Couple engine block questions.
#1
Couple engine block questions.
Where do I get the two dowels that go on top of the engine block, to keep the head gasket in place? Shop that tanked it doesn't know what happened to them.
Also, on the front of the engine block, there's a large hex head nut......what is that there for? I'll see if I can find a pic and of it.
Thanks.
vmax84
Also, on the front of the engine block, there's a large hex head nut......what is that there for? I'll see if I can find a pic and of it.
Thanks.
vmax84
#3
#4
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Only "large" hex head bolt I can think of (besides the crank bolt) is the botl that hold thes oil pump pressure spring in place...
Thats not actually ON the block tho....
Thats not actually ON the block tho....
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Since he said two dowel pins to hold /the/ (as in singular) head gasket, I assume it's a 22R. Also I'm fairly certain vmax84 is rebuilding an engine. Anyway, he probably means this bolt. I think it's a water jacket plug. When they cast engine blocks they have to sometimes leave holes in the casting to get the sand out of the coolant and oil passages. So you'll see plugs sometimes that don't seem to do anything and most likely it's just how they had to do it when they made the original casting.
The dowels are available from Toyota. I dunno about the plug, but my first try would also be Toyota. Neither of these parts are special, but finding them is enough of a PITA that I would pay the dealer if he has them. The dowels seem to be 6.0mm and the mating hole in the head is 6.1mm. I don't know what the bore size of the hole in the block would be, probably 6.0mm. The hex plug, my block had it already, so I never had to find a replacement.
The dowels are available from Toyota. I dunno about the plug, but my first try would also be Toyota. Neither of these parts are special, but finding them is enough of a PITA that I would pay the dealer if he has them. The dowels seem to be 6.0mm and the mating hole in the head is 6.1mm. I don't know what the bore size of the hole in the block would be, probably 6.0mm. The hex plug, my block had it already, so I never had to find a replacement.
#6
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There are actually 3 hex socket plugs on the 22R block: one in the front, one in the rear, and one underneath. They block the ends of the oil passages which run thru the block.
Be careful if you decide to remove them. Toyota offers no replacement for them and they are an unusual size making them very difficult to find. (LC engineering carries them.) They are very hard to get out without destroying them.
Also note that the crank also has 4 or 5 plugs in it for the same reason. It's not a bad idea to take em out when servicing the crank so that the oil passages can be cleaned. I used a gun barrel brush to clean the crud out of them. Be sure to stake them when replacing them.
Be careful if you decide to remove them. Toyota offers no replacement for them and they are an unusual size making them very difficult to find. (LC engineering carries them.) They are very hard to get out without destroying them.
Also note that the crank also has 4 or 5 plugs in it for the same reason. It's not a bad idea to take em out when servicing the crank so that the oil passages can be cleaned. I used a gun barrel brush to clean the crud out of them. Be sure to stake them when replacing them.
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There are actually 3 hex socket plugs on the 22R block: one in the front, one in the rear, and one underneath. They block the ends of the oil passages which run thru the block.
Be careful if you decide to remove them. Toyota offers no replacement for them and they are an unusual size making them very difficult to find. (LC engineering carries them.) They are very hard to get out without destroying them.
Be careful if you decide to remove them. Toyota offers no replacement for them and they are an unusual size making them very difficult to find. (LC engineering carries them.) They are very hard to get out without destroying them.
The #1 taper plug (front and back): 90344-53008
The #2 taper plug (on the bottom by the oil pickup): 90344-52003
The head locating dowels: 90250-08120
All three are in the parts catalog (I figure LCE probably gets them directly from Toyota). From 1sttoyotaparts.com:
Part Number: 9034453008
PLUG, TAPER SCREW
$3.43 (list)
Part Number: 9034452003
PLUG, TAPER SCREW
$1.54 (list)
Part Number: 9025008120
PIN, STRAIGHT
$1.03 (list)
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#8
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The toyota dealer exploded view doesn't show them for the 88 version as being removable/replacable. It took me 3 weeks to find replacements when I had to drill them out to remove them.
