2nd Gen Factory Speaker Replacement Help
06-26-2004, 09:07 PM
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2nd Gen Factory Speaker Replacement Help
I searched, and there wasn't really a definative thread on this topic, and some of the information was different in them. Hopefully this thread can clear it up.
I'm looking at tossing my stock paper speakers for some quality replacements with an amp under the passenger seat for extra power.
I'm a stereo n00b, so I'll need some input.
I'm under the impression the measurements are as follows:
Front dash = 4"T (but 4" will fit)
Rear cargo floor = 5-1/4" (also heard 4")
Rear cargo roof tweeters = 1" (?)
What size amp would I ideally want to power these? I would assume a small one would do. How many watts would do the trick?
Brands aren't an issue, all the big names (sony, pioneer, kenwood, rockford fosgate, kicker) all sound the same to me.
I need verification of the sizes from someone who has ripped their 2nd gen apart before. I don't want to cut holes, or modify anything, I just want it to look stock.
I'm looking at tossing my stock paper speakers for some quality replacements with an amp under the passenger seat for extra power.
I'm a stereo n00b, so I'll need some input.
I'm under the impression the measurements are as follows:
Front dash = 4"T (but 4" will fit)
Rear cargo floor = 5-1/4" (also heard 4")
Rear cargo roof tweeters = 1" (?)
What size amp would I ideally want to power these? I would assume a small one would do. How many watts would do the trick?
Brands aren't an issue, all the big names (sony, pioneer, kenwood, rockford fosgate, kicker) all sound the same to me.
I need verification of the sizes from someone who has ripped their 2nd gen apart before. I don't want to cut holes, or modify anything, I just want it to look stock.
06-27-2004, 04:16 AM
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i am thinking about doing the same thing but how would you go about getting to the speakers? would you just have to rip the sides off?? and i went to the infinity site and looked up the vehicle fit guide and got this for you http://www.mobiletoys.com/partners/i...NNER&YEAR=1991 but i dont know if infinity speakers are good...if you could...help me to how your getting to the speakers cause i have a 95 and ours are the same...thanks
06-27-2004, 08:48 AM
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One of the best places to find out what fits in your car is www.crutchfield.com
They are a little higher than some places but they provide some of the very best installation help departments that I have ever seen. They also include the plug and play wiring harnesses to work with your factory wiring....for FREE with the purchase. They also send you the printed instructions with pics on how to install the components in your model vehicle.
Scof... per Crutchfield here is what will fit in the factory openings: http://www.crutchfield.com/S-sYGc5HD....asp?s=0&cc=01
I would strongly recommend the replacement of all your factory speakers. What you did not say is what you are using for a dash unit. If it was mine I would put in a decent amp under the passenger seat, use it to power a sub in the back. And use the headunit to power the factory speaker locations. Good basic setup that should not cost too much.
They are a little higher than some places but they provide some of the very best installation help departments that I have ever seen. They also include the plug and play wiring harnesses to work with your factory wiring....for FREE with the purchase. They also send you the printed instructions with pics on how to install the components in your model vehicle.
Scof... per Crutchfield here is what will fit in the factory openings: http://www.crutchfield.com/S-sYGc5HD....asp?s=0&cc=01
I would strongly recommend the replacement of all your factory speakers. What you did not say is what you are using for a dash unit. If it was mine I would put in a decent amp under the passenger seat, use it to power a sub in the back. And use the headunit to power the factory speaker locations. Good basic setup that should not cost too much.
06-27-2004, 04:50 PM
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The sub is off the list, I don't want to compromise cargo space, nor do I want to cut into my rig.
Would an amp help to power the speakers alone?
I'm running an old Kenwood head unit with a Kenwood changer in the back.
Would an amp help to power the speakers alone?
I'm running an old Kenwood head unit with a Kenwood changer in the back.
06-27-2004, 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Scofco
The sub is off the list, I don't want to compromise cargo space, nor do I want to cut into my rig.
Would an amp help to power the speakers alone?
I'm running an old Kenwood head unit with a Kenwood changer in the back.
Would an amp help to power the speakers alone?
I'm running an old Kenwood head unit with a Kenwood changer in the back.
yes an amp would help power the speakers...how are you getting TO the speakers? cause i am about to get new components too but i dont know how TO get to them? thanks
06-27-2004, 06:29 PM
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The amp would help. A decent 4 channel unit should not cost you an arm and a leg. Plus the small size of the speakers means you won't probably need more than 30-50 watts per channel x 4 = 120-200 watts max in my opinion.
