Rotted Rear End
#21
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That much rust on the rear housing seems un-natural....I'm thinking that the rusting from the UJ back has some other scientific reason....something to do with salt and electrolysis and static electricity from a high speed driveshaft. It is interesting that the rear axle housing and the leafpacks are isolated from the rest of the frame by rubber spring bushings. The leafpacks were rusted badly also?
edit---oops...forgot the Runners here have the coils....cancel that thought about rubber bushing isolation....
This concept of rust is unfamiliar to us guys down here in Arizona. Sounds like someone could make good money sending bare axle housing back to the New England states. I just gave away a 1997 rear Runner housing that had no trace of rust and still had the factory stickers on it for free to a local here.
edit---oops...forgot the Runners here have the coils....cancel that thought about rubber bushing isolation....
This concept of rust is unfamiliar to us guys down here in Arizona. Sounds like someone could make good money sending bare axle housing back to the New England states. I just gave away a 1997 rear Runner housing that had no trace of rust and still had the factory stickers on it for free to a local here.
Last edited by ZUK; 08-08-2011 at 12:13 PM.
#22
That much rust on the rear housing seems un-natural....I'm thinking that the rusting from the UJ back has some other scientific reason....something to do with salt and electrolysis and static electricity from a high speed driveshaft. It is interesting that the rear axle housing and the leafpacks are isolated from the rest of the frame by rubber spring bushings. The leafpacks were rusted badly also?
edit---oops...forgot the Runners here have the coils....cancel that thought about rubber bushing isolation....
This concept of rust is unfamiliar to us guys down here in Arizona. Sounds like someone could make good money sending bare axle housing back to the New England states. I just gave away a 1997 rear Runner housing that had no trace of rust and still had the factory stickers on it for free to a local here.
edit---oops...forgot the Runners here have the coils....cancel that thought about rubber bushing isolation....
This concept of rust is unfamiliar to us guys down here in Arizona. Sounds like someone could make good money sending bare axle housing back to the New England states. I just gave away a 1997 rear Runner housing that had no trace of rust and still had the factory stickers on it for free to a local here.
You want to give another one away for free, you just let me know. There are a couple guys up here that will need one soon enough.
#23
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ManyMods you need to report this to NHTSA if you didn't already. My rear end is almost rotted to the point of leaking and the frame had to be repaired due to rust. The more we tell our stories the more chance Toyota may be forced to do something.
#24
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You will not be pleased with what I am about to say, but I don’t have the time to start a campaign with Toyota on this issue, not that I am made of money. I am not! In the past I went after GM on a POS Corvette I bought and American Motors on a ’79 Jeep I bought that was rusting when I took delivery (grew up driving Jeeps). To make a long story short, after they agreed to fix all the rust and repaint the vehicle ‘Corporate’ asked me to please never buy another one of their vehicles. I have honored that and have never owned another Jeep vehicle.
I am okay with getting my vehicle repaired the way I did, and as much as I love my Gen 3 4Runner I want to figure out a way to get a new 2012 4Runner if I can. I like the look of it and from what I can tell it is the right replacement for the one I have now. The only problem is that I did so many things to customize mine that the dealer would have to take it to auction so I would lose big $$$ time. I would probably have to trade in my Avalon too in order to make this work right now. I will not have a car payment. My 4R fits me like a ‘snug’ glove and it still looks great. Paying $30K plus cash for a vehicle and immediately putting an additional ~$10K into it makes it harder to part with it, if you know what I mean. I do want to say one thing in defense of Toyota; they run forever and are practically maintenance free. I bought a ’95 Corolla as a used rental car and with 168K miles on it, the damn thing won’t die. It got one of my kids through college and now my wife prefers driving it to the Avalon. She just crushed a deer with it and I just repaired the front end damage. I call it her little ‘road warrior’. But she has to learn that deer travel in two’s, so when the first one crosses the road – wait!
Hey, if and when I sell it you guys may reap the benefit because I have a full set of custom Addco sway bars, custom end links, bushing and an in the box TRD exhaust system that I was saving as ‘spares’.
BTW, my dealer is still replacing frames on Taco’s. Can you believe it! Toyota’s problems are not over by a long shot so stay tuned and you will see when they announce the next rust recall.
I want to thank the members who responded to my quiry and offered their opinions and experience with this problem. Keep your receipts because you may have recourse if and when Toyota has to deal with this problem.
#25
99 4Runner rear differential rusted/fixed (remedy performed and suggested) WHAT NOW?!
Scraped off rust flakes, found a 1"x1" nearly square hole about 2" below the parking brake wire harness.
Then drained the rear diff, thank God the drain plug came out.
Cleaned up all the rust with a scraper then wire brush drill bit down to fresh metal.
Applied J-B Weld. That was allowed to cure for one hour. Then realized the fill plug was so badly rusted and the bolt was stripped- thank perhaps to rusting and/or Jiffy Lube mechanics who worked on changing my diff fluid a few years back.
Had to drill a hole above the fill bolt to pump in 2.6 quarts of gear oil. J-B welded shut the artificial fill hole.
Hoping for the best. I am unsure of my best move: should I sell it privately? Should I wait to see if there will be some sort of Toyota recall this far out?
:p issed::pis sed::pisse d:
Then drained the rear diff, thank God the drain plug came out.
Cleaned up all the rust with a scraper then wire brush drill bit down to fresh metal.
Applied J-B Weld. That was allowed to cure for one hour. Then realized the fill plug was so badly rusted and the bolt was stripped- thank perhaps to rusting and/or Jiffy Lube mechanics who worked on changing my diff fluid a few years back.
Had to drill a hole above the fill bolt to pump in 2.6 quarts of gear oil. J-B welded shut the artificial fill hole.
Hoping for the best. I am unsure of my best move: should I sell it privately? Should I wait to see if there will be some sort of Toyota recall this far out?
:p issed::pis sed::pisse d:
#27
I know it's a while later....wanted to add that the same thing happened to mine! My friend said he's only seen this 2x...now 3, with the OP's. Rotted right out.
We got a complete rear axle with lockers my friend wanted, so I trade them to him in exchange for a day of help! We got the new housing in, new U-bolts were needed. Used my axles. The whole thing cost $100.....I'd say that was a pretty good deal!
We got a complete rear axle with lockers my friend wanted, so I trade them to him in exchange for a day of help! We got the new housing in, new U-bolts were needed. Used my axles. The whole thing cost $100.....I'd say that was a pretty good deal!
#28
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friend called me the other day and said his DIFF was rusting out at the pinion flange. another cape codder....
manymods.. u must have the sickest runner on that little island. allways wanted to explore out there
manymods.. u must have the sickest runner on that little island. allways wanted to explore out there
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