noahrexion

Ok all, this will be my first post where I really need ya'all

1997 SR5, 4WD, 16" wheel package (brakes), 5sp manual

Ok so... it seems as if my brakes are seizing up but only when cold (its either very hard to notice when it warms up and/or Ive been driving, or I jsut don't notice it as much). It seems like its only coming from the rear, but to be honest Im not totally sure. If my truck is parked for a while and I drop the e-brake and throw her in reverse or 1st to pull out there is a very noticable resistance and sometimes it will even feel as if I didn't drop the e-brake and make a thud as if the wheels just broke losse from being held by the brakes.

I can give it gas in 1st and put it in nuetral and cruise to a very unnatural stop as the brakes are definetly applied here. Now granted I haven't really checked out everything yet as I didn't want to start pulling things apart cause its cold and I haven't had to much time. I will end up getting up in there this weekend or the next before the snow starts hitting; I just wanted to see if there has been any issues with any of ya'alls trucks like this.

I know about the warped rotor deal, but that is about all Ive heard. First thing I plan to check is the drum adjustment to make sure its not to tight. I just find this whole thing weird cause I just started noticing this a few weeks ago ( I don't drive it to much ) and I know it wasn't hapenign before. Because of this it makes me worried that either the wheel cylinders are sticking a bit or the calipers are sticking a bit and that sucks because both are expensive

Anything you all may suggest to check out in specific? If not Ill just diagnose the nutts out of her and find whatever it is this weekend. Thanks all,

Austin

eric-the-red

Sounds like your parking brake levers are seizing up, which keeps the rear shoes applied against the drums. You'll have to pull the drums off and lube them, or worst case replace them. The more you drive before fixing it the more you'll wear off the rear brakes.

noahrexion

Interesting... are you referring to the spring mechanism on the back of the drum by the diff housing? I guess Ill have to check those, that would make sense though.

Ya I have only driven when I really had to... which was about 3 times in the last 2 weeks Ive just been driving the GF's car for now. Ill check that out this weekend, thanks for the reply mate,

Austin

Localmotion

I actually am having the same problem. I havent had the time to take the rears off. IM hoping i can just spray brake cleaner all over the badboy and be done with it.

khaug

Another possibility: Third-generation 'Runners have problems with rear axle seals failing and allowing differential lube to saturate the rear brakes. This causes the lining material to swell.

Check the inside of your rear wheels to see if there's gear lube splattered there. If so, you've found the problem. Note that even if you don't see gear lube there, this still may be the problem. Pulling a brake drum will give you a definitive answer.

Rick F.

I had that same problem last year when it began getting cold. I couldn't find anything wrong and neither did the dealership. My symptoms were the same as you describe plus I'd notice it on occasion while rolling to a stop. My vehicle would stop abruptly during the last 1-2 mph of deceleration, as if I had nailed the brakes; NOT something you want on slippery roads. I'm concerned that it'll start doing it again as it gets colder.

If you figure it out, please post it.

MTL_4runner

Mine had the same issue with the parking brake levers getting frozen in place from rust. You need to disassemble them, grind off any rust, regrease them and everything should work as it should. If you want to test them, go under the rear of the 4runner and yank on the parking brake cable that links them together. If they are ok, the levers will move quite readily, if they are seized, they will be sticky or have no movement at all.

You can see the cable and one lever arm (other is just out of sight) in this pic:

ohio4runner4x4

I had a similar problem with my 97 too....the right rear felt like it was hanging up and would lock up on gravel....I thought maybe I had a busted spring so I pulled the drum....the shoe and drum were covered with a greasy, sticky goo.....I thought it was brake fluid leaking, but there were no leaks. Cleaned the shoe and drum with brake cleaner and its fine now....But after what khaug said....I'm gonna recheck for leaky axle seals....

noahrexion

Ya well my axle seals are fine, I replaced both a few months back. I think it is the e brake deal. I will be hitting it up this weekend and Ill take pics of all that I find and keep everyone posted as this seems like its not just me with this issue.

Rick F.

I don't use my e-brake and still had the problem last winter. Guess I'll have to begin tearing things open sometime in the next couple of weeks if the symptoms reappear.

MTL_4runner

It has nothing to do with whether you use your e-brake or not, it is all tied into the self-adjusting part of the drum brake.
.....I never use my e-brake either.

Bennito

My right rear stuck due to a axle seal (believe in this case it was the inner - the easy one to fix). Seal leaked slowly enough that it gummed up in the drum and barely dripped to the wheel. Took close inspection to notice the drip. Year later that wheel leaked again. No hanging up with the brake - but it was the press-fit seal that had to be replaced.

