Check Engine Light Code P1135 (Air Fuel Sensor)
#1
Check Engine Light Code P1135 (Air Fuel Sensor)
2002 4Runner SR5, V6, 85410 miles
This is my first Check Engine issue with the truck since I bought it in October 2004. Three dash lights (Check Engine Light, VSC and TRAC OFF lights) all lit up at once (on Aug 09, 2008).
Checked battery voltage, cleaned battery posts, and gas cap was tight. Code got erased when I disconnected the battery cables, but after driving 12 miles the Check Engine Light, VSC and TRAC OFF lights lit up again. Got the truck diagnosed. Got code P1135 (Manufacturer Control Fuel Air Metering). Replaced the air fuel sensor (DENSO p/n 89467-35011). I did not erase the codes after installing the new air fuel sensor. Instead, I drove the truck (about 30 miles) and hoped the lights would turn off by themselves, but they didn't turn off that day. The next day, I start the truck and notice the Check Engine Light, VSC and TRAC OFF lights were are all gone (off). (Cooool...I never knew that codes got cleared on their own after replacing the correct part. Now, I am sure the old air fuel sensor had gone bad.)
FYI: I read in one of the 4Runner forums that the heating element resistance on a good sensor should be between 0.8 - 1.4 Ohms at 68°F. The heating element resistance is measured between the two black wires on the air fuel sensor. I checked the resistance (with a Fluke digital multimeter) on the old (bad) air fuel sensor and got a value of 2.3 Ohms at 78°F. The resistance was 1.1 Ohms on the new air fuel sensor at 78°F (within the range, good sensor).
Since installing the new air fuel sensor, I have noticed that the truck does not leave the strong exhaust odor (that it used to) during startup and power during acceleration has improved. I'm sure miles per gallon has improved ,but I haven't taken a measurement yet. In my opinion, I think it is a good idea to change the air fuel sensor sometime after 75K, since it helps the overall performance of the truck so much and prevents possible damage to the catalytic converters (very expensive parts). Also, the air fuel sensor was easy to reach and replace. Good luck and Thanks to members of the forums whose posts on this issue were so helpful.
This is my first Check Engine issue with the truck since I bought it in October 2004. Three dash lights (Check Engine Light, VSC and TRAC OFF lights) all lit up at once (on Aug 09, 2008).
Checked battery voltage, cleaned battery posts, and gas cap was tight. Code got erased when I disconnected the battery cables, but after driving 12 miles the Check Engine Light, VSC and TRAC OFF lights lit up again. Got the truck diagnosed. Got code P1135 (Manufacturer Control Fuel Air Metering). Replaced the air fuel sensor (DENSO p/n 89467-35011). I did not erase the codes after installing the new air fuel sensor. Instead, I drove the truck (about 30 miles) and hoped the lights would turn off by themselves, but they didn't turn off that day. The next day, I start the truck and notice the Check Engine Light, VSC and TRAC OFF lights were are all gone (off). (Cooool...I never knew that codes got cleared on their own after replacing the correct part. Now, I am sure the old air fuel sensor had gone bad.)
FYI: I read in one of the 4Runner forums that the heating element resistance on a good sensor should be between 0.8 - 1.4 Ohms at 68°F. The heating element resistance is measured between the two black wires on the air fuel sensor. I checked the resistance (with a Fluke digital multimeter) on the old (bad) air fuel sensor and got a value of 2.3 Ohms at 78°F. The resistance was 1.1 Ohms on the new air fuel sensor at 78°F (within the range, good sensor).
Since installing the new air fuel sensor, I have noticed that the truck does not leave the strong exhaust odor (that it used to) during startup and power during acceleration has improved. I'm sure miles per gallon has improved ,but I haven't taken a measurement yet. In my opinion, I think it is a good idea to change the air fuel sensor sometime after 75K, since it helps the overall performance of the truck so much and prevents possible damage to the catalytic converters (very expensive parts). Also, the air fuel sensor was easy to reach and replace. Good luck and Thanks to members of the forums whose posts on this issue were so helpful.
