Auto Transmission shifts too early
#1
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Auto Transmission shifts too early
I have owned my 85 4 runner for about a year now and I am in love with it. I got her with 95k on the odo and now have 105k. Since I have owned it the exceleration has been terrible. The trans shifts too early and I just can't seem to get in the torque range. I replaced EVERY hose and belt under the hood including the vacume hoses. That solved that problem. So I commenced to performing all the maintnence that had been neglected for the past 25 yrs or so. Every ounce of fluid, with filters (trans included), diffs, transfer case, all the plugs wires, cap, rotor, radiator flush, pcv, powersteering lines (all 3), and fluid, fuel filter, and on and on. I did not take on any huge jobs though because this is my daily driver. When I start the truck there is a sound like the chain is slapping up against the sides of the tc cover.
About 1 week ago I began to develop a hesitation at higher speeds, about 70mph. I would slow down and it would go away. So like a true slacker I would just wake up 5 min earlier and drive 65 to work. Then it started to hesitate at 65 then 55, so I decided that I had to drop the fuel tank and put a new pump and screen in her. I did that and now I get back up to 65 or so before the hesitation returns.
So now I'm thinking that I have a timing chain issue. Or possibly could send off my injectors to be rebuilt. 92 Toy has inspired me as a noob and I'm ready to conqure the world. I have been all over engbldr's site and think that will be a great resource. But this is my daily driver. I am unsure of my next step.
I have been a member of this site for about a year now and you guys are a great group of guy's, so what are your thoughts/ideas/questions.
I also realize that I have no pics on here and will work to remedy that very soon.
Great site and keep up the good work.
Robby
About 1 week ago I began to develop a hesitation at higher speeds, about 70mph. I would slow down and it would go away. So like a true slacker I would just wake up 5 min earlier and drive 65 to work. Then it started to hesitate at 65 then 55, so I decided that I had to drop the fuel tank and put a new pump and screen in her. I did that and now I get back up to 65 or so before the hesitation returns.
So now I'm thinking that I have a timing chain issue. Or possibly could send off my injectors to be rebuilt. 92 Toy has inspired me as a noob and I'm ready to conqure the world. I have been all over engbldr's site and think that will be a great resource. But this is my daily driver. I am unsure of my next step.
I have been a member of this site for about a year now and you guys are a great group of guy's, so what are your thoughts/ideas/questions.
I also realize that I have no pics on here and will work to remedy that very soon.
Great site and keep up the good work.
Robby
#3
The timing chain slack does not affect the 22r that much as it does many other vehicles. The fact that its slapping at 105K is kinda earliy but the interval for reaplcing the timing chain is 90-100K. The chain and guides may be ok but the tensioner could be faulty. Tis time for a reaplcement reguardless.
How early are we talking? These auto transmissions are electronically controled and have set shift points for certain driving conditions. A 22r with an auto is going to be slow they seem to "shift early" for people but its better for MPG. Most ppl don't realize it because they drive manual 22r's. I've had 2 or 3 auto 22r's they are slow and not meant for speed.
However. The hesitation you speak of could seem to "hesitate on accel" and you may not notice. A truck with that low mileage... Hmm.. I'm thinking EGR opening too early and at wrong times. Try unpluging it a driving it to see it makes a difference.
Oh and next time before you drop the fuel tank on a 4runner. Under the passanger side rear seat is an access panel for replacing the fuel pump.
How early are we talking? These auto transmissions are electronically controled and have set shift points for certain driving conditions. A 22r with an auto is going to be slow they seem to "shift early" for people but its better for MPG. Most ppl don't realize it because they drive manual 22r's. I've had 2 or 3 auto 22r's they are slow and not meant for speed.
However. The hesitation you speak of could seem to "hesitate on accel" and you may not notice. A truck with that low mileage... Hmm.. I'm thinking EGR opening too early and at wrong times. Try unpluging it a driving it to see it makes a difference.
Oh and next time before you drop the fuel tank on a 4runner. Under the passanger side rear seat is an access panel for replacing the fuel pump.
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Dang you guys are fast.
Thanks Wab.
Kiroshu, it seems like 1st takes off fine and then it's 2-3-4 and then I can floor it and there is no kick down. I tightened the kick down linkage and took all of the slack out of the throttle cable already. That helped a little.
