Head stuck to block
#1
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Head stuck to block
I can't seem to figure out why the head isn't moving one iota. The exhaust, intake, PS pulley, head bolts (and secret bolt by the cam sprocket) have all been taken off the head. Any ideas as to what would restrict its removal?
There are two pipes that wrap around the back of the head. One is the No. 1 Air Injection pipe that connects the intake with the exhaust--that has been disconnected from the exhaust. Should this pipe or the other be completely removed? I could this these possibly restricting the head, but even the front of the head is not budging. Am I missing something here? Should I just take a rubber mallet to this thing?
Thanks for any advice/ideas!
There are two pipes that wrap around the back of the head. One is the No. 1 Air Injection pipe that connects the intake with the exhaust--that has been disconnected from the exhaust. Should this pipe or the other be completely removed? I could this these possibly restricting the head, but even the front of the head is not budging. Am I missing something here? Should I just take a rubber mallet to this thing?
Thanks for any advice/ideas!
#2
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Ivery time I've had a head not want to move has been because of a bolt that I missed. If a couple of wacks with a dead blow hammer don't make it move you might need to put something like a bigger punch in a hole to get it moving. I'm not sure about Toys but on every Jeep engine I've had it has had a dowel pin on each end to align the head.
Don't try to drive something in between the block and the head.
Don't try to drive something in between the block and the head.
#3
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Hmm... can't think of anything off hand. It won't just lift off though if that's what you're trying to do. I don't remember what I did, but use a rubber mallet or a dead blow hammer or a block of wood and a hammer to try to loosen it up if you're sure you have all the head bolts out.
#4
a hammer to the side probably won't do much if you are smacking it completely sideways - there are 2 hollow dowels that will prevent it from loosening much - if you can get a bit of upward swing on it, it might loosen up a bit (as long as you really didn't miss any bolts)
you can also try to gently pry it up, but don't stick anything between the head and block.
are there any brackets still attached that bolt to both the head and block?
you can also try to gently pry it up, but don't stick anything between the head and block.
are there any brackets still attached that bolt to both the head and block?
#5
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I've removed 3 heads, two came off no problem. One I actually had to use the cherry picker it lift it off (like your lifting the whole motor) and it took a inch or so before it
"popped" off. Sometimes the HG makes a suction seal
never try to pry it off tho (ie putting something between head and block)
otherwise under normal circumstances a few whacks should pop it free but not always
"popped" off. Sometimes the HG makes a suction seal
never try to pry it off tho (ie putting something between head and block)
otherwise under normal circumstances a few whacks should pop it free but not always
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Thanks for the ideas guys! I double checked all brackets and couldn't find anything. I know I removed the PS bracket from the head. Is there anything else that connects the head to the block other than the head bolts?
I took a foot long 2x4 to the head and hit it with a hammer, but all that did was put a crease in the wood--no movement from the head.
I might try to pry it out if I can find something to use as a fulcrum. I'll pick up on the project tomorrow.
I took a foot long 2x4 to the head and hit it with a hammer, but all that did was put a crease in the wood--no movement from the head.
I might try to pry it out if I can find something to use as a fulcrum. I'll pick up on the project tomorrow.
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#8
I'm looking at the FSM for the 22RE. There is a "chain cover bolt" at the front -- appears to be directly centered on the cam. It says to pry between the head and block "saliences." (ha, ha, he said "saliences") Note that on the 22RE there is a bit of the head that extends over the block at the front. It's mated to the top of the chain cover. If the chain has been replaced without removing the head, it's possible that some sticky rtv, or similar, exists there. You can remove the chain cover to see (requires removing the front two oil pan bolts). Also, if you remove the timing chain cover, you'll have a surface on the underside of the head which you can gently tap with a soft instrument. If the head gasket material is still there, you'd be unlikely to inflict damage if you tapped with a block of wood.
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chain cover bolt is inside the head / timing chain end, in the little pocket next to the distributor- it may be buried in oil. Also, the water pipe to the heater may need come to come off if it's still connected to the intake- it's bolted to the rear of the head as is the pipe from the PAIR reed valve.
If you're gonna swing a hammer at it, use either a dead-blow hammer or place a block of wood where you're going to hit it so you don't damage the head.
If you're gonna swing a hammer at it, use either a dead-blow hammer or place a block of wood where you're going to hit it so you don't damage the head.
#12
Hidden hex key bolt that goes through the intake manifold to the head.
\
Hidden bolt just below the distributer gear. It will be in a pool of oil. Fish around. It holds the head to the timing cover I think.
\
Hidden bolt just below the distributer gear. It will be in a pool of oil. Fish around. It holds the head to the timing cover I think.
Last edited by Matt16; 01-07-2009 at 10:06 PM.
#13
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if that bolts out you just need to pry it a bit, just dont pry on the mating surfaces pry on a bolt flange or somethin
they tend to get a little stuck on there after a while
they tend to get a little stuck on there after a while
#14
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I'll bet it's just stuck on the dowels. He's already gotten the intake off = allan head bolt, and the "secret bolt" under the cam sprocket.
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