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Pre-empting the Strawberry milkshake

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Old 06-30-2010, 05:06 AM
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Mahalo! I too am leaning that way as I remember having a factory oil gauge in my first 4x4, 1970 Ford Bronco. I could tell when I needed to add oil as the gauge would be ever so slightly lower, so I knew that it was just above the "ADD" mark.

Noticed you have a '98 same as me, so I take it you can monitor voltage? I have heard that the scangauge will not monitor all the parameters that it does on the 99-02. Will have to get some input from the guys who have one in their 96-98 4runner what they can monitor vs the 99-02 4runner.

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Old 06-30-2010, 05:36 AM
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Just a note, if you have an electric gauge with only one wire going to the sensor you will probably need to add a ground wire. Some sensors rely on the sensor threads to provide the grounding and the in-line sensor block wouldn't provide that spliced onto a rubber hose. Mechanical gauge sensors of course don't need a ground.
Old 06-30-2010, 05:51 AM
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Originally Posted by mt_goat
Just a note, if you have an electric gauge with only one wire going to the sensor you will probably need to add a ground wire. Some sensors rely on the sensor threads to provide the grounding and the in-line sensor block wouldn't provide that spliced onto a rubber hose. Mechanical gauge sensors of course don't need a ground.
Gr8 point! This is a must for consideration. Thank you again for re-emphasising a critical point! This is another consideration to take into account if you plan on doing this mod and being able to monitor the results.

My SunPro gauge kit is a mechanical gauge kit with the exception of the voltage gauge. The individual gauges that match this gauge kit were $17 each verses the all electric type at $59 each. The mechnical temperature gauges have a hard line from the sensor bulb incased in a spiral protective spring. They are considerably cheaper then all electric sensors. the only limiting factor to placement is the location of the proble sensor line. The electrics can be located pretty much anywhere as you can splice in more wire if more distance is needed to hook up the gauge.

When I ultimately get everything finalized I will put together a complete writeup using all the input and pieces from this thread as well as from others inputs and the experience and monitir results. Keep the comments, ideas and critiques coming!
Old 07-01-2010, 12:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Ritzy4Runner
Mahalo! I too am leaning that way as I remember having a factory oil gauge in my first 4x4, 1970 Ford Bronco. I could tell when I needed to add oil as the gauge would be ever so slightly lower, so I knew that it was just above the "ADD" mark.

Noticed you have a '98 same as me, so I take it you can monitor voltage? I have heard that the scangauge will not monitor all the parameters that it does on the 99-02. Will have to get some input from the guys who have one in their 96-98 4runner what they can monitor vs the 99-02 4runner.
Yes, my scangauge is able to read the battery voltage on my 98. The only gauge that I know of that doesn't work on 96-98 that does on 99-02 is the automatic transmission fluid temperature x-gauge.
Old 07-01-2010, 06:10 AM
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Running the gauge lines

Decided to go with the oil pressure gauge. Now I am trying to determine the best route for the gauge lines. I got the gauges installed in the radio bezel, what a PITA! Initially routing the gauge lines through the firewall just above the accelerator, but I don't think I will have enough line to make it all the way to the passenger side and down to the transmission hard lines to splice in the brass 'T' for the sensor. Is it possible to route these lines back underand out to the transmission via the shifter access hole? Not totally sure so wanted to ask if anyone else has done this. Will post up some more pics later it got late and work comes early.

Where the heck is the oil sender on the 3.4? Looks as if I will have to install a threaded 'T' block to mount the oil line as well as the sender for the idiot light. thanks more as its available
Old 01-24-2016, 02:22 PM
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Ok so help bring this thread up to date, I had issues with the mechanical gauges from Sunpro I installed and even had one of them get super-heated from where I had to route them and it became brittle and broke. I was able to use the brass 'T' fittings I had installed but after purchasing new electical/digital gauges I removed the adapters from the T-blocks so that the new gauge sensors would screw directly into them. I ended up installing the new gauges the same way as the mechanical ones in the console, but the transmission electrical lines were routed through the firewal on the right side. Still considering drilling new hole and installing a rubber grommet to facilitate the original install. More on that but I have posted a ne thread on the Coolant temperature install.
Old 09-07-2023, 01:40 PM
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Hello again YotaTechers!. Yes I am still alive and still have my 98 4runner. So I ended up with a bit of a project so this is a continuation of a rather "old" thread I sarted many years ago. Life happens. So I had an issue with the driver side fender and doors on my runner as it appears that my truck was in an accident before I purchased it. The paint had faded, peeled and primer eroded on almost the entire left side of my runner. On my last trip to SoCal in June, I ventured into the local pick-a-part and found a 97 4runner in desert dune metallic. A story for another time. I had to remove the entire front off my 4runner to replace the front fender so while there I decided to replace the radio antenna as well. Now that I have access to the transmission coolers I had previously installed, I am in the process of revisiting this thread. I have no idea on how to post pics of this anymore as Photobucket no longer supports "free" pic hosting. Still do not know how my pics of the beginning of this mod are still visible so if someone would like to "coach" me on that I will add pics too.

So there still is the issue of purging the Explorer coolers as well as utilizing both coolers or only using one then if necessary adding the second. They have been living in the locations as shown above and have been capped off sine intial installation. I need recommendations on best way to flush these coolers so as to not have cross contamination between Ford ATF and Toyota ATF. As a reminder I am still using the Taurus 2 speed electric fan mod. I do not have a working low speed setup anymore that operates the slow speed based on coolant temperature. Still need to find the optimum controller for that. I still have the set up for the manual overide of the high speed and had to use it on my last trip to SoCal pulling a 5x8 U-Haul and I was able to monitor the temps of the tranny and radiator on my digital/analog gauges I installed. I rarely use the 4runner to tow and if I do it is not long distances and not heavy loads but still a concern and I monitor my gauges,

What is the consensus on my using the Explorer tranny coolers and their current physical locations? What is the recommended flushing process for cleaning this out and then filling them with Toyota grade transmission fluid? I know it seems like a lot of work and there are probably easier work arounds but I am this far into it, just need some input and if I should continue with this mod or not.
Old 12-06-2023, 11:39 AM
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Still hoping someone can assist with recommendations on this mod. Would really like to put my truck back together.
Old 12-09-2023, 05:08 PM
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I would either make or buy a pressure bleeder and adapt it to fit the cooler lines. Then just use some sacrificial ATF to purge out what ever is in the cooler and have it dump into a drain pan or bucket.
With just a long enough hose and a funnel you might be able to just use gravity.
Old 12-09-2023, 07:24 PM
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Thank you for the input. Do you think it is "overkill"? I have a fluid pump that I was considering using. I wish I had been able to use the Hobby Shop flushing tank befor they closed everything down, but I will look into doing just what you recommended. Thanks
Old 12-10-2023, 07:51 AM
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I don't think flushing the cooler is overkill. I probably would have sprayed it out with some brake cleaner and let it sit and drain and then followed up with some ATF before mounting though
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