Point being, the dealer did the work (on the press-fit seal) - and had to redo it 3 weeks later. (So you may do a quick check just to make sure the seals are holding up).

Rick F.

Thanks, Jamie. I'm not familiar with brakes but I'll open 'er up sometime and take a gander. Never too old to learn...

noahrexion

Ok so I went under there today and checked out these: on each side.

I adjusted them a little bit to give it a little more slack and it did nothing. Then both seemed to move freely with no holdups. Now I am wondering if I am gonna have to take the drum off to see whats going on.

I am assuming this is what you were talking about MTL, or is it not? There isn't any rust or anything on mine, Im not to sure what to look for tomorrow. Any ideas fellas? Thanks!

JamesD

I want to add to this also. Inside the drum is a fulcrum or pivot that attaches to that outer parking brake lever with a 2" little cable inside the drum. Make sure that pivots freely. Every 4wd Toy I ever worked on always seems to be seized up.

James

leebee

Check the inside of your rear wheels to see if there's gear lube splattered there. If so, you've found the problem.

if there is gear oil leaking, you can smell it. it has a distinct smell, the same as leaking coolant has a distinct odor to it.

lee

noahrexion

Thanks for everyones input on this so far. James, that was not the issue with mine. My drums were very hard to pull off on both sides telling me the shoes were obviously tightly pushed against them.

I also noted after pulling the drum off and applying the regular brake that the RR sides adjusting level (part with the teeth that you can adjust from the back plate) was getting stuck behind the adjuster.

Pic 1 is how it is supposed to be when applying the brakes or not, Pic 2 shows what my RR side is doing when applying the brake. Because the adjuster is getting wedged there, it is holding a certain amount of pressure on the shoes thus making my wheel stick/stop the car.




So I adjusted both sides shoes to back off the drums a little more and for now it seemed to have solved the problem. I don't know if my adjusters are failing or the one side is cracked and its getting wedged because it is not follwing the spring when the brake is applied. Or is all I had to do was adjust the damn shoes to back off a bit, because now instead of 4 clicks for my e-brake to work, it is within the normal specifications of 7-11 clicks and it feels a lot better now.

I am a bit worried as something tells me it isn't this easy and that I will have to replace something. But like I said, Ill keep this thread alive until i KNOW that its fixed and what it was. Ill just cross my fingers and hope I did it tonight

MTL_4runner

Yes, those were what I was talking about but from the look of inside your drums (totally rust free) that any seizing is only from lack of grease. Your pic 1 looks right but I am not sure why the adjuster is overtighening on its own. Make sure the adjuster screw is greased well too. Usually people have the reverse problem from what you are experiencing so something is definately not right. Take both drums off and compare hardware position and condition to see if you can spot the problem (I can't see anything in the pics except the catch is not sitting on the adjuster correctly).

Keep the pics coming, it helps alot for diagnosis.

noahrexion

that is the same catch, the only difference between the pics is that the second pic is after the brake pedal has been pushed. What I was saying is the I think the adjuster is malfunctioning somehow. its really hard to explain what i saw.

I did have both sides off and the "good" side adjuster seemed to move with thw spring when the brake was applied and the wheel cylinder moved the shoes outward. This, from what i know, is exactly what is supposed to happen, as it allows the catch to STAY on the adjuster and not get wedged against it making the shoes stick. My other side I think the actual adjuster assembly is possibly broken somehow because it pulls apart when the brake is applied thus causing the "catch" that you say to be pulled with the shoes and thus go behing the adjuster and get stuck. when this happens it doesnt allow the shoes to retract from the drum all the way causing the "stuck" position that I have been having trouble with.

A lot to explain but I could show someone threw email with more pics if anyone is interested. If anyone is having this problem and it is not: rust, leaking seals or any of that email me and i can prolly help out, or PM

MTL_4runner

Ok, I think I have a pretty good idea of what you mean. You want to look at all the pivot points and be sure none are sheared off or excessively loose. Also look for broken or missing springs and that all clips are in place where they should be. I think you are on the right trail for sure and I am am sure that is certianly what is causing you stuck brake condition but it is difficult to diagnose without seeing it in person since I have not experianced what you are mentioning with my truck.

Has anyone worked on your brakes before this started happening?

Not sure if you have seen this but it may help if you need to disassemble the "bad" side to find out what is wrong:
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/4Runne...enance/brakes/