eliminate load sensing proportioning valve?
05-05-2009, 06:53 PM
#24
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What did you do with that brake line hanging? That would be the one that tee's into the right front brake, no? How did you plug and remove it since it doesn't show in the later photos?
I agree- it does look good. To bad there's little explanation behind the photos so others can do it properly. And thanks for the W/B. 
Last edited by abecedarian; 05-05-2009 at 06:54 PM.
05-05-2009, 07:00 PM
#25
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Well, all I remember when I did my rear disc kit was replumb the lines up front by the passenger front wheel well and out back by the lspv there by rendering in inop. Then plumb in the proportion valve by the master cylinder like Wab. It's been a LONG time since I did it.
05-05-2009, 07:02 PM
#26
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I used a M10x1.0 bolt with a nut to plug the tee. I tightened the nut just to make sure it doesn't come loose. I left the line. It looked like alot of work to remove and I didn't see any need to remove it.
05-05-2009, 07:11 PM
#27
What did you do with that brake line hanging? That would be the one that tee's into the right front brake, no? How did you plug and remove it since it doesn't show in the later photos?
I agree- it does look good. To bad there's little explanation behind the photos so others can do it properly. And thanks for the W/B.
I agree- it does look good. To bad there's little explanation behind the photos so others can do it properly. And thanks for the W/B.
05-05-2009, 07:15 PM
#28
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That looks like from the front / right wheel but I don't see the crimp.
Last edited by abecedarian; 05-05-2009 at 07:16 PM.
05-05-2009, 07:22 PM
#29
05-05-2009, 07:26 PM
#30
05-06-2009, 12:40 PM
#32
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say you've got a pressure source of 1600 PSI and you want to be able to limit it to 1400 PSI... if you have a spring on a valve that applies 400 PSI, and the preload on that spring is adjustable, you can turn in the adjuster so that the 1600 of the fluid fed back into a valve that when the 400 of the spring is added to is enough to cut off the fluid supply until the fluid pressure drops below a certain value.
Ohh I see so it backfeeds onto the spring to cause less flow. But once the system equalizes how does the pressure drop?
While adding pressure you can limit the flow which causes a pressure drop but once the flow stops how do you get rid of the pressure? I can see how it works on gas and hydraulics that are moving but in a brake system the flow becomes stable. In a closed pressure system isn't all the pressure the same unless you have flow somewhere?
I must be missing something or putting to much thought into this.....
05-06-2009, 01:43 PM
#33
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maybe this will help: http://autoshop101.com/forms/brake08.pdf
05-06-2009, 02:34 PM
#34
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maybe this will help: http://autoshop101.com/forms/brake08.pdf
05-06-2009, 04:08 PM
#36
Just got this done last weekend
Now I just need to ditch the 1 1/16" master cylinder for a smaller bore
Wilwood manual brake proportioning valve - the shiny fittings are SAE standard for 3/16" brake line, the only metric (Toyota) fittings are the rusted ones that I re-used on the master cylinder, the Toyota fittings worked perfectly with the 3/16" line and mixing them on the line made it easy to adapt
(note: all brake lines where bent with a tool, brake line doesn't bend very nicely by hand - it has a tendency to kink)
Took the LSPV off. The line that needs to get bent down to the flexible brake line is the one at the top of the LSPV - there is an -> next to the brake line on the LSPV. The line with an "F" next to it ties into the front brake line and can just be bent back or cut off . . . .
. . . . once you plug the front "T" - - I just took a fiting and put a big puddle of weld in the middle of it to make my own plug.
(note: all brake lines where bent with a tool, brake line doesn't bend very nicely by hand - it has a tendency to kink)
Took the LSPV off. The line that needs to get bent down to the flexible brake line is the one at the top of the LSPV - there is an -> next to the brake line on the LSPV. The line with an "F" next to it ties into the front brake line and can just be bent back or cut off . . . .
. . . . once you plug the front "T" - - I just took a fiting and put a big puddle of weld in the middle of it to make my own plug.
05-23-2009, 05:57 PM
#38
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I just removed my LSPV (rusted out and too expensive) on my '89 4wd pickup, capped the front drivers side return hole, hooked up to the "T" in the back through the rear brake line, bled the brakes. I wanted to use the truck temporarily until my prop valve comes. My problem is that my brake pedal goes all the way to the floor when I start it and I have no brakes at all unless I push them all the way to the floor. I can pump the brake pedal and it firms up, when it's not running. What did I do wrong? Any guidance would be most appreciated.
05-24-2009, 03:44 AM
#39
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Edit - My brake pedal is not stiff and does not pump up. It travels all the way to the floor with little to no resistance. Is that Master Cylinder or could air in the line do that too? Thanks.
05-24-2009, 07:29 AM
#40
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I did this about 3 weeks ago and I am glad that I did. It was a free and easy fix. I just cut the rod that was connected to the rear diff and then tied it up. I noticed a big difference when I apply the brakes now. Hope this helps.
Jeremy
Jeremy
