Dual T-case with custom 3 stick shifter
02-03-2011, 05:44 AM
#21
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well i started thinking about what you said, so i looked on the internet. some pictures that i found suggest that there is very little room between the tunnel and TC. i keep thinking of how to seal the shafts, machining, and ext.
it seems that i always get my best thinking done in the shower
anyways i had one of those.......uh...
...whats it called........an EPIPHANY or a eureka moment but rather than linkages on top or the sides, what i plan on doing is using control cables or push/pull cables.
all the mechanism will actually be in side the TC. once i get the solid-works dwg done ill post it if anyone cares to see what my blabbering is all about
but the cables will run to the shift levers still so i still will run a tri-stick setup. so long story short, cables takes place of linkages. the rear shifter assembly hopefully will only stick up about 3/8 to 1/2 of an inch. this might give me enough room not to cut the tunnel.
If you guys cant tell im excited for my idea, now whether it works or not thats a differnt story
it seems that i always get my best thinking done in the shower
anyways i had one of those.......uh...
...whats it called........an EPIPHANY or a eureka moment but rather than linkages on top or the sides, what i plan on doing is using control cables or push/pull cables.all the mechanism will actually be in side the TC. once i get the solid-works dwg done ill post it if anyone cares to see what my blabbering is all about
but the cables will run to the shift levers still so i still will run a tri-stick setup. so long story short, cables takes place of linkages. the rear shifter assembly hopefully will only stick up about 3/8 to 1/2 of an inch. this might give me enough room not to cut the tunnel.
If you guys cant tell im excited for my idea, now whether it works or not thats a differnt story
02-03-2011, 05:17 PM
#22
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There is plenty of room for a side linkage setup like mine. I would keep an eye out for a used twin stick or catch one on sale. Use the block and modify the shafts to drop down on the sides. My linkages were like $20. They are gocart aluminum tie rods. Build the front setup to just mount on top of the stock shifter.
thanks
02-03-2011, 05:21 PM
#23
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camo I think you had to have the 8' bed option for those two piece shafts with the center support. Even the ext cabs were still short wheel base I believe.
Anyway, this project looks pretty cool. Have no clue when it comes to dual cases really, but still like learning.
Anyway, this project looks pretty cool. Have no clue when it comes to dual cases really, but still like learning.
Extended cab/shortbeds have the same driveline as singlecab/long beds.
I think it was the body style change that implemented the new shaft. Dunno though.
02-03-2011, 07:30 PM
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Cables
well i started thinking about what you said, so i looked on the internet. some pictures that i found suggest that there is very little room between the tunnel and TC. i keep thinking of how to seal the shafts, machining, and ext.
it seems that i always get my best thinking done in the shower
anyways i had one of those.......uh......whats it called........an EPIPHANY or a eureka moment but rather than linkages on top or the sides, what i plan on doing is using control cables or push/pull cables.
all the mechanism will actually be in side the TC. once i get the solid-works dwg done ill post it if anyone cares to see what my blabbering is all about
but the cables will run to the shift levers still so i still will run a tri-stick setup. so long story short, cables takes place of linkages. the rear shifter assembly hopefully will only stick up about 3/8 to 1/2 of an inch. this might give me enough room not to cut the tunnel.
If you guys cant tell im excited for my idea, now whether it works or not thats a differnt story
it seems that i always get my best thinking done in the shower
anyways i had one of those.......uh...
...whats it called........an EPIPHANY or a eureka moment but rather than linkages on top or the sides, what i plan on doing is using control cables or push/pull cables.all the mechanism will actually be in side the TC. once i get the solid-works dwg done ill post it if anyone cares to see what my blabbering is all about
but the cables will run to the shift levers still so i still will run a tri-stick setup. so long story short, cables takes place of linkages. the rear shifter assembly hopefully will only stick up about 3/8 to 1/2 of an inch. this might give me enough room not to cut the tunnel.
If you guys cant tell im excited for my idea, now whether it works or not thats a differnt story
02-03-2011, 08:38 PM
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i appreciate all the tips and suggestions you guys have givin me thus far so heres some of my progress this far.
this is a design for shift rods and the groove that you see thats meant for o ring. what do you guys think?
this is a design for shift rods and the groove that you see thats meant for o ring. what do you guys think?
02-06-2011, 01:36 PM
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well heres the cable shifter dwg that i came up with. i dont know exactly how i think of this yet so out of the two what does everyone think of each one. open to comments.
please let me know what you think
also note the holes in the front, this is where the cable will come in and they will get clamped by the shifting forks.
please let me know what you think
also note the holes in the front, this is where the cable will come in and they will get clamped by the shifting forks.
Last edited by Eat_at_Joes; 02-06-2011 at 01:38 PM.
02-06-2011, 02:48 PM
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Nice work. My only question is whether the cable will be stiff enough to push the shift levers, especially for those who use heavy detent ball springs.
