hesitation during acceleration
#1
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hesitation during acceleration
hi everyone, here is the issue. About a month ago, i went out of town (left truck at home) for a week, and went to work the next day, the truck started hesitating at acceleration, like sputtering around 2500 rpms. if i would give gas it get worse, and if ease up it will make its somewhat smooth way up the rpms... Now the thing is that it does not do it all the time..once and a while only, and it seems that happens when the engine is warming up...
Well it happens and it goes away like that.
ALSO, this happens ALL the time: i get like turbo lag at about 3500 rpms... very weird... like its noticeable... like then engine gets a boost from an invisible turbo i don't have.... Definitely it means im not getting the right power under those rpms..
anyways.. i have no codes, adjusted tps i got a few months ago, swapped AFM for a spare one, and most of all: NEW egr valve (which i tought it would fix the issue.... since i thought it was staying open...)
any help would be appreciated.... Its a 22re by he way
Well it happens and it goes away like that.
ALSO, this happens ALL the time: i get like turbo lag at about 3500 rpms... very weird... like its noticeable... like then engine gets a boost from an invisible turbo i don't have.... Definitely it means im not getting the right power under those rpms..
anyways.. i have no codes, adjusted tps i got a few months ago, swapped AFM for a spare one, and most of all: NEW egr valve (which i tought it would fix the issue.... since i thought it was staying open...)
any help would be appreciated.... Its a 22re by he way
#2
I had something similar a while back on my 22re. The engine would lurch violently during acceleration. The harder the acceleration, the harder the jerk. It turns out the #2 spark cable was hanging by a thread. New cables fixed the problem.
#6
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have you put new fuel in yet? ethanol sucks and doesnt last very long, if i let my dodge sit for more than 3 days its spuders until warmed up every time until i get some new fuel...just a thought
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o yeah, its been over a month now... i have a k&n filter, not cold air. Also i forgot to mention that i replaced fuel filter a year ago. Could it be fuel pump? how do u check fuel pressure?
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#8
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I'd be interested if you find a solution. Mine behaves the exact same way. It's a dog in the lower RPM then just takes off after a certain higher RPM (no tach.)
I too have replace fuel filter, air filter, plugs, wires, cap, button. AFM and TPS both read to factory spec. Haven't found any vacuum leaks and EGR works fine.
Wish I had an answer because it would make accelerating up the hill from my house a heck of a lot easier than waiting for the invisible turbo to kick in.
I too have replace fuel filter, air filter, plugs, wires, cap, button. AFM and TPS both read to factory spec. Haven't found any vacuum leaks and EGR works fine.
Wish I had an answer because it would make accelerating up the hill from my house a heck of a lot easier than waiting for the invisible turbo to kick in.
#9
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consider running a can of seafoam through the gas tank. Get a can of seafoam from a local auto parts store, go to a gas station, put about half a tank in, put in the seafoam (via a funnel, or depress the gas valve with your finger) then finish filling up your tank. Let that run through and see what happens.
Just bought a 4Runner (that sat for about a year) that is doing the same thing, and the Seafoam has already helped some. When I burn off the rest of this tank I guess I'll know for sure. Just a suggestion from the junior man on the account.
Just bought a 4Runner (that sat for about a year) that is doing the same thing, and the Seafoam has already helped some. When I burn off the rest of this tank I guess I'll know for sure. Just a suggestion from the junior man on the account.
#10
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Could be low fuel pressure due to bad pressure regulator or pump, clogged injectors failing to inject enough fuel when you open up the throttle, or weak spark from bad coil or corroded distrib cap...
Seafoam in the gas tank doesn't do anything at all. It may help when fed into the intake, but it's ineffective as an injector cleaner. Only in-the-tank products that work contain polyether amine, and the only two products remaining that contain PEA are Red Line SI-1 Complete Fuel System Cleaner and CRC's "Guaranteed to Pass Emissions Test Formula". Red Line's contains almost 50% PEA and CRC's about 35%.
Seafoam in the gas tank doesn't do anything at all. It may help when fed into the intake, but it's ineffective as an injector cleaner. Only in-the-tank products that work contain polyether amine, and the only two products remaining that contain PEA are Red Line SI-1 Complete Fuel System Cleaner and CRC's "Guaranteed to Pass Emissions Test Formula". Red Line's contains almost 50% PEA and CRC's about 35%.
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well i know its not the coil because i have two good ones and it does not change a thing.....coil is good....how do you check fuel pressure regulator?? or pump??
