mommucked

I know Hysteer is superior, but won't a DDL allow my lifted trucks left/right return to stockish specs w a 4" lift. I'm looking at a used one for $40. Don't know what brand, may be for 5" lift though. Will it work on a 3.5-4" lift?. This is a DD that gets abused now and then, no Rockcrawler. Any replies are welcome.

creswellhick

i have a 6 inch lift and no problems with steering wats so ever what are your probs

mommucked

Won't turn as sharp to the right w the lifts pull on the stock rod. I assume the lift one is longer? to move the steering arm back to the middle of it's range w wheels straight?

mommucked

I bought it and a tourqe rod bracket.

peow130

It's too bad nobody has found a way to convert the drag link in these to the chebby style TRE found on those push-pull steering systems.

mommucked

The aftermarket link is longer than the solid stock one, and the length looks to be adjustable. It is also robust!

southernZ

I need to address mine....My drag link is rubbing my u-bolt. I have 3" springs up front. I assume a dropped drag link is the only remedy?

rokblok

iTrader: (1)

HySteer will remedy it also....

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Yes, cross over steering (swap) or flipping the ball on the steering j-arm or if it is mild rubbing, OME sells some flat sided u-bolts for the front axle. A dropped d-link may or may not help. It will put the lower end more horizontal due to the S-shape of the link, but I found my old dropped drag link ends were fatter than the OEM drag link. So you gain some on the better angle but lose some on the size:

slacker

iTrader: (1)

flip the ball stud



and buy new tie rod ends and drag link ends ..

how 2 and more on the topic http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=33240.0

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4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Note that you'll either need a dropped drag link or a modified stock drag link to do this. Why? Because the stock drag link ends won't match up to the ball studs after you flip the lower one. The dropped drag links have the adjustable rod ends, so it is a simple matter to spin one end around to line up. Also the S-shape of the dropped link helps keep the lower rod end parallel to the top of the steering arm. With the stock fixed drag link, you end up with an angle on the ball stud and as the front suspension droops, that angle increases and if you have enough wheel travel, that rod end will max. out it's angle and then start twisting/pulling on the J-arm and that is typically what stresses them and causes them to fail as some point in time.

mommucked

Well I finally got around to installing it tonight and It definately improved my steering w a 3.5' lift. It steers smoother and more precise and bump steer and wandering are about gone on any paved roads. I adjusted length to match between the 2 grease nipples on each rod and the steering arm is perfectly aligned w the stops on the PS unit going straight ahead. Now I just have to turn my steering wheel rightside up as it's perfectly upside down now!!! The draglink came off a truck w 7.5 lift and was adjusted way too small for it or my stock rod length I think the guy just put it on out of the box. Also super genious only had the side bolts installed on the torque rod raised bracket I also got w the deal. It was not welded either making it about useless for it's purpose IMO. I passed on the S shaped double cheap heim joint adjustable torque rod. I used the cups and springs etc. from my rod, the ones in the drop draglink were ungreased, rusted and shot to ˟˟˟˟. Had to heat one end of the rod end to unscrew the plug to get it off the salvage truck, and the rod itself to adjust it. It cleaned up well though. I'll add the bracket soon..................... Put on the bracket and it helped too! torque steer is much less when standing on the brakes now. and bumps in the road seem smoother than before. I have cycled the suspension and swing of the DDL, and It has plenty of clearance from the U bolts, my springs are pretty stiff though.