the_josh

hello all,
does anyone know a good starter welding kit to get?
i already know how to do Oxy-Acetyline Welding (still novice)
and im looking for a kit to get. im starting a full restoration on my 1969 chevelle and i will be doing some welding later on with the help of a professional welder and bodyman. so i wanna start practicing and also get a set that i will be able to use for the long run. what kinda recomendations do you guys have? and what type of welding is most related to car steels? Oxy-Ace, Mig, Tig (which i think is alittle outta my price range -especially pulse type) or others???


http://community.webshots.com/photo/...85727545iWPaLz

superjoe83

i would save up for a decent quality 220v MIG welder, my friend just bought a Hobart 175, for around $600-700 i think, he was going to buy a Miller, but i guess that the Hobart's are just rebaged Millers, thats what the guy said at the dealer anyway

mt_goat

I am very happy with my Miller Econotig, it's a 220volt AC/DC stick or TIG setup. It was about the $1200-$1400 price range if I remember right. Definitely get a 220 volt setup and DC is better than AC. A 220 MIG setup would be real nice too. If you ever watch American Chopper, they are either using MIG or TIG for their custom work. I see them using MIG for tack welding stuff and TIG for nice clean pretty continuious welds. If you all ready know how to Oxy-Acetyline Weld then TIG welding will be about the same.

Dan_90SR5

You don't need a 220v welder for anything on a car. I have a 110v Lincoln welder......the biggest 110v that they make and it has welded things on my dad's tractor that's alot thicker than the 1/4" that they say it'll weld. And yes it is penitrating.

A TIG is generally what is used on automotive stuff though. The welds are able to to be worked a bit for seamless welds.

The next best things would be MIG, which is what I have. It would be a good second choice, though you'll have to do more grinding.

I'd say that ARC welding would be ok for frame work and stuff like that. I wouldn't suggest one at all for body work.

And Oxy-Acetyline.......I don't trust anything welded this way. I know that some will say that it's a good method of welding, but I've seen too many things welded this way by professinal welders that fail after a few years of service.

Your cheapest and best bet is a 110v MIG welder. I think these are all around the best for general purpose. If you're going to be welding big stuff or for extended periods go up to a 220v.

mt_goat

Ok maybe the "biggest 110v that they make" would be ok, for lighter duty service, but I've seen some crap 110v welders so I thought they were all like that.

Dan_90SR5

Trust me, I know what you mean. Alot aren't worth the parts that they're made out of. I've seen some that are good for spot welded and that's about it. Definately, if you go with a 110v welder, go with the biggest one that you can find.

I'll say that with welding it depends on your style of welding or the knowledge that you have of the welding process. I can weld some pretty thick stuff with my little welder, and penitrate it, by simple slowing down and adjusting my wire feed accordingly.

The only thing that I can say is that if you don't know anyone with a big 110v MIG that you can try using, go with a 220v. The reason that I like the 110V though is that it's versital. Not everyone has a 220v outlet in their shop........though it's just a matter of having it wired up. But I can take my welder anywhere and weld something up for a friend. It's harder to do the with a 220v.

Anyway, just look at what all you're going to need to weld........which shouldn't be alot on a car restoration and buy accordingly.

the_josh

which type of 220 outlet would it be?
like a 3-prong or 4-prong dryer cord???
im moving into a new house in a few months and i can probably request to install one,

so if i get this right the best way to go is a 220 volt Tig welder and then maybe a mig???

mt_goat

Mine is a 3 prong but there are different 3 prong plugs so what I did was show the electrical contractor the plug and tell him the amps the welder takes. Mine takes a 50 amp breaker. Most dryers are 40 amp, I believe.

mt_goat

You probably don't need both just decide which will work the best for your needs and go with that one. The TIG is a lot slower than MIG and needs to be used indoors, out of any wind. I once read that you don't even want your dog to wag his tail while you're TIG welding. So if you're wanting to weld outdoors maybe a stick welder would be the best, I don't have much experience with MIG but if you're using a shielding gas, the wind is a bad thing. Now I think you can use MIG with a flux core wire and not have to use a shielding gas so maybe that would be the way to go if you're welding will be outside.

kyle_22r

really depends on what you're welding with TIG that you wouldn't want any breeze. stuff like mild steel is no big deal, but when you get into aluminum, chromoly or stainless you really need to have good shielding.

mig is just as bad in the wind, but you can run flux core wire so that can be overcome.

i like stick welding myself(WABO structural certified), i can even do pretty light gauge stuff if you give me some really small 6013 and run it on AC or DCEN. i actually find it more fun that tig, mig, or flux core. i can weld stainless with it, and you don't have to worry about wind blowing away your shielding gas.

mt_goat

The problem I have had with TIG in the slightest wind is my tungsten tip get oxidized and stops the arc.

Shane

If you're having one installed ask for a 220v single phase 50amp outlet. Then install a matching plug on your welding equipment when you get it, a lot of units don't even come with one.

I'd say go with a decent 110v mig (make sure it's got a gas kit) to start out, it will do all the body work you could think of and is very easy to learn.