The trap door above the fuel tank was revealed to me as I lay in my dirt driveway with the fuel tank on my knees.
My eight year old son got a good laugh out of it.
I will check to make sure that the EGR bolts are tight first, I did not think of that, and I had to tighten them when I first got the truck.
So you don't think that the chain slap is a pressing matter. It goes away about 5 seconds after start up. I just figured that the tensioner runs off of oil pressure.
Thanks again guys.
Thanks Wab.
Kiroshu, it seems like 1st takes off fine and then it's 2-3-4 and then I can floor it and there is no kick down. I tightened the kick down linkage and took all of the slack out of the throttle cable already. That helped a little.
The trap door above the fuel tank was revealed to me as I lay in my dirt driveway with the fuel tank on my knees.
My eight year old son got a good laugh out of it.
I will check to make sure that the EGR bolts are tight first, I did not think of that, and I had to tighten them when I first got the truck.
So you don't think that the chain slap is a pressing matter. It goes away about 5 seconds after start up. I just figured that the tensioner runs off of oil pressure.
Thanks again guys.
Last edited by Fireball81; 08-07-2010 at 06:06 PM. Reason: Also can I just replace the timing chain and dampers or do I need to get the thing decked and checked, replace valves etc.
#5
If its only on start-up chain slap then your either low on oil just a tad, or the tensioner is slackin alil on start-up....
Well after you try your "bolt tightening" try unlugging the vac line going to it and drive. EGR can cause heavy accel issues if its opening too early.
Whens the last time you looked at the air filter or distributor cap?
Well after you try your "bolt tightening" try unlugging the vac line going to it and drive. EGR can cause heavy accel issues if its opening too early.
Whens the last time you looked at the air filter or distributor cap?
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The filter and Distributer both have about 3k miles on them. The thing that worries me about my hesitation is the entire truck acts like it is going to shut down. I looked for bad spark plug wires they are all tight and no frays or any sign of grounding on them or on the distributer.
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#8
They may have that many miles but ahve you visually inspected them? You would be surprised when parts get dirty and or worn after 3k miles. An exceptionally dirty air filter can cause poor engine performance.
Cap could have water and or corrosion.
Hows it idle?
Main intake hose leaking?
Cap could have water and or corrosion.
Hows it idle?
Main intake hose leaking?
#9
Taking the EGR out all together will not hurt these engines just make sure its blocked off properly. Along with the vacuum lines. If the egr is bad and you don't care to buy a new one just remove and block off.
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No I didn't eyball the air filter I will do that tommrow. The idle is fine. How do I check if the main intake hose is leaking? I put my ear up to it and do not notice any hissing.
#11
Whats your idle at? Generaly with the intake main intake hose leaking idle will lower. Since you donot have access to a "smoke machine" then yes your going to have to listen. Clamps tight? Usually on the Main intake hose its quite loud hissing and you can hear it well. You can put your hand around the hose all the way down and around to see if you cover up a hole and you will more than likely notice "idle-up." Usually though... a good visual inspection is fine.
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I don't know what the idle is exactly but it sounds fine. Not to high not to low. It was a little high when I got it and when I would shift into r or d from park I thought it was going to knock my teeth lose so I turned it down with the adjustment screw on top of the intake.
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Well it's been a while but I have been trying to make time for my egr but I have just been driving around with that hesitation. I did check my air filter and that thing was filthy. I had butterfly's and dragonfly wings sticking out of that thing. So I switched it out and the idle came up a little and I am not really having the early shifting problem now, only the hesitation under acceleration.
I am going to search for someone who has a doccumented egr delete.
Thanks again guys.
Robby.
I am going to search for someone who has a doccumented egr delete.
Thanks again guys.
Robby.
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I just finished blocking off my EGR and vacume lines. I checked the remaining lines for leaks and proper placement. Everything checked out. No leaks found in the intake system. It now shifts like it should and when I peadal step on it, it kicks down again. I am in love with my new truck. However it still hesitates durring any acceleration above 30 miles per hour. Any ideas for what to do next would be appreciated. Thanks, you guys rock.
Last edited by Fireball81; 08-25-2010 at 04:02 PM.
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4runner, acceleration, auto, automatic, bad, early, hesitating, jeep, quick, shift, shifting, shifts, toyota, transmission, truck