Last edit by: IB Advertising
See related guides and technical advice from our community experts:
- Toyota Tacoma How to Bleed Air out of Power Steering Pump<br>Step by step instructions for do-it-yourself repairs.
Bleeding power steering pump.
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Montana
Posts: 79
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Bleeding power steering pump.
So, seeing as how I had much better access to my ps pump while doing my timing belt/water pump, I deceided to replace it as well(leaked like a seive). The instructions that came w/the pump talked about bleeding the system after the replacement. I have read a few threads on Yotatech about pump R&R's, but never anything mentioned about bleeding the system afterwords. Also, checked a Chilton's manual, and it said that ,trucks equiped with rear abs, also needed to have the brake system bled as well after replacing the ps pump. The instuctions were somewhat vague concerning this. Can anyone help me out with this?
Regards, Rick
Regards, Rick
#2
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Your power steering is kinda self bleeding.
***By this time you would have all ready started vehicle and cycled left to right on the stands just checking for leaks at least I do . Check fluid for level and that it is not real foamy .
Remove stands turn back and forth lock to lock a few times
Check fluid top off if needed unless I have been doing it wrong forever that should do the trick
Why would the Brakes have anything to do with the power steering pump.
I have never heard of that and it makes no sense .
There should never be a mixing of brake fluid with anything!!!
Are there Brake lines that need to be removed to get the pump out?? That chiltons may have neglected to mention.
***By this time you would have all ready started vehicle and cycled left to right on the stands just checking for leaks at least I do . Check fluid for level and that it is not real foamy .
Remove stands turn back and forth lock to lock a few times
Check fluid top off if needed unless I have been doing it wrong forever that should do the trick
Why would the Brakes have anything to do with the power steering pump.
I have never heard of that and it makes no sense .
There should never be a mixing of brake fluid with anything!!!
Are there Brake lines that need to be removed to get the pump out?? That chiltons may have neglected to mention.
Last edited by wyoming9; 11-29-2011 at 12:29 AM. Reason: more wisdom
#3
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Peoria, AZ
Posts: 504
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So, seeing as how I had much better access to my ps pump while doing my timing belt/water pump, I deceided to replace it as well(leaked like a seive). The instructions that came w/the pump talked about bleeding the system after the replacement. I have read a few threads on Yotatech about pump R&R's, but never anything mentioned about bleeding the system afterwords. Also, checked a Chilton's manual, and it said that ,trucks equiped with rear abs, also needed to have the brake system bled as well after replacing the ps pump. The instuctions were somewhat vague concerning this. Can anyone help me out with this?
Regards, Rick
Regards, Rick
I made the same comment not too long ago and was rightfully corrected with this.
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1990-1995...e/absactua.pdf
Mine is an '87 which is pre-rear ABS...
Last edited by angrybob; 11-29-2011 at 10:49 AM.
#5
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
I see what they did having never seen one in person it still makes no sense.
They are using the pressure from the power steering pump to supply a constant pressure when needed to the rear anti-lock brakes.
For us people unable to do our own braking .
After looking again this being the FSM of course you would need to check the pressure to make sure the pump pressure is what it needs to be. If you check the brake pressure of course you need to bleed the brakes.
The drawings that were posted the power steering fluid does not co mingle with brake fluid so unless your rear anti lock brakes are the problem.
Just bleed your power steering after the pump replacement or rebuilding.
The Haynes book never mentions this at all go figure.
They are using the pressure from the power steering pump to supply a constant pressure when needed to the rear anti-lock brakes.
For us people unable to do our own braking .
After looking again this being the FSM of course you would need to check the pressure to make sure the pump pressure is what it needs to be. If you check the brake pressure of course you need to bleed the brakes.
The drawings that were posted the power steering fluid does not co mingle with brake fluid so unless your rear anti lock brakes are the problem.
Just bleed your power steering after the pump replacement or rebuilding.
The Haynes book never mentions this at all go figure.
Last edited by wyoming9; 11-29-2011 at 02:31 PM. Reason: more wisdom
#7
I will be putting on a new high pressure side of the PS unit tomorrow on my 93 after I pick it up at NAPA and I too have done PS pump replacement and hose replacements in the past on lots of makes and models and never heard of PS bleeding till now, I do what they said above is the procedure I have used and still do. Unlike brakes that don't have a circulating pump they need to be bleed while the PS unit does have one and don't need bleed since it continually pumps fluid while engine running and it does take a while to burn up a pumps once it uses up all the remaining fluid in it, but will very much so survive long enough to go from starting engine to pouring fluid in reservoir and watch the bubbles come up for a while, and I check it the next day also...
Trending Topics
#8
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Peoria, AZ
Posts: 504
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I turned the wheel left to right 4-5 times with the I/G ON but engine OFF before doing it with the engine on. The engine OFF turns are done on stands. FSM says to do it with engine on (no mention of engine off) at 1000RPM 4-5 times.
#9
best way to minimize burning up the pump would be to have front wheels off the ground. fill reservoir up. dont have engine running. turn wheel lock to lock a few times while topping of the reservoir.
another trick i do at work because time is money. i fill reservoir up, start the car for a few seconds or till the pump makes noise. quickly turn off. top reservoir up and repeat. usually takes two quick starts and i can leave it running (as long as the pump isnt whining too loud or at all) keep it running with cap off till you dont see much foam left. done
another trick i do at work because time is money. i fill reservoir up, start the car for a few seconds or till the pump makes noise. quickly turn off. top reservoir up and repeat. usually takes two quick starts and i can leave it running (as long as the pump isnt whining too loud or at all) keep it running with cap off till you dont see much foam left. done
#12
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Montana
Posts: 79
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I ran across the recommended torque value...32ft lbs. I fired up her up for a few seconds, no noise no bubbling or foaming, started her again, took wheels lock to lock, added about 2-3- oz. of ATF. No more leaks.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post