Zelephant

What's the procedure to bleeding the cooling on a 22RE? I know the filler neck is supposed to be higher than the heater core, but what else is involved. A brief search turned up nothing, can anyone advise me? Thanks!

coops2k

I disconnected both hoses going into the heater core, one at the control valve (closed off the entry hose to the control valve) and the other at the block (I think), ran some water through them to flush it out, leaving the lower hose hanging. Then I started adding in some 50/50 mix until it tarted coming out of the lower hose, hooked it back up, then reconnected the exit hose and using a funnel, added in my 50/50 into the upper hose. shake both hoses and try adding some more, this happened about 4-5 times, the shaking seemed to get air out, each time less was added.
The drain plugs for the block, did not looked very good, so those where left untouched.
Since the thermostat is closes, you can't get everything out the block, but it seemed to help a lot, as I have added very little coolant, about 16oz after this to the over flow bottle.

Zelephant

Yeah, I have heard people say that bleeding the system isn't necessary on a 22RE, but one or two people I've talked to seem to feel it's necessary. Maybe I should just try a simple flush and if I get weird temp spikes then bleed it?

PismoJoe

I had problems with excess sediment in my heater core, causing my heat to blow out luke warm which is not cool.

I took off the heater hoses going to it, taped a shop vac up to it, and sucked out everything.

Then hooked the shop-vac up to the bottom radiator hose outlet (the metal tube that goes to the timing cover) to get everything out of the engine. There is a drain plug under the exhaust manifold, but its a PITA to get to.

Just if you really want to get everything out, you'll be surprised at what a shop-vac can do lol

Other wise, gnarly had a good refill procedure. The only advice i can give for getting the air out is go park up a steep hill or driveway (the steeper the better), take the radiator cap off (when engine is cold of course) then start it up and let it run for 15 mins. Just burp the hell out of it, and make sure when your driving you don't hear little bubbling sounds coming from your heater core, indicating air in the coolant system

tried4x2signN

I used to run a 22RE w/o the T-stat... But that was after the engine was pulled out and repowered...

If I ran it w/o the stat, till it was full, the only water you lose from putting the T-stst back in, is from the upper hose... The block is bled... Then I installed T-stat.

But I've since gotten lazy... I don't even pull hoods anymore to get engines out...

other than that I echo Gnarly4X's post...

lilrexracer21

Ok, so can someone sum up all these different posts? plz ol plz thx?! But I'm in need of the process/steps to flush and drain the coolant system on a 93-94 yota pickup 22re?! and also, I need to adjust my valves I'm having lots of chatter and I feel its necessary to go ahead now, and finally get to it! B4 I have or run into more problems! But, my question about or dealing w/ the adjusting valves is there a "do it urself" steps/process therefore....if so, may someone post me a how-to for adjusting my valves etc "feeler gauges and all kinda" stuff as well as a how-to w/ the coolant ?'s...? thank you so much everyone very much apreciated no doubt!!!

Porkchok

Step 1: Go to your local auto parts chain store and get yourself a Chilton's or Hayne's manual. (Or both they're only $20-$25 usually) Everything you asked and so much more can be found in either of them.

Uh... That's about it for my steps... That one step will allow you to solve most of the problems you will encounter when working on your truck.

To the original poster: I've had no issues when I just park on my inclined drive-way, fill the radiator, start the truck let it get to normal operating temp so the thermostat opens up, fill it the rest of the way if it needs any, close the radiator cap, and fill the reservior. Then just keep your eye on the reservior over the next couple of days and top off as needed. Simple and painless. Same as everything with these trucks. Right guys?!

P.S. It's bad etiquate to hi-jack someone else's thread with your own questions, lilrexracer21, but we forgive you.

Good luck!

lilrexracer21

ok firstly you mentioned something bout high jacking what do u mean by that or what are you trying to say reason being im somewhat new to this site and id like to fix whateve i did4future reference?! i was in noway trying to offend or piss anyone off so therefore im sorry for that... but newaz yes i know those books are the way togo but in my haynes man. it doesnt state the how-to whn flushing/draining system or il say iv looked and just cant seem to find it or it hasnt gottan me very far w this subject? ok, so is it as simple as draining radiator,+ upper lower hoses, reservoir and i believe that'd concludes it? and yes the man does show the how- to on vavle adjustment least it appears so.. if i havea ? il ask you guys, if i may. again fellas im sorry for whatever i did or if i may have ped anyone off im only learning w this stuff and ofcourse trying to fix my ride.. ya dig,but sorry again and thx for all and eveyones help!

brorealz

with the exception of a few(im looking at you ford rangers) you can bleed the system with a simple incline and leaving the cap off while filling, running of course.

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

You don't bleed a coolant system, you burp it.

aztoyman

Don't fill the system like NASCAR crews fill a fuel tank either. I saw guys stick a big funnel in the rad and dump coolant in so fast it's bound to trap some air.

I always fill slow and never have trouble. Its easy to pull the top hose back and leave the T-stat out until coolant reaches that point if you're really worried about it.