pwd

So my next project is going to be replacing the backing plates and rear drum brakes on my '95 pickup. Everything is rusty and falling apart and I haven't been able to use my e-brake because of this.







Those pictures were taken in the fall, and the brakes are in even worse shape now (cracked shoe lining and more chips from drum)

I've ordered 99% of the parts I need so I should be ready to tackle this over the weekend. I got the one drum off but the other is stuck because the shoes are right up against it. I've tried adjusting the star wheel but its nut budging because of rust. My plan is to just go ahead and remove the axel and try and work on it that way( I need to remove the axel anyway to replace the backing plates and get the wheel bearings out etc..).

Here are all the parts:
backing plates (brand spanking new factory Toyota ones)
Inner and outer axel seals
o-rings
snap rings
gaskets

shoes
drums
brake cylinders
shoe retainer cups

still need to order:
new nuts for axle flange
c-clips for parking brake lever mechanism



Does anyone have any tricks for plugging the ends of the rear brake line so it doesn't drain the master cylinder?

Magnusian

Stubborn drum? I think I've read that there are two threaded holes on the drum itself that you can insert bolts into and then you just keep cranking them until the drum comes off.

Good luck with replacing your rear breaks, so far it's been an... experience... for me with my brake replacement. This weekend, eh? Sounds like we need some friendly competition. Internet points to whoever replaces their breaks first?

Oh, I forgot to mention, I "plugged" my rear hardline by tightening my manual bias valve so that it's closed off and then "crimped" the end of the line, which i'll be putting a new fitting on eventually (or outright replacing the entire hardline if I decide I really need the bias valve in the cab and not under the hood by the firewall).

rustypigeon

To plug the brake lines, I use vacuum line plugs. I got an assortment of sizes and I just select one that goes snug over the brake line.

How much are the backing plates from the dealer? Mine are getting rusty too.

pwd

@Magnusian - yes thats true about the threaded holes, however all of mine are stripped I plan on keeping my brake line for now so I wont be crimping it. I'll try and post some pictures of the job, you might win if we were to race ... since I also have to get the wheel bearings pressed out and in and not sure if any shops will be open.

@rustypigeon - Vacuum line plugs... I'll check when I goto the parts store tonight. Thanks. I ordered my backing plates from www.1sttoyotaparts.com and they were $77 each...about $90 for me after shipping/exchange and duty.

Magnusian

I need to get things pressed too! No backing out, IT'S ON!

Also, I thought 1st Toyota didn't ship to soviet canuckistan, I had to get my plates from the dealership.

pwd

So last night I managed to get one of the axles out and got the drum removed. I went and bought some snap-ring pliers to remove the snap ring but I'm not exactly sure whats next...

I found the snap ring difficult to remove. I used the pliers and then jammed a screwdriver in and twisted it. Is there an easier/proper way to do this?
So after the snap ring is removed, is the retainer and bearing ready to be pressed out? What parts will the shop need to press in the re-packed bearing?

pwd

Bump...

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Those are sealed bearings if you have the stock axle which it seems you do.

Are you supplying the bearings or getting them from who is pressing the bearings off and the new ones on.

For the brake line I just use vise grips that I ground the jaws smooth on the rubber line. You still need to bleed but it doesn`t take so long to get brake fluid to the rear.

Good luck

pwd

I am actually just going to re-use my retainers and bearings and have them re-packed. So when they reinstall the bearings on the new backing plates, what other parts will they need to press the bearings in?

cws9685

thats all you need but i would go ahead replace the bearings you cant repack them they are sealed a good way to check and see if there bad grab the backing plat and try and move it back and forth if moves i would replace

pwd

So I brought everything to the shop today and looks like I'm gonna get new bearings, hopefully its finished tomorrow. I have yet to remove the inner axle seals/orings from the axle housing. Seems like I can just pry it out as long as I don't scratch inside the housing. I've also had to purchase a new brake line for one side since the fitting was rusted to the line and it caused it twist apart. So thats where I'm at.

Next question: Is there a trick to installing new snap rings? When I "removed" the old ones, I had to twist and bend them to get them off, even with snap ring pliers. How can I install new ones without bending them?

Magnusian

You'll definitely have to replace the bearings, something I just found out, every tech I've called or talked to has prettymuch said that they couldn't reccomend reusing the bearings since pressing them off damages them way too easily. You can get replacements from overdrive automotive for $75/ea, but I think 1sttoyotaparts has them for $5/ea.