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Yeah, I dunno. I got lucky and found a good price on a complete factory short block and all the plugs were already in place. The EPC does show them for 8808-9704 JPP, so maybe the North American catalog does not show them separately. They might be different numbers for the low and high deck blocks, though. They have to have a part number somewhere, Toyota does not do anything without a part number. Whether or not the number is part of a larger assembly and only that larger assembly is available, only Toyota knows for sure. But like I say, at least some versions of the EPC show numbers for them and punching those numbers into the online parts houses comes up good and not superseeded. It's doubtful most dealers would stock them, but I'd bet they can be ordered still.
Last edited by DaveInDenver; 06-14-2007 at 08:20 AM.
#12
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The shop didn't lose them, I drilled them out. If you've ever tried to remove those plugs, you know that they are really in there. The sealant on them is like epoxy. They are nearly impossible to remove without destroying them. Usually what happens is that the head strips out before they break free.
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The shop didn't lose them, I drilled them out. If you've ever tried to remove those plugs, you know that they are really in there. The sealant on them is like epoxy. They are nearly impossible to remove without destroying them. Usually what happens is that the head strips out before they break free.
#14
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It was to clean the passages. If you don't take them out and hot tank the block, the crud just piles up inside them and doesn't drain out. I took a brush from a gun cleaning kit and scrubbed them out. You'd be surprised at what comes out of there.
#15
Since he said two dowel pins to hold /the/ (as in singular) head gasket, I assume it's a 22R. Also I'm fairly certain vmax84 is rebuilding an engine. Anyway, he probably means this bolt. I think it's a water jacket plug. When they cast engine blocks they have to sometimes leave holes in the casting to get the sand out of the coolant and oil passages. So you'll see plugs sometimes that don't seem to do anything and most likely it's just how they had to do it when they made the original casting.
The dowels are available from Toyota. I dunno about the plug, but my first try would also be Toyota. Neither of these parts are special, but finding them is enough of a PITA that I would pay the dealer if he has them. The dowels seem to be 6.0mm and the mating hole in the head is 6.1mm. I don't know what the bore size of the hole in the block would be, probably 6.0mm. The hex plug, my block had it already, so I never had to find a replacement.
The dowels are available from Toyota. I dunno about the plug, but my first try would also be Toyota. Neither of these parts are special, but finding them is enough of a PITA that I would pay the dealer if he has them. The dowels seem to be 6.0mm and the mating hole in the head is 6.1mm. I don't know what the bore size of the hole in the block would be, probably 6.0mm. The hex plug, my block had it already, so I never had to find a replacement.
Another question: My wife is out of town with the digital camera, so I can't take pics of where I'm at with the rebuild (all new top end from engnbldr and machine shop short block), but the driver's side top of the timing chain guide does not have that "guide" like yours does. The passenger side top of the plastic timing chain guide does have the "guide", but my drivers side does not. Is this going to be a problem? Thanks.
vmax84
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If you used the Engnbldr kit you probably got a metal backed driver's side guide. I used OEM guides on both sides, so they are both plastic. Mine are what yours looked like from the factory. Does your driver's side look more like these? If you are asking about that shoulder at the top, I dunno. I would think it's there for a reason. But how important it is, I'm not sure. I do think it's exaggerated in the factory parts to help in assembly, it holds the cam gear pretty well as you put the head and timing stuff together.
Last edited by DaveInDenver; 06-14-2007 at 09:12 PM.
#17
If you used the Engnbldr kit you probably got a metal backed driver's side guide. I used OEM guides on both sides, so they are both plastic. Mine are what yours looked like from the factory. Does your driver's side look more like these? If you are asking about that shoulder at the top, I dunno. I would think it's there for a reason. But how important it is, I'm not sure. I do think it's exaggerated in the factory parts to help in assembly, it holds the cam gear pretty well as you put the head and timing stuff together.
vmax84
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