02-06-2011, 06:04 PM
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Cables
Your design show great merit.
So what's on the other end of the cables?
How long of cables? 6-7"
Are you just using steel wire wound rope(cable) and clamping them into the levers at each end?
Have you had the shifter out of your t-case yet and measured how far it is from the top of the shifter mounting surface to the shift forks in the t-case, it looks like your levers will stick too far into the t-case?
Not trying to bring you down, just brainstorming as I type. Carry on.
So what's on the other end of the cables?
How long of cables? 6-7"
Are you just using steel wire wound rope(cable) and clamping them into the levers at each end?
Have you had the shifter out of your t-case yet and measured how far it is from the top of the shifter mounting surface to the shift forks in the t-case, it looks like your levers will stick too far into the t-case?
Not trying to bring you down, just brainstorming as I type. Carry on.
02-07-2011, 02:25 PM
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02-07-2011, 02:47 PM
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Your design show great merit.
So what's on the other end of the cables?
How long of cables? 6-7"
Are you just using steel wire wound rope(cable) and clamping them into the levers at each end?
Have you had the shifter out of your t-case yet and measured how far it is from the top of the shifter mounting surface to the shift forks in the t-case, it looks like your levers will stick too far into the t-case?
Not trying to bring you down, just brainstorming as I type. Carry on.
So what's on the other end of the cables?
How long of cables? 6-7"
Are you just using steel wire wound rope(cable) and clamping them into the levers at each end?
Have you had the shifter out of your t-case yet and measured how far it is from the top of the shifter mounting surface to the shift forks in the t-case, it looks like your levers will stick too far into the t-case?
Not trying to bring you down, just brainstorming as I type. Carry on.
. anyways, i thought that i would be able to find a control cable short enough to work but the shortest i can find is 2' so right now im up in the air again about this idea. another potential issue is the strength and reliability of this setup.might have an idea thats a combination of the 2 setups so we'll see.......
stay tuned!!
02-07-2011, 10:09 PM
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well here is my latest design. the cable setup seemed to have to many issues and like i said i made a compromise of the 2.
the rods that come out will be bent into shape and both rods will go to the right so the shifter order is 2.27, 4.7, then 4wd. normally with a tri shift it would go 4.7, 2.27, then 4wd but having it this way would just annoy me.
once again lets hear the comments
and thanks for all that i have got!!
the rods that come out will be bent into shape and both rods will go to the right so the shifter order is 2.27, 4.7, then 4wd. normally with a tri shift it would go 4.7, 2.27, then 4wd but having it this way would just annoy me.
once again lets hear the comments
and thanks for all that i have got!!
02-08-2011, 09:01 PM
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nothing at all?? well the dual case right now might be on back order but hopefully soon i can get it to actually start fabrication.
Dont know if i said this but the plates will be milled out of aluminum and everything else will be t1 steel.
Cheers
Dont know if i said this but the plates will be milled out of aluminum and everything else will be t1 steel.
Cheers
02-09-2011, 05:53 AM
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thanks but no. i had a couple of ideas and just was wanting to see what everyone thought but i think im going to stick with this last design. just makes me mad that i will have to wait for the cases to arrive now
02-09-2011, 06:20 AM
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I'm glad you are doing this, it's good to see R&D online. Have you seen Dr. Smash's lever setup? Kind of the same idea but I don't think his were machined. Might want to check it out if you haven't. Oh, how are you going to seal the shafts so the oil doesn't seep out? Or dirt and water in?
02-09-2011, 03:12 PM
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well everything will be very tight tolerances but gasket maker will be between the 2 plates and a little will be put around the shafts. once its together move the shafts back and forth to help spread the gasket stuff, then as a added barrier, rubber strip with holes smaller than the rods to create a water tight seal on the outside.
if this sounds confusing let me know.
and after the gasket maker has dried free the rods by pushing and pulling to free the bond, however, if it goes according to plan i should have a great seal around the rods.
if this sounds confusing let me know.
and after the gasket maker has dried free the rods by pushing and pulling to free the bond, however, if it goes according to plan i should have a great seal around the rods.
Last edited by Eat_at_Joes; 02-09-2011 at 03:15 PM.
02-09-2011, 04:19 PM
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Sealing
well everything will be very tight tolerances but gasket maker will be between the 2 plates and a little will be put around the shafts. once its together move the shafts back and forth to help spread the gasket stuff, then as a added barrier, rubber strip with holes smaller than the rods to create a water tight seal on the outside.
if this sounds confusing let me know.
and after the gasket maker has dried free the rods by pushing and pulling to free the bond, however, if it goes according to plan i should have a great seal around the rods.
if this sounds confusing let me know.
and after the gasket maker has dried free the rods by pushing and pulling to free the bond, however, if it goes according to plan i should have a great seal around the rods.
Man I kill me I'm so funny.