For good info on how to replace the factory speakers, etc. there are a couple of good sites to search on:
http://www.installdr.com/
http://www.the12volt.com/ (one of my favs)
Hope that helps.
For good info on how to replace the factory speakers, etc. there are a couple of good sites to search on:
http://www.installdr.com/
http://www.the12volt.com/ (one of my favs)
Hope that helps.
06-27-2004, 08:51 PM
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Originally Posted by 95toy4runner
yes an amp would help power the speakers...how are you getting TO the speakers? cause i am about to get new components too but i dont know how TO get to them? thanks
Just look for screws that look like they should come out, and start taking them out.
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06-27-2004, 09:39 PM
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1. forget stock speaker locations. they all suck.
2. get a nice component or a set of kick ass coaxes for the front door. get the biggest you can afford.
3. get a nice subwoofer
4. 4 channel amp to power all speakers. bridge 1 pair to power the sub. other 2 to power the front doors speakers. dont bother with rear speakers, unless you carry passengers back there all the time. you really dont need rear speakers unless you havea 5.1 DVD setup. stereo is still king. adding rear speakers can just ruin the setup.
2. get a nice component or a set of kick ass coaxes for the front door. get the biggest you can afford.
3. get a nice subwoofer
4. 4 channel amp to power all speakers. bridge 1 pair to power the sub. other 2 to power the front doors speakers. dont bother with rear speakers, unless you carry passengers back there all the time. you really dont need rear speakers unless you havea 5.1 DVD setup. stereo is still king. adding rear speakers can just ruin the setup.
06-29-2004, 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Scofco
I searched, and there wasn't really a definative thread on this topic, and some of the information was different in them. Hopefully this thread can clear it up.
I'm looking at tossing my stock paper speakers for some quality replacements with an amp under the passenger seat for extra power.
Don't bin the stock system. unless you are intending to spend loads of cash you can get a good sound from the existing speakers
Here is the info on my system built using the standard Toyota speakers and adding a little bit to it
(this was posted on the UK Forum)
If you want bass get a Sub - it needs to be a minimum of 8". for best results go to either 10" or 12" this depends on what you actually listen to. if you listen to classical 8" is fine on the other hand if you listen to R'n'B, Drum & Bass, Thrash Metal you'll really need something that can handle low sub-bass frequencies.
If you still have the OE speakers and they are working fine DO NOT bin them and certainly don't throw the little black boxes they fit into.
The stock Toyota ones are (front) 4" paper cone all range speakers @ 4 Ohms fitted into a purposely designed box which is ported.
(rear) 5 1/4" all range speakers @ 2 Ohms fitted into a purposely designed box which is ported & 2 x 3" Tweeters fitted into the rear headlining infront of the rear window.
I, like you, want decent sound in my truck and having built 2 sound-off cars, and fitted rucks of gear into my Artic, was not satisfied with the system that was already in place. I have looked at door builds, dash builds, boot builds and as Andy has said, sound deadening is a route to be followed.
In the end I opted to go with the OE gear, Why I hear you cry,
Basically because I couldn't face ripping the doors, dash,boot to bits just to fit stereo gear so I took a gamble and did it like this: -
Sony Head Unit with RCA Front & Rear connections to an Alpine 4 channel amp. This amp powers the OE speakers including the tweeters in the roof.
Dedicated Subwoofer RCA to an Alpine 2 channel amp. This amp is bridged into Mono mode and powers a 10" Jensen sub (my mate owns an ICE shop and I got it cheap!!)
I have up graded all the cabling including the power feeds,fuses etc
This system is LOUD, CLEAR and perfectly fine for all types of music.
I took it back to the ICE shop and they had a listen and the comments were "for a stock set of Amp'd up OE speakers - it's bl**dy good"
I'm a stereo n00b, so I'll need some input.
I'm under the impression the measurements are as follows:
Front dash = 4"T (but 4" will fit)
Yep 4" in a purpose built box
Rear cargo floor = 5-1/4" (also heard 4")
Yep these are run at 2 Ohms
Rear cargo roof tweeters = 1" (?)
No- these 3"
What size amp would I ideally want to power these? I would assume a small one would do. How many watts would do the trick?