#13
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Make sure you don't have a small exhaust leak before the o2 sensor. If you do it will suck in just a little bit of unregulated air in-between the exhaust pulses and fool the o2 sensor. Which will not through a code. I have had this issue on all my toyotas and seen many people spend a lot of time and money trying to diagnose the same problem only to find out they needed to have their manifold milled flat and a new gasket. If that is ur problem, use stage 8 fasteners, and retighten after the first warm up. Then check your down pipe doughnut gaskets every 1000 miles until they seat. Later.
Last edited by TinMan; 07-08-2011 at 08:42 PM.
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thanks for the reply! i feel like i have somewhat that issues as well. Here is the Thing, i have worse symptoms now: yesterday it happened like that, when i drive arround the block, it sputters so BAD that i can even get pass second. As soon as i give throttle it hesitates so bad that it can't accelerate... It feels like a air filter clogged....Not in this case... Also rpms dropped to 600s at idle...
The other funny thing is that when i jumped Fp and B+ terminal to check the fuel pump, it does not kick in....but when i fire the truck i can hear it working....?? i know the circuit realay behind the glove box is like new! at least it looks like new..... thanks for any help...
The other funny thing is that when i jumped Fp and B+ terminal to check the fuel pump, it does not kick in....but when i fire the truck i can hear it working....?? i know the circuit realay behind the glove box is like new! at least it looks like new..... thanks for any help...
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I have the same symptom with the " invisible turbo " on mine. At about 3500 it kicks in. Everything is fresh, but i can't help but think that the TPS is retarded or advanced just a hair out of spec that's making this happen. I followed the 4crawler steps to the tee, but there is still something eluding me. I hope that someone has fornd the solution and will share it. Good luck all!
#18
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well, it is easy to jump to conclusions when things go wrong. It seems like the worse scenarios are the cause of trouble, but the other day i was tweeking arround and noticed loose ground at the battery terminal. button it up good and solved the BAD sputtering. i have not driven the truck enough to see if it helped with the Invisible turbo....ill post later... thanks
#19
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My "invisible turbo" issue was MOST DEFINITELY my bad TPS. I would be taking off and it was just a DOG, then it'd hit around 2200rpm and BAT OUT OF HELL! It seemed ok in higher rpm, but then, it just got worse. Replaced the TPS, and still had SOME issues, but after the third try on the TPS adjusting on 4crawlers cheap tricks, I noticed a couple things I was not doing EXACTLY right... worked fine after that.
Takes 5 minutes to test the TPS, 20-30 minutes to remove it and then test/adjust it on the bench, another 20 to put it back on. Worth a shot, right?
Far as the fuel..... I HAVE purchased VERY BAD fuel a couple times where it just seemed like the truck was on it's last leg! Eventually flushed it out and voila, the problem went away(sputtering, failing to idle smoothly, even falling off the map at points on the freeway).
Fuel filter MOST DEFINITELY can cause issues that seem to progressively get worse......... BUT, since you messed with the ground and that seemed to solve a large portion of your problem.... Either it's just coincidence or it's a couple things going on. Bad ground can effect EVERYTHING, including spark, signals to sensors, AFM, TPS, all things can go wacky without proper ground.
Even had an occasion where a failing Secondary Coil gave me MAJOR drama. Replaced it, VOILA, once again! lol.
Best wishes, hope that bad ground solved your dilemma!
Takes 5 minutes to test the TPS, 20-30 minutes to remove it and then test/adjust it on the bench, another 20 to put it back on. Worth a shot, right?
Far as the fuel..... I HAVE purchased VERY BAD fuel a couple times where it just seemed like the truck was on it's last leg! Eventually flushed it out and voila, the problem went away(sputtering, failing to idle smoothly, even falling off the map at points on the freeway).
Fuel filter MOST DEFINITELY can cause issues that seem to progressively get worse......... BUT, since you messed with the ground and that seemed to solve a large portion of your problem.... Either it's just coincidence or it's a couple things going on. Bad ground can effect EVERYTHING, including spark, signals to sensors, AFM, TPS, all things can go wacky without proper ground.
Even had an occasion where a failing Secondary Coil gave me MAJOR drama. Replaced it, VOILA, once again! lol.
Best wishes, hope that bad ground solved your dilemma!
Last edited by ChefYota4x4; 07-19-2011 at 08:17 PM.
#20
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you just described EXACTLY what happened to my truck few months ago. I had brand new OEM cap, wires, tried diferent spark plugs, adjusted TPS even tried a diff MAP. It was the O2 sensor. I replaced it with Denso unit from sparkplugs.com and it was fixed. Runs like new. Try the O2 Sensor.