Csmith

I installed the new thermo, but after 15-20 mins running still did not open. Vehicle was not running hot so it seems. Usual white steam/smoke but when warm and driven is clear.

Heater core is not blocked due to good cabin heat, but not sure about heater valve or other possible passages.

How long should the 3.0 run until the thermo(192) should open. I believe all the airpockets are out, I will verify again. Upper seems hot and you can hear the boiling sound.

Any ideas?

The last post showed a pic of a part I thought was related, but that was the ac condensor fan resistor - I don't think it's related to this especially in winter.

Marc

What makes you think it's not opening?

playswithfire

Hey C:
I had a similiar problem with my daughter's car yesterday (bmw, not a yota, yea, sorry) Anyway, after flushing and filling the cooling system, the upper radiator hose was hot, but no hot air from the heater, and the lower radiator hose was cool.

I scratched my head and figured I bunged something up with the thermostat or water pump, or had an airlock. Hoping it was an airlock, I disconnected the upper radiator hose and filled the radiator from the upper hose, instead filling from the overflow tank like before. Sure enough, problem solved, it was an airlock, and everything is OK now.

If you haven't already, you might want to see if you can get any more coolant in (and air out). Good luck.
John

Csmith

I think problem is solved - at least the overheating and thermo not opening.

Airlock was the reason for not opening. After that new thermo seems to be opening now.

Still have the wierd slosh noises of water flow when you accelerate. This is related to my no heat from the vents just before all this happened. Maybe the heater valves are stuck or inoperable or air in the heater core lines - almost like some blockage preventing full flow through the pipes.

Works ok, but sure does sound funny now. Like slurrping back and forth.