87 4runner 22re running rich
#1
87 4runner 22re running rich
So here's the scoop. I got this track and drove a little. had some blow by so decided to rebuild the motor. After tearing it apart I ended up replacing the pistons and the cam. So I have all new bearings and baskets and everything has been rebuilt and remachined. I put it all back together and now its running so rich it is puking black smoke. The plugs are burnt from this. I haven't driven it and won't until this problem is fixed. I have looked at the fsm and can't figure anything out. The cold start injector time switch is good. And the computer isn't throwing any codes so I'm at a loss. can anyone help me?
#3
Did not service the injectors as they were fine. I did not have this problem till after rebuilding it. the cold start does not leak. I put in new fuel pump and filter I have not messed with the tps other then voltage testing as described in the fsm. U can feel and here every injector firing properly. When I put it back together I lube the injector rings before installing as normal. I have replaced the afm and it is testing normal and like I said before there are no codes being thrown. I don't get it.
#4
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
First just unplug the CSI wires from the CSI at the manifold. Are you sure its Black and not Blue from oil?
Second check the O2 sensor, it can be broken and still not throw codes. You may have broken it during the pull. Chassis harness plug is under the drivers seat. R&R seat to save yourself trouble.
Your plugs can only be fouled black with soot, or wet with gas. They cannot be burned, I have drag cars the run rich just to make sure they do not go lean, cause thats really bad and will melt spark plugs. Wet plugs are bad too because the gas washes the oil from the bores.
Did you touch the pressure regulator on the fuel rail? Maybe you cranked the pressure up?
Make sure all hoses and vacuum lines are right & tight, one of the vacuum lines (VSV) controls fuel pressure at startup.
Also did you use chrome or moly rings on the rebuild?
Second check the O2 sensor, it can be broken and still not throw codes. You may have broken it during the pull. Chassis harness plug is under the drivers seat. R&R seat to save yourself trouble.
Your plugs can only be fouled black with soot, or wet with gas. They cannot be burned, I have drag cars the run rich just to make sure they do not go lean, cause thats really bad and will melt spark plugs. Wet plugs are bad too because the gas washes the oil from the bores.
Did you touch the pressure regulator on the fuel rail? Maybe you cranked the pressure up?
Make sure all hoses and vacuum lines are right & tight, one of the vacuum lines (VSV) controls fuel pressure at startup.
Also did you use chrome or moly rings on the rebuild?
#5
Registered User
iTrader: (6)
First just unplug the CSI wires from the CSI at the manifold. Are you sure its Black and not Blue from oil?
Second check the O2 sensor, it can be broken and still not throw codes. You may have broken it during the pull. Chassis harness plug is under the drivers seat. R&R seat to save yourself trouble.
Your plugs can only be fouled black with soot, or wet with gas. They cannot be burned, I have drag cars the run rich just to make sure they do not go lean, cause thats really bad and will melt spark plugs. Wet plugs are bad too because the gas washes the oil from the bores.
Did you touch the pressure regulator on the fuel rail? Maybe you cranked the pressure up?
Make sure all hoses and vacuum lines are right & tight, one of the vacuum lines (VSV) controls fuel pressure at startup.
Also did you use chrome or moly rings on the rebuild?
Second check the O2 sensor, it can be broken and still not throw codes. You may have broken it during the pull. Chassis harness plug is under the drivers seat. R&R seat to save yourself trouble.
Your plugs can only be fouled black with soot, or wet with gas. They cannot be burned, I have drag cars the run rich just to make sure they do not go lean, cause thats really bad and will melt spark plugs. Wet plugs are bad too because the gas washes the oil from the bores.
Did you touch the pressure regulator on the fuel rail? Maybe you cranked the pressure up?
Make sure all hoses and vacuum lines are right & tight, one of the vacuum lines (VSV) controls fuel pressure at startup.
Also did you use chrome or moly rings on the rebuild?
#6
Standard issue injector rings from schucks. I will check all that stuff thanks for your help. If anyone's got other ideas me know. And the plugs have soot on them. And yes I'm sure its black smoke not blue. I'm not burning oil for sure. I was originally then I replaced the valve seels and no more leak.
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#10
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Location: Denver, Colorado
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Unfortunately I don't have a solution for you but I would suggest proof reading what you write before posting. I had a hard time following what you were trying to say. Good luck!
#15
Registered User
iTrader: (6)
You've covered most of the bases that i start to check automatically. X2 on the o2 sensor. My only other guess (yes just a guess) could be a leaky or faulty injector. Can you take a couple of pics of the plugs for us? Might give some more direction. When you do find the answer please make sure to post up the steps it took to solve the problem. I'm rooting for ya. If you have yet to do so start trouble shooting via the fsm. http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/
#16
Registered User
Try and reset the efi system by unplugging the efi circuit breaker in the fuse box. Then make sure your timing is correct, both cam and ignition.
The only other thing would be to see if the CSI time switch is operational. There is a procedure for testing it in the FSM and on 4crawler's sute. It might be staying on and dumping fuel into the system.
The only other thing would be to see if the CSI time switch is operational. There is a procedure for testing it in the FSM and on 4crawler's sute. It might be staying on and dumping fuel into the system.
#17
Registered User
iTrader: (5)
Might have missed it, and I'm not sure if it's possible.... but >>>>>>
Could his Fuel Pressure Regulator be toast? Maybe the Damper? These will NEVER throw codes.... and I THOUGHT they could cause a rich condition.
Only other thing on the "too much fuel" end, AGAIN, I'M ONLY GUESSING, not sure it's possible, lol)>>> Injector Resistor. I'm not sure a bad one would result in more fuel....just too much voltage(12v instead of 5v).
PS> I, too, would test the AFM, ....if it's not allowing enough air, MAYBE it could cause a rich condition? Eventually, YOU WILL get codes, because that type condition will QUICKLY screw up the 02.
Wishin you the best, man! Sorry for your issues.
Could his Fuel Pressure Regulator be toast? Maybe the Damper? These will NEVER throw codes.... and I THOUGHT they could cause a rich condition.
Only other thing on the "too much fuel" end, AGAIN, I'M ONLY GUESSING, not sure it's possible, lol)>>> Injector Resistor. I'm not sure a bad one would result in more fuel....just too much voltage(12v instead of 5v).
PS> I, too, would test the AFM, ....if it's not allowing enough air, MAYBE it could cause a rich condition? Eventually, YOU WILL get codes, because that type condition will QUICKLY screw up the 02.
Wishin you the best, man! Sorry for your issues.
Last edited by ChefYota4x4; 07-03-2011 at 09:49 PM.
#18
Registered User
iTrader: (5)
Try and reset the efi system by unplugging the efi circuit breaker in the fuse box. Then make sure your timing is correct, both cam and ignition.
The only other thing would be to see if the CSI time switch is operational. There is a procedure for testing it in the FSM and on 4crawler's sute. It might be staying on and dumping fuel into the system.
The only other thing would be to see if the CSI time switch is operational. There is a procedure for testing it in the FSM and on 4crawler's sute. It might be staying on and dumping fuel into the system.
#19
So I have tried disconnecting the CSI after its started and idling and it makes no difference. I have replaced the O2 sensor already as it threw a code for that. I don't know what else to do now.