dexter

alright so as some of you may knwoi got a 99 cup holder to do the mod but it was tan but i bought it along with all the other parts (ebrake handle and mount deal) i figure its gonna be very very hard to find a 99+ in grey with the factory rear heater so im debating painting it black and using the top from my 96 cup holder so it matches from the top. does anyone have any sugestions on what type of paint to use? how many coats? pprep work? im totally lost on this.


and like i said before IF ANYONE FINDS A 99+ CUP HOLDER IN GREY W/ REAR HEATER AND WANTS A TAN ONE W/ REAR HEATER PM ME OR EMAIL ME ASAP AND WE CAN TRADE ILL PAY SHIPPING BOTH WAYS

thanks
later

dexter

bump

Praufet

I've heard vinyl paint can be used on interior plastic, but I have not tried it. test on a small piece that no one can see.

hungryStu

I haven't heard anything about it but this stuff looks like it would do what you want. You could also try calling a few wreckers and offering to trade for the part(color) you own? Might be a better idea considering the type of reseults you could get. I think you are going ti have trouble getting professional-looking results. JMO.

-Stu.

SLC Punk

Just order the part from the dealer. I had a similiar problem, but mine was the right color, it just didn't have the rear heater.

I ordered one from my local dealership tan with the rear heater for $65.

I then stripped console and put everything on the new console shell.

hungryStu

There you go. Small price to pay for a factory look.

-Stu.

dexter

sweet thanks thats why i love yotatech il order it tommorow hopefully.

yea i figured if i painted it id have my friends dad do it with his fancy painting equipment

SLC Punk

The only problem is that it would be hard to match the color and texture.

If your dealer overcharges you, contact TOR and he will hook you up. My dealer knows me well enough that he doesn't do the whole price upcharge crap!

Cebby

SEM Plastic dye/paint. The best there is, period.

Here's an online dealer: http://www.selectproducts.com/frames.html

Here's the page: http://selectproducts.com/shopsite_s...ge24.html#2199

I'd recommend getting a color selection chart. It has helped me with making color choices.

zedex

I used the SEM plastic dye paint. I wanted a console and the wreckers only had tan. I needed grey. The grey in SEM doesnt match at all. Toyota grey is a blueish grey. So i painted it satin black. Looks good except it chips pretty easy. I roughed it up a bit. Cleaned it with laquer thinner. Still chips pretty easy. I will have another go at it when it chips up some more and it warms up.

dexter

im just gonna order a new shell from tor, he quoted me 45 bucks or something rather today pretty sick deal call him up.
I HIGHLY recomend him he saved me about 30 bucks on headliner clips and a black pearl front emblem

Cebby

There is like 10 different greys in SEM's line. I had a Celica with a blue-grey interior. I used their "Charcoal Grey" and it matched really well.

zedex

That wouldnt surprise me Cebby. The store here had a sad display .Only 1 grey. And that one want even close. You know the kind of store that has 1/2 inch of dust on their paint supplies. Say no more. Getting anything here is like pullin teeth. Thanks for the heads up though.

kford

my 4runner came w/ that crappy toyota stick-on "wood"grain and after 2 years it was already fading. Last month I decided to change it. I took the whole dash, doors, etc. off, stripped the wood (pain in the butt), got the gooey sticky stuff off, sanded, and then just spray painted it, tons of coats, and it looks great IMO. It's just all black trim now with the tan interior. Before it was tan, black steering wheel/column/trim, and woodgrain. It looks even better than stock now. Just buy good spray paint and do lots of even coats.

Cebby

Mail order!!

Eastwood

kford

I'm sticking with my spray paint... Here are pics after i removed the woodgrain and tacky junk and then sanded the plastic down:


You can see 2 different colors after sanding. it's actually two slightly different kinds of plastic. (this is a 97 btw)

Here's what it looked like for a few days (I had no turn signals, the hazard button has to be plugged in... oops)


And here is the result. I decided not to put clear coat. It made it too shiny and gross looking. This is a semi-flat paint. I think it turned out very well, you can still see some rough spots from the screwdriver i used to pry up the crappy woodgrain but I am pleased:



Sorry to 56ker's, I resized and compressed as much as I could.

Any questions, PM or bump this thread back up.

kford

Forgot to mention, I did the same procedure to the ignition surrounding plastic, the plastic surrounding the speedo/tach area, and the window/lock control pieces on all 4 doors. The door pieces look the best because they had the least wear.

Vato Loco

Wow you did a great job on the painting! How long did that take you?

kford

Thanks!!

The actual painting only took about a day. I started coating it (i did like 5 or 6 light coats and made SURE it was even, no runs or anything) on a Friday, let it sit in my basement overnight, then the next day i was going to put clear coat on it but i started to and it was too glossy, so i just let it dry and that was that.

The hardest part isn't the painting, it is getting the crappy woodgrain stickers off. The wood was stronger than the plastic trim so if I just started prying, the plastic would break before the wood. And the sticky goop.... don't even get me started on that crap. I had to use warm water and my thumbnail on that. That all together took probably 8 hours of work, spread out over about a week.