cameron110

It turned out like this:



I have been happy with it and because it evolved though lots of looking at the collective knowledge here prior to the install I figured what I did might help someone else figure out what they want to do. So here is a rundown of how I got there.

I ended up doing what I did because:

-I wanted it to sound good, at 70mph with the windows down
-I wanted the rear roll bar space for a sub (eventually)
-I didn't want to lose sound quality by having my rear pair behind the back seat
-I wanted to be able to switch back to the stock parts if I didn't like it, no no chopping or major modifications to OEM stuff
-It had to be a reasonable total cost, (I would rather have $800 in my dif than my stereo)

As I mentioned, I did want it to sound good so I started with a pair of Pioneer TS-D1702R which reviewed particularly well but still fit the budget

Then it was time to enlist some help to figure out the best spot for them after pulling out a bunch of stuff.



The old thin fiber board wouldn't be strong enough to hang the fairly heavy speakers without LOTS of rattling so I grabbed a few scraps of commercial grade 1/4" underlayment and went to work with a drill and jig saw



Lots of repeated measuring and test fitting ended up with this



A quick stop at the local specialty fastener store in town on the way home from work netted some stuff like this:



The speaker mount screws hit the metal frame so they got trimmed back a bit



Then put the seats back in to be sure they will still fold with the new speaker location before getting too carried away



Then run some wire



On the drivers side the wiring harness makes it a bit too tight so a little persuasion (of the variety involving a hammer) made just enough room.



Since you can see it in the shot above we may was well mention spending some time with some Peel and Seal to cut down on road noise and vibration



Then get the other side put in and try it out for a week or two which led to the the discovery that the rubber well nuts (used where the threaded clips wouldn't fit) popped loose after a brisk run down a wash-boarded gravel road.

So it quick stop by MD Metrics led to having one of these in the tool box



I'm not sure how I lived with out it for so long. Rivet nuts and a setter are a very cool little tool that lets you put a stout threaded insert into a blind sheet metal location. If you want one go here http://mdmetric.com/prod/rivetnuttool/rivetnuttool.htm

Now with the much stronger hangers it is time to try to get some upholstery on without too much "helper" hair in the glue.


The keen observer will also note that at this point it was time for refreshments as well.

Put the panels in with all the trim



Then fight the seats back in and it's done



If you have specific questions let me know and I'll see what other details I can remember.

adammtb

Just grabbed some scraps eh? Like from the dumpster across the street! Hope the motor is running well.

cameron110

sometimes it's good to live near the warehouse for a carpet and flooring distributor

Yeah it's running great, I'm about 3500 mi into it. It has really smoothed out and is pulling nicely.

Thanks again for making the haul up to help with the build

Outsane

nice work!

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

That looks really clean!

Any specific reason you left the gab in the new panels in the footwell?

Can you share any more info/photos of that rivet tool? does that basically insert a threaded cylinder into an existing/drilled hole, and then compress it so that it stays, leaving a threaded fastener held in place? Pretty cool!! I want to replace my rear plastic panels with diamond plate some day but always wondered how I'd secure them - this looks promising!

cameron110

that photo was taken before the last piece of trim went in, on my truck there is a thin molded plastic kick plate there. Good eye, it's back in now.


That tool is phenomenal for an application like that. I think there was a link in the original post but just in case here is where I got it.

http://mdmetric.com/prod/rivetnuttool/rivetnuttool.htm

There are a couple animated GIFs on the vendors site that show how it works, as well as write ups and downloadable PDF instructions.

From what you wrote it sounds like you get the concept already.

The M6 Aluminum Rivet Nuts p/n ATA2-610 fit in a hole ever so slightly larger than the ones in the body for the OEM plastic clips, about 30 seconds with a rat tail file worked better than trying to drill it with the bit that came with the kit. I also put a dab of paint around the hole while I was installing the rivet nut to seal up the bare metal edge I had created.

There are a great many tools on the market to install a rivet nut but IMHO this is the best for occasional use, it is cheap, super simple and therefor very unlikely to break or wear out and it can be used for a wide range of rivet nut sizes (metric or SAE) simply by swapping out the compression bolt and possibly adding a shim for the smaller ones.

The only downshot is that it takes about 2 min to put in each rivet nut with this tool. No problem at all for the home mechanic but if you were using it in a shop where time is $$$ then you would probably want to shell out the $200 - $800 for the pro-grade tool.

here is a blurry (sorry) shot of the tool with an un-used rivet nut on the compression bolt and you can see an installed rivet nut complete with dab of paint there in the sheet metal

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the extra background on it - makes complete sense now!

clok

iTrader: (2)

i just started this project and i wanna post sum pictures but when i try to upload a picture its telling the file size exceeds something any one know how to make the file size of the picture iam trying to upload smaller ?

cameron110

You can shrink them with any number of photo editing software but if you have them somewhere else online (picassa, snapfish, facebook, or my personal favorite smugmug) then you can insert them using the instructions listed in FAQ section of YotaTech:

https://www.yotatech.com/faq.php?faq...b3_attachments

How do I add an image to a post?

If you have uploaded an image as an attachment, you can click the arrow next to the 'Attachment Icon' and select it from the list. This will be inserted into your post and can be located where you want it displayed.

To include an image that is not uploaded as an attachment and is located on another website, you can do so by copying the full URL to the image, (not the page on which the image is located), and either pressing the 'Insert Image' icon or by typing [img] before the URL and [/img] after it, ensuring that you do not have any spaces before or after the URL of the image. You can insert pictures from your albums (?) in this way too.

malteserunner

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for posting this. It will help me with my speaker install in the near future. I'll be ordering one of those tools too!

clok

iTrader: (2)

Thanks i'll give it another try when I get home from work .

clok

iTrader: (2)

well i had a little time to start my install this past saturday , i got the dyna mat in and the oem panels off, so i just need to cut the 1/4 mdf boards i picked up at home depot and order that rivet tool and hopefully be done by next sunday.

clok

iTrader: (2)

anybody know how to take these taps off kinda had to take a break when i ran into these , they hold the plastic trim to the door panel and the side pockets on the sr5's

Outsane

I would use a dremel or a a set of dykes... and find another way to attach later

cameron110

My truck is DLX so no pockets on mine, so I didn't have to deal with it. But I'm with outsane on this one, cut them and figure out some other way to install them in the new panels. One possible idea would be these



tee nut

RAD4Runner

I'm with Philbert; Clean Install!
Thanks for sharing, and the reference to "Peel and Seal" - speaking of bang for the buck when in comes to sound-proofing!!

RMA

looks good man .. but doesnt the seat hit the grill , i had mine like that and would have to be careful not to tear the grill out , so i ended up removing them and putting some grills off a ford windstar. now i have some pioneer components back there and the second pics have some 6x9's

clok

iTrader: (2)

Well ordered the rivet tool this morning since its coming from maryland and iam in california I'm gonna have to wait about 5 days for it to arrive , and wont have my 6 1/2 speakers til friday , i'am guessing my project wont be done til late next week.

As for those tabs are concerend i'm gonna stop by a shop that does car interiors and ask them whats the best way to remove them and if they got some more I can use put them back cause the inserts that
Go thru the panels are pretty thin so if I cut the tabs off I will be cutting the inserts of the plastic pieces , but I will find out tomorrow , then I can proceed with cutting the panels out.

RMA

^^dude those clips are just some metal washers type deal ,they just pop off ..when you remove them you will bend them , you can flatten them and re use them

clok

iTrader: (2)

I was wondering if you have any rattling from the stock panels and did you screw the speakers into the sheet metal behind the panel ? I didnt think the stock panel would hold speakers.