Gamefreakgc

I didn't have a tight enough seal so I rigged a pitcher so only a slow trickle came out. I closed up the PCV hose with a narrow funnel (also to keep it from dying). Good to have a fail safe just in case since I couldn't suck it up through a vacuum hose.

I think it was around 2500-3000 RPM, not sure since I was doing it from the engine, not the cab.

RussToy

iTrader: (1)

I attempted to look this up on Mobil 1's web site; however, they do not address this issue. Therefore, I looked around at other sites. According to Castrol, synthetic oils will not creat oil leaks in older engines...they say this is a "myth"...actually they say its better for the enging and its gaskets and seals.

So, go for it...

DRCOFFEE

A few years back I seafoamed my vette. What I did to restrict a sudden and massive inflow of seafoam was duct tape the straw you typically get with brake cleaner and wd40 to a length of hose and then connected it to the PCV line. That straw is small enough to slow the flow to prevent too much liquid from being ingested. Plus I could sit inside the car and throttle up above 1500 rpm while feeding the seafoam. . It worked well. I think it may help aerosolize the fluid as well.

Texas_Ace

The idea is good, same thing I do with smaller vacuum line. That straw is a little too small though. It won't feed fast enough to give the seafoam the ability to stick to the carbon and thus clean it.

You want to get enough seafoam in there to stick to everything without passing right through. Then kill the engine while everything is coated to let it work.

SPARKS89

iTrader: (1)

I'm not ragging on anybody. Just wanted to add my thoughts.

I've heard many people say that synthetic oils will create leaks. I don't think this is the case. Synthetic oils are man-made, not refined/processed natural oil. I believe because of this they can be 'tailor-made' to do whatever the manufacturer wants them to do...including clean the engine with added detergents/cleaning agents. I don't see how an engine oil can 'cause' a leak. I have used Castrol Edge for a couple of years and am now looking into the Redline brand to see if it's worth trying. I have used Royal Purple oil in an older chevy and did have existing valve cover leaks increase. What I found was that the oil was cleaning away the sludge and allowing oil to leak thru the already bad gasket. The oil would have to eat thru the seal (whatever it may be made of) to cause a leak. The only way it would damage a seal is if not enough oil was lubricating the seal and it dried out or got chewed up which would happen with regular oil anyway because that's an oil circulation problem in the engine itself. And since synthetic oils are measured to the same API (American Petroleum Institute) standards as conventional oils they have to perform to the same minimum requirements.

I switched to synthetic oils a few years ago and have had no problems with them. I have noticed that over time the old oil has come out cleaner than it used to with conventional oils which tells me that over time the synthetic oil was cleaning out a lot of crap in the engine. I would much rather find an oil leak and bad gasket somewhere and replace it instead of having sludge in my engine holding it together.

DRCOFFEE

Well I took the plunge and put MMO in the oil and some in the gas tank. Then ran some seafoam through the intake yesterday, let it sit for an hour and then started the motor. Wow what a cloud of smoke it made. Hopefully the seafoam softened the crud up and the MMO in the fuel will clean it of completely.

I will run the oil for 3000 miles or until it looks blacker than usual.

*On a side note, last spring I had a dead fuel injector #4. We had to limp the truck home about 2 miles. Does that do permanent damage to the cylinder or rings if its not getting gas?

Texas_Ace

Exactly, it won't cause a leak, it will just clean out sludge that is blocking a leak that is already there. Like you I would rather clean that out then have it in the engine ready to break loose and cause all sorts of problems.

3000 miles is way too long to wait IMO. I would go no more then 1000 miles the first time. Use cheap oil the first time to save money. I generally use RotellaT from Walmart anytime I know I will only be running the oil for a short period of time (engine break in, cleaning ect).

No, a dead injector should not hurt anything. The lubrication comes primarily from the oil system.

Gamefreakgc

I'm officially a believer of the water injection. I did seafoam about a week prior to the water+seafoam injection on my old pickup and it helped a little but no performance improvement beside a bettle idle. After the water and seafoam injection I've noticed an increase in power in high RPM's and better throttle response. Also, when I ran the seafoam through the second time I had almost no smoke, meaning I had little carbon buildup left in the engine. My engine used to wobble real bad due to low compression in cylinder #5 but it's only a small vibration now! All that and I still haven't got around to change my spark plugs.

I also ran MMO in the oil and gas prior to the cleaning. My truck has 279k miles with small oil leaks and I haven't notice any change (the oil keeps the rust away right? ).

Texas_Ace

Glad to heat it worked for you! That is what I have found as well. By using the water first you clean out a lot of the big stuff and then let the seafoam come along and clean up the smaller/harder to clean buildup.

Sounds like it is about as clean as you can get it for now, you will find that after some more miles if you run another treatment it will generally be able to clean more out due to it being "loosened" from driving. Or it could really be completely clean.

The MMO in the oil I have a feeling did more for the low compression then the seafoam. At least that is what happened on my truck. The seafoam did great work on the top end but my compression only ever marginally improved until I put it in the oil. Then it started working on the rings and compression jumped up quick.