#2
take note
your rear o2 sensor will now, likely puke out in 4 months it is almost a guarantee.
so get
ready to replace it. these things wear out normally in pairs, kinda like a pair of new headlight bulbs. and when the a/f is on the fritz, it accelerates the death of the rear.
also your Denso part number is a Toyota specific part number
you will remove p/n 89467-35010 ...35011 is an upgraded version, so don't worry
when a dealer gives you 35011 it is the correct part ...a/f for 3.4 engine
your rear o2 sensor will now, likely puke out in 4 months it is almost a guarantee.
so get
ready to replace it. these things wear out normally in pairs, kinda like a pair of new headlight bulbs. and when the a/f is on the fritz, it accelerates the death of the rear.
also your Denso part number is a Toyota specific part number
you will remove p/n 89467-35010 ...35011 is an upgraded version, so don't worry
when a dealer gives you 35011 it is the correct part ...a/f for 3.4 engine
Last edited by BigBallsMcFalls; 08-19-2008 at 07:50 PM.
#3
Contributing Member
I just replaced the sensor on my 01, with 150,000 km on it, in May after getting the P1135 code, . I'm now getting 450 km per tank compared to about 380 km before replacing it. The gas savings should pay for the new sensor fairly quickly.
#4
3.4 swap
Just finished up my 3.4 swap, and am getting, a P1135 code also. For the air fuel sensor I just reused the old sensor from the 3.0, The engine harness that came with the engine had a shattered connector shell for the 3.4 sensor, which actually is a different style connector shell. So i had another older 3.4 harness that had the same style connector as the 3.0 so I just spliced that one in. are the 2 sensors different? or is the one that I used just a bad one?
Thanks
Late
Joe
Thanks
Late
Joe
#7
to test one you need a computer hooked up to the diagnostic port
and monitor the waveform. an a/f sensor function is untestable without
the ECU interpreting for you.
you can only test the heater circuit and
voltage of .64 or .65 without using a computer, and that is garbage
doesn't tell you if it really works or not.
a/f is not like an o2 sensor that you can easily test with a multimeter
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#8
I get that I need a computer to see if the sensor is working, but thats not the code I'm getting, the code is for the heater circuit. I pulled the connector and hooked up my multi meter and am getting 13V at the connector so it must have to do with the difference between the newer and older style sensors, I think?
#9
Contributing Member
The ECU is from an 02' tacoma manual trans.
I get that I need a computer to see if the sensor is working, but thats not the code I'm getting, the code is for the heater circuit. I pulled the connector and hooked up my multi meter and am getting 13V at the connector so it must have to do with the difference between the newer and older style sensors, I think?
I get that I need a computer to see if the sensor is working, but thats not the code I'm getting, the code is for the heater circuit. I pulled the connector and hooked up my multi meter and am getting 13V at the connector so it must have to do with the difference between the newer and older style sensors, I think?
Last edited by mt_goat; 09-08-2008 at 05:51 PM.
#11
#12
Contributing Member
Try here, $149:
https://www.1sttoyotaparts.com/partscat.html
https://www.1sttoyotaparts.com/partscat.html
#13
So, 400 miles after I bought an 02 Tacoma, I got the check engine light (trucks got 120K on it). Tested it, and sure enough it was the air fuel sensor, after reading some of the comments on here, I went ahead and bought it from amazon for about 140 bones. The same day that I ordered it, the light went out on its on and hasn't came back on for the past week. Go ahead and replace it, or just keep it on a shelf for when I get the light again? Thanks-
#14
Registered User
#15
Registered User
So, 400 miles after I bought an 02 Tacoma, I got the check engine light (trucks got 120K on it). Tested it, and sure enough it was the air fuel sensor, after reading some of the comments on here, I went ahead and bought it from amazon for about 140 bones. The same day that I ordered it, the light went out on its on and hasn't came back on for the past week. Go ahead and replace it, or just keep it on a shelf for when I get the light again? Thanks-
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