These size of the amp is relative to the number and wattage of speakers you want to power.
EG - if you buy an amp which is rated at 4 x 50 watts RMS and you want to power 4 x 100 watt rms speakers the amp has to work twice as hard to achive max power. This is not good for the amp!! it will eventually give up (overheat) The way to do it is to buy an amp which is rated 4 x 100 rms and run 4 x 50 watt rms speakers. this way the amp will never run at full load and will happy play all day.
Remember all the amp does is reproduce the sound sent by the head unit.
Brands aren't an issue, all the big names (sony, pioneer, kenwood, rockford fosgate, kicker) all sound the same to me.
If that is the case it all comes down to price and your own preference of colour, size etc
I need verification of the sizes from someone who has ripped their 2nd gen apart before. I don't want to cut holes, or modify anything, I just want it to look stock.
I'm looking at tossing my stock paper speakers for some quality replacements with an amp under the passenger seat for extra power.
Don't bin the stock system. unless you are intending to spend loads of cash you can get a good sound from the existing speakers
Here is the info on my system built using the standard Toyota speakers and adding a little bit to it
(this was posted on the UK Forum)
If you want bass get a Sub - it needs to be a minimum of 8". for best results go to either 10" or 12" this depends on what you actually listen to. if you listen to classical 8" is fine on the other hand if you listen to R'n'B, Drum & Bass, Thrash Metal you'll really need something that can handle low sub-bass frequencies.
If you still have the OE speakers and they are working fine DO NOT bin them and certainly don't throw the little black boxes they fit into.
The stock Toyota ones are (front) 4" paper cone all range speakers @ 4 Ohms fitted into a purposely designed box which is ported.
(rear) 5 1/4" all range speakers @ 2 Ohms fitted into a purposely designed box which is ported & 2 x 3" Tweeters fitted into the rear headlining infront of the rear window.
I, like you, want decent sound in my truck and having built 2 sound-off cars, and fitted rucks of gear into my Artic, was not satisfied with the system that was already in place. I have looked at door builds, dash builds, boot builds and as Andy has said, sound deadening is a route to be followed.
In the end I opted to go with the OE gear, Why I hear you cry,
Basically because I couldn't face ripping the doors, dash,boot to bits just to fit stereo gear so I took a gamble and did it like this: -
Sony Head Unit with RCA Front & Rear connections to an Alpine 4 channel amp. This amp powers the OE speakers including the tweeters in the roof.
Dedicated Subwoofer RCA to an Alpine 2 channel amp. This amp is bridged into Mono mode and powers a 10" Jensen sub (my mate owns an ICE shop and I got it cheap!!)
I have up graded all the cabling including the power feeds,fuses etc
This system is LOUD, CLEAR and perfectly fine for all types of music.
I took it back to the ICE shop and they had a listen and the comments were "for a stock set of Amp'd up OE speakers - it's bl**dy good"
I'm a stereo n00b, so I'll need some input.
I'm under the impression the measurements are as follows:
Front dash = 4"T (but 4" will fit)
Yep 4" in a purpose built box
Rear cargo floor = 5-1/4" (also heard 4")
Yep these are run at 2 Ohms
Rear cargo roof tweeters = 1" (?)
No- these 3"
What size amp would I ideally want to power these? I would assume a small one would do. How many watts would do the trick?
These size of the amp is relative to the number and wattage of speakers you want to power.
EG - if you buy an amp which is rated at 4 x 50 watts RMS and you want to power 4 x 100 watt rms speakers the amp has to work twice as hard to achive max power. This is not good for the amp!! it will eventually give up (overheat) The way to do it is to buy an amp which is rated 4 x 100 rms and run 4 x 50 watt rms speakers. this way the amp will never run at full load and will happy play all day.
Remember all the amp does is reproduce the sound sent by the head unit.
Brands aren't an issue, all the big names (sony, pioneer, kenwood, rockford fosgate, kicker) all sound the same to me.
If that is the case it all comes down to price and your own preference of colour, size etc
I need verification of the sizes from someone who has ripped their 2nd gen apart before. I don't want to cut holes, or modify anything, I just want it to look stock.
I hope all the above helps.
06-30-2004, 12:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Scofco
:clap:
Couldn't have asked for a more perfect reply.
Thanks mate!
Couldn't have asked for a more perfect reply.