It is the combo of all of these treatments together that I have found to have the most noticeable difference.

crawler85

there are parallels with all of this and military aircraft maintenance.....

at the end of every day for an aircraft we do an engine wash where we crank the engine over for a minute and pump water through it. It gets pushed right through and out the exhaust due to the design of the jet engine (no hydrolock issues). It is rinsing out the particulates that accumulated during the day. the intake does not have as fine a filter as an automobile, so I would guess that it accumulates more due to this and the sheer volume of air that goes through it.

We then do a "burn out" and dry out the engine by running it for a few minutes.

This parallels the water portion that varies a little to prevent hydrolock.

After a certain amount of hours (such as an automobile oil change interval) we do an engine soak for a few minutes with a cleaner, then rinse and burnout.

This parallels the seafoam in the intake.

_________

There is nothing we do that parallels adding fuel injector cleaner or adding oil additives.

However, the intake portion makes sense.

I would be inclined to say that this method could be done to extend the life of an already strong and healthy engine. The interval I would think could be much longer than at every oil change.

DailyDrive

Well I tried this before changing the spark plugs to new ones, and didn't notice any of the build up removed from the old spark plugs. They looked the same before and after the treatment. Looking into the cylinder with a flashlight looked the same also.

Texas_Ace

You won't notice any change on the spark plugs, in fact they can get dirtier. Which is why I recommend changing them after.

Looking into the cylinder also won't look much different, it won't clean the piston down to the metal, there will still be a layer of carbon on it pretty much no matter what you do so it will look the same to you.

Got to go by the way it drives, MPG, power and Vacuum to see the benefits.

Like I posted in the OP, my vacuum improved from ~-20inhg to ~-22inhg. That is hard data that shows it improved the engines efficiency even thought I could not visually see any difference in the cylinder or spark plugs. Add to that the improved response, power and MPG and I can safely say that it worked for me.

Urban Assault

Thanks TA for the write-up! I did the MMO/SF portion. I can notice the benefit, and it resolved a subtle misfire I was having. I have 300k miles on my engine, and I am the orginal owner so I notice every little change. I took a few pics and put them on my build page: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f200...l#post52023031

Thanks again!

Smiklemeyer

Hi, I had been researched MMO and came upon this thread, so I had to register to I could post.
I am planning on using MMO in both the oil and gas in all three of my rigs. I'm also going to use Seafoam thru a vaccuum line. I'm not quite ready to try the water treatment or seafoam in my crankcase. I can't afford to pay for any repairs that might come from my mistakes. ( Money is tight in this economy).
My 95 Grand Cherokee has a slightly rough idle that I havn't been able to fix and also has a slight noisy lifter. I'm hoping using MMO will fix the problem.
I have read through this entire thread and the process that TA explains sounds reasonable and could very well make a difference. I will be sure and post the results to my experiments.

SPARKS89

iTrader: (1)

I changed my oil this past weekend and replaced 1 qt. of oil with a quart of MMO. According to the MMO label you can do this and then do regular oil change intervals. This is the first time I've done this so I'm going to keep and eye on everything and see how it does. I have already noticed a difference with the engine....mainly on warm starts. I used to get some knocking on a warm start, but now it's smooth and quiet. The oil still looks good, but it's only been a few days. I have some leaks so if the MMO does as good as everyone says then I'm sure those leaks will get worse. It will be good to find them so I can replace bad seals. I haven't done a compression test yet to see if that has been affected. I'll do that at the next oil change.

Texas_Ace

If it is your first time using it I would recommend changing the oil at 1000-2000 miles the first time as that is when the bulk of the junk will get cleaned out and you don't want it hanging around.

I now do this and go 3k-5k between changes like normal.

SPARKS89

iTrader: (1)

I figure I'd change it around 1k to 1500 and step it back up depending on how dirty it looks. I'm going to pull the front diff and oil pan this spring. I've already got some leaks that I want to take care of so I can clean it out really good then too.

hilgeg

TA - for those of us that run meth/water injection on a daily basis can we skip the water cleaning and go straight to Seafoam? I remember earlier in this post you talking about how that works the same slowly over time. I'm due for an oil change so it's time to put MMO and Seafoam to the test. I half-way wonder if I could just add the mix to my Snowperformance water/meth kit and crank up the volume??

DRCOFFEE

Is there no fear of breaking the oil rings with too much pressure from non-compressible fluids in the combustion chamber?

What about putting seafoam in thru the spark plug holes and let sit for a few hours until it dissolves the carbon and turn the crank by hand a few times to distribute the solvent. Then follow that with MMO the same way but let it sit overnight to lube and soften the carbon. Then using the starter with the spark plugs out, spin the motor to clear the liquid MMO out. Fire it up to finish the cleaning.

Texas_Ace

Depending on how much you inject it will clean the engine out over time. Still won't hurt to do a little extra water but it is optional regardless of weather you have meth injection or not.

DO NOT put anything but water or methanol into the meth injection kit. Any petroleum based products in it will eat the seals in a hurry.

No, you are putting in such a ridiculously small amount of water/seafoam it is not even a concern if you follow the directions and keep the RPM's above ~3k when doing this. I listed out the math showing this on here.

I have actually tried putting cleaners down the spark plug holes and letting it sit before. It worked ok but not as well as doing it while it is running. The heat and steam action is what really makes it work.

This is all a completely optional procedure, if you don't feel comfortable doing it then don't. This is simply what has worked wonders for me.