3.0 starter location and removal.....
#1
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3.0 starter location and removal.....
The starter in my '93 3.0 pickup has finally crapped out on me! I was looking through this thread...
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...issues-221046/
Someone responded that the starter is located behind the oil filter??? I know it is on a 22RE, that would put the location of the starter on the driver side.
Where exaclty is it, and what's the best way to reach it? I've read about an access panel in the fender, where exactly is that?
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...issues-221046/
Someone responded that the starter is located behind the oil filter??? I know it is on a 22RE, that would put the location of the starter on the driver side.
Where exaclty is it, and what's the best way to reach it? I've read about an access panel in the fender, where exactly is that?
#2
Here's what it looks like with the starter access panel out of the way(and possibly with a body lift installed, looks like it to me anyway). It's located, on the passenger's side BTW, near the center of the pic here.
Last edited by MudHippy; 10-25-2010 at 05:59 PM.
#3
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It's a total PITA to get out, but piece of cake otherwise to put new contacts in it. You can get them from your local parts store for about $11.
You need about 6 socket extensions to reach the: 1) rear bolt, and 2) front bolt. The front bolt is accessible from between the front valance holes & the rear, possibly with a swivel, from underneath & several extensions.
DO NOT buy the cheap-@$$ Advance/NAPA/etc. lifetime warranty starter. Keep your original & replace the contacts. use a Dremel to GENTLY buff out any pits in the plunger.
You need about 6 socket extensions to reach the: 1) rear bolt, and 2) front bolt. The front bolt is accessible from between the front valance holes & the rear, possibly with a swivel, from underneath & several extensions.
DO NOT buy the cheap-@$$ Advance/NAPA/etc. lifetime warranty starter. Keep your original & replace the contacts. use a Dremel to GENTLY buff out any pits in the plunger.
Last edited by TNRabbit; 10-25-2010 at 06:15 PM.
#4
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yes It is a PITA to get out. 92Toy can confirm it took me about 30-45 minutes on his to get it out. FYI it will come out in that same hole that is pictured above if you get those wires and other lines out of the way by moving them aside.
#5
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The starter in my '93 3.0 pickup has finally crapped out on me! I was looking through this thread...
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...issues-221046/
Someone responded that the starter is located behind the oil filter??? I know it is on a 22RE, that would put the location of the starter on the driver side.
Where exaclty is it, and what's the best way to reach it? I've read about an access panel in the fender, where exactly is that?
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...issues-221046/
Someone responded that the starter is located behind the oil filter??? I know it is on a 22RE, that would put the location of the starter on the driver side.
Where exaclty is it, and what's the best way to reach it? I've read about an access panel in the fender, where exactly is that?
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...eresTheStarter
#6
fished mine out the passenger fender well, remove the stabilizer to reach the front bolt, becarful with the clip etc.
30 to 45 min thats got to be a record iwas still using normal cuss words at that time frame, goes in easier than it comes out
here is my rebuild link, sorry no location or removal pics but good rebuild pics
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...er-fix-216099/
30 to 45 min thats got to be a record iwas still using normal cuss words at that time frame, goes in easier than it comes out
here is my rebuild link, sorry no location or removal pics but good rebuild pics
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...er-fix-216099/
Last edited by REDYOTA; 10-25-2010 at 07:45 PM.
#7
Mine was clicking, so i pulled it out to take to kragen to check out, it was fine, swapped out the neg cables and still clicking, put a new battery and wholla, damn, sometimes the most obvious things just slips the mind, so with a 3 inch bodylift was not that bad taking out the starter.
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#9
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Not sure if it's still the case on the 93, but on the 89 3VZE with manual tranny there's a possible gotcha. On the early trucks there's one bolt that goes from the front, through the starter flange, and into soft aluminum threads on the bell housing. It's near the top, IIRC. Problem is, on the early trucks anyway, Toyota used a too-short bolt that only grabs about half of these threads. When I changed the starter on mine, I found the previous owner had stripped those threads. I've read of others who did the same thing. On mine, I just replaced the bolt with a longer one that was able to engage the unstripped threads further in. Suggest doing that even if the threads are not yet stripped on yours, if your truck has the same situation.
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Update-
FYI for anyone trying this in the future.... If you remove the access panel in the passenger side fenderwell, you CAN remove the starter without moving the clutch slave cylinder, or jacking the passenger side of the motor.
I acccoplished the romoval and install by using a short 14mm socket, then a wobbly, then 2 long extensions. Pull the top bolt facing rearward at the bellhousing, and the lower bolt facing foreward at the starter. There is a positive terminal wire that must be disconnescted as well as a small plug.
The starter can be removed through the access opening if you move the engine harness to the side, it seems like it won't work, but it will. My truck is completely stock with no body lift, and even has the A/C lines coming from the compressor which slighly get in the way. It can be done.
FYI for anyone trying this in the future.... If you remove the access panel in the passenger side fenderwell, you CAN remove the starter without moving the clutch slave cylinder, or jacking the passenger side of the motor.
I acccoplished the romoval and install by using a short 14mm socket, then a wobbly, then 2 long extensions. Pull the top bolt facing rearward at the bellhousing, and the lower bolt facing foreward at the starter. There is a positive terminal wire that must be disconnescted as well as a small plug.
The starter can be removed through the access opening if you move the engine harness to the side, it seems like it won't work, but it will. My truck is completely stock with no body lift, and even has the A/C lines coming from the compressor which slighly get in the way. It can be done.
#12
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yup i agree it is a 20 min job to get out and a 45 min job to put it back in on my 91 remove the pass side wheel then get in there through the access panell dont forget to disconnect the battery or you will have a sparks show !!! try to get a friend to help it will cut the time in half . the starter contacts wear down they are copper i get mine from online toyota of dallas $20 for oem my starter cranks like a mo-fo now id say replace them every 5 years for a totally reliable system
Last edited by mick cassidy; 03-31-2011 at 08:41 PM.
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