Btw, are you on SONTT? If not, get there: sontt.com I know North Bay isn't quite Southern Ontario, but it's close enough methinks.

pwd

So the shop finished installing the new backing plates etc... I have to wait to see them so I hope they did it 100% (I had them install the snap rings while they were at it). I installed new inner axel seals yesterday by using a pvc pipe section. On one of the sides I bent the seal but straightened it out it out with pliers and it looks OK. Honestly me fingers are crossed, if they leak I'm going to snap my crayons since this was supposed to be a "$600 weekend DIY" project that turned into "$1200 week long DIY with some shop help" project. I'll try and post some pictures up before I install everything...

@Magnusian - I'll take a look at sontt. I read over your axel rebuild, I can't wait to get my pickup back on the road, the new backing plates will stand out like a sore thumb!

pwd

So I've replaced the diff fluid, and put all the drum hardware on the new backing plates... which are now installed on the truck . One thing I can't figure out is the tension spring that goes on the e-brake arm that is visible behind the backing plate.

Can someone set me up with a picture of that? I checked on my 4Runner but its a different style.

EDIT: ANOTHER QUESTION

I just put my resurfaced drums on and they very very tight. I made sure the adjuster was backed off all the way on both sides, but even with the wheels back on, there is ALOT of drag when trying to just freewheel it by hand (rear is jacked off of ground). Is normal with new brake shoes or did I screw something up and have to take the brakes all apart again?

Thanks in advance!

pwd

Sorry for bump, but I need to know about the shoes.

pwd

Yet another bump, now with pictures. Do brake shoes have a front/back?? If so then I screwed this up. See the last two pictures, how do the shoes look? My parking brake adjuster doesn't seem to work correctly, with the drum off, I pull the cable but the auto adjuster doesn't click, it just moves the wheel a tiny bit (not enough to do a click).











Here are the profile pics of the new shoes:




So to summarize here is what I'd like to know:
Do brake shoes have a front/back shoe, or does it matter?
How is the parking brake supposed to work; when I pull the level in the cab, what SHOULD happen?
My auto adjusters don't auto-adjust... if I set it manually can I still use the e-brake (once I get the e-brake working?

Thanks.

Magnusian

Wow, you're a lot further along than I am! Just got all the old stuff pressed off my axle shafts yesterday, gotta pickup a few more bits and pieces and then get it put back together.

I think the levers and stuff go behind the shoes, those brakes don't look quite right. Look in your FSM, it'll show you how they're supposed to go together.

betelnut

Did this exact thing two days ago.

No difference between shoes, front or back, either way.

With the drums off, pulling the parking brake should have no resistance, it'll pull all the way out. You might be able to hear the click of the adjuster. When you push the brake back in, you should see the adjuster move the star wheel. With the drums on, the parking brake should pull partly out if the star wheel is adjusted properly, or all the way out if the star wheel is all the way in as shown in your pics.

If you set the rear brakes manually with a screwdriver through the hole in the backing plates, the e-brake will work until the pads are worn down and become out of adjustment again.

You should just figure out why they're not adjusting. The right side on my truck was not working. I pulled it all apart, applied brake caliper grease (Autozone, $3-$4) to the threads on one side of the wheel, and the bushing on the other side; that made sure it was easy enough to turn. The adjuster also wasn't returning all the way back home, so I greased that up. After that, everything worked right. Put the drum back on, adjusted with the screwdriver, and the parking brake felt solid.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

There is also the fact E-Brake cables stretch!!

There is also the E-Brake adjustment in front of the gas tank that may need to be adjusted

You didn`t get your adjusters mixed up and switch sides meaning the adjuster will close instead of expand

Brake drag is hard to tell New Shoes and New Drums with adjusters backed off I have no drag to I start to adjust the Brakes up.

Good Luck

pwd

Thanks for the info/tips!

@Magnusian - you had me a bit worried, but it looks like everything is installed correctly. I checked the FSM and compared the older pic of the shoes etc to the new one.

@betelnut - Good, glad I don't have to tear the shoes etc.. out again. Your explanation makes sense, thats how the e-brake should work judging by a test I just did. I put the drums back on and manually adjusted the star wheel. Tested the e-brake again and it stops the driver side, but the passenger side cable doesn't seem to pick up the slack.

@wyoming9 - I actually did have the adjusters on the wrong side, and fixed that a couple of days ago.

Here is a pic(not my truck obviously but you get the point), its the cable on the right. I don't understand how it would even move since the cable just sits there.