Thanks mate!
The sub issue is something to look at - mine is just in a box which then allows me to take it out if necessary. I'll try to take some pics today and post them on here for you
06-30-2004, 01:29 PM
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I am so glad this topic came up. I have been pondering this for a while now. I don't need an amp just to upgrade my stock speakers do I? Also if anyone has upgraded their speakers what do you have or what do you recommend?
06-20-2005, 03:13 PM
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I second this question... what are some good speaker to use... I know that I'll be spending some money on this one... what should I start looking at?? Thanks!!
06-21-2005, 06:40 AM
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I'd like to step in and suggest getting some "POLK AUDIO's".
I've got 4" POLK's front and back (on this one guy's advice), that fitted nicely into the stock enclosures, hooked to a 4 channel amp with a 12" sub in the back on it's own amp, and it sounds great...o.k., not "great", A-W-E-S-O-M-E would be more like it !!
p.s. Where are you guys getting the "5-1/4" speaker boxes from ? Is that stock ?
I've got 4" POLK's front and back (on this one guy's advice), that fitted nicely into the stock enclosures, hooked to a 4 channel amp with a 12" sub in the back on it's own amp, and it sounds great...o.k., not "great", A-W-E-S-O-M-E would be more like it !!
p.s. Where are you guys getting the "5-1/4" speaker boxes from ? Is that stock ?
Last edited by 94x4; 06-21-2005 at 06:49 AM.
07-20-2006, 05:00 PM
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Did you find any info on instructions/diagrams on how to remove the rear panels?
Originally Posted by Scofco
I replaced the front speakers in my old Toyota pickup, it's the same setup as our runners. The entire lower half of the dash has to come apart. I think I started with the section under the steering wheel and went from there. There is that piece, the ignition piece, the heater/ac piece, and the glovebox gets dropped out.
Just look for screws that look like they should come out, and start taking them out.
Just look for screws that look like they should come out, and start taking them out.
I was reading through the Thread and still haven't found anything to help me install new rear replacement speakers in my 4-runner. Has any one found anything definitive (instructions, diagrams) on how to accomplish this task?
07-20-2006, 05:28 PM
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that's because you literally have to rip those rear quarter panels away.
then the speaker boxes can be R&R.
1. remove seatbelts. undo 10mm (IIRC) bolt.
2. from rear area, remove the jamb plates. there are like 4-5 screws holding it down.
3. you may have to undo that upper piece where the light switch is. it's been so long...
then the whole rear quarter panel is just held on by FRICTION FIT fasteners. SLOWLY pull one end away from the metal. it will just pop off. there maybe 20 or so, mostly by the edges.
you dont have to fully pull it OFF the vehicle. just enough to get to the speaker box. the bottom part of the seatbelt can stay (IIRC).
but if i were you, screw the rear speakers... just get the best and biggest speakers up front. then buy a killer subwoofer to supplement it...
then the speaker boxes can be R&R.
1. remove seatbelts. undo 10mm (IIRC) bolt.
2. from rear area, remove the jamb plates. there are like 4-5 screws holding it down.
3. you may have to undo that upper piece where the light switch is. it's been so long...
then the whole rear quarter panel is just held on by FRICTION FIT fasteners. SLOWLY pull one end away from the metal. it will just pop off. there maybe 20 or so, mostly by the edges.
you dont have to fully pull it OFF the vehicle. just enough to get to the speaker box. the bottom part of the seatbelt can stay (IIRC).
but if i were you, screw the rear speakers... just get the best and biggest speakers up front. then buy a killer subwoofer to supplement it...
07-20-2006, 07:16 PM
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Im actually having problems getting my back panel speakers to work after i installed my new HU only the speakers above the rear window work... so im stumped because here is the catch. The back panel speaker and the speaker over the window are wired together. I took these pictures today and still havnt figured out my problem so if anyone has an answer to that then sendd some help my way.
07-21-2006, 06:47 AM
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The highlighted speakers are the speakers that no longer work now that I installed my new HU. I know the speakers arnt blown because I hooked up a different pair just to see if they would work (they didn't so its not a speaker problem.) The rear squawker speakers work but they are on the same wires as the back panel rear speakers so i dont understand what the problem is. Here is a wiring diagram take a look at it and send your suggestions.
Last edited by AJwhoisthat; 07-21-2006 at 11:23 AM.
