vwfastg60

Thats what the code was the last 15 times i have scanned it.

Here are the details.

CEL comes on around 2-2500 rpm on cold nights when the truck is cooled off. I notice it more when the truck is not fully warmed up. I always make a late night run to the gas station for a drink and just enjoy the truck now that its running. I let it warm up but not all the way. I have a borla cat back on it and it is pretty deep so i dont feel like waking up my neighbors. It runs for a good 3 minutes in the garage tho.

Its never happened during the day.

If i let the truck warm up all the way it may or may not happen and when it does its random.

Pulled the connector off when i tested the knock sensor(tested good) and noticed some light rust in the connector. Cleaned it well so i couldn't see anymore and added dielectric grease.

It went away for 4 days after that and came on one night leaving the gym. even after the truck ran for about 5 minutes.

Only once has it come on at a speed above 45mph and it was the random time after letting it run a while. and it was 55mph slowing down to turn on to the highway.

I run cheap gas at a new station and have for the time i have owned the motor. It runs better then the higher octane the PO told me he used. Tried a high octane to see if that would change it or to see if it was knocking and it ran like crap as always.

Truck runs flawless when the lights off. It pulls harder then other 3rz's i have drivin and has more power then my buddy's 3.4 swapped truck.

Swapped plugs just to see if it would help and it didn't. compression numbers are close to stock and almost equal.

Watched the data stream on the scanner and the truck hasn't misfired once and ran it with the scanner recording for 3 days. No sign of anything funky. I was honestly amazed how spot on the motor runs.

Noticed tonight if i leave the truck running while it has a code and clear it the code wont come back on while driving. Let it warm up all the way. Cleared code left running and ran in the gas station drove 10 miles all under 3k RPM and it never came on.



the truck is swapped with a 2000 3rz from a 4wd regular cab federal emission motor. I used the full tacoma wiring harness from headlights to tail lights, Fuel pump and all emissions are fully functioning. Full tacoma dash and cluster the whole bit. The only cut wires or modded wires other then lighting plugs are the sending unit plug to use the old style unit and the trailer wiring the PO cut in to thinking it was elocker stuff. I didnt even unplug the sensor when i did the swap.

2 weeks ago i did do some snow bashing and had to cross 2 water crossings. They were not deep enough to get to the pan even but coming out was a 4-5 foot ice wall that did get some moisture in the wheel wells from spinning at the top. I wasn't flyin through them either. You had to get the front up and give it a little hell or as much hell as possible with lots of gearing.


I wonder if the sensor some how got moisture in it and it freezes when its cold out...Even tho you would think 2 weeks of driving it daily would let it dry out and the grease is smeared over the top of the plug thinking that might be the case and i was attempting to see if it would keep moisture out. After i cleaned it up i tested this idea and washed the motor in freezing temps. after that still had no code for 4 days. I thought i fixed it but i was wrong.


Picture of the crossing for clicks.



Any help would be great guys. This thing is going to send me to the poor house with the crappy MPG when that light comes on.

sam333

The PO325 isnt telling you that your engine is knocking, it just telling you that the computer is not recieving the right info from the sensor.The ecm should get a signal from the sensor(waveform with a frequency of 12.5 kHz. its called the normal mode vibration frequency) when the car is running properly. If it doesnt it will go into failsafe mode ( just like if you were really knocking) and will retard your timing to the max value. ( thats why its running crappy). The code is telling you three possible trouble areas : Open or short in knock sensor curcuit, Knock sensor( loosenes) , ECM. You tested the sensor and said it was good( no continuity between the terminal and the the body). You did say there was corrosion and you cleaned it and used dielectric grease. Dielectric grease is nonconductive and if you got any on the connections that could make it worse. Even though you tested it the sensor could still be bad or connectors/ wiring open or shorted. I doubt its your ECM.

vwfastg60

Thank you!!!


Going to alldata the test for the wiring...Im also going to clean out the sensor again for fear i got some grease in it. Came on today before i got 2 blocks away...First time during the day

vwfastg60

Cleaned the connector out again and took all the grease out...No code today. Might be on to something here

vwfastg60

another 4 day gap. Code came on same spot in the road it did before. about 9pm not fully warm. Haven't had an issue in a while. Pulled the plug off again and Cleaned it with Qtips, carb spray and electrical connector cleaner. Came on again same spot after i was finished. cleared the code and its staying gone but for how long i dont know. Im going to drop it at my buddys and have him do some testing. I cant deal with it right now. If he cant figure it out its either going to storage or to a new home.

sam333

To find the problem you will have to check your wiring between the sensor and the ECM . To do that you need a volt /ohm meter. Its probably not your ECM, like I said before, but your sensor ,connector( which may not be the contacts but a loose/ bad connection inside), wiring up to and including the connector on the ECM. If you dont want to do any diagnostic work, then I would check on the price for a new sensor and replace it. The sensor can be giving you problems even if it is just loose also.