O2 sensor
#2
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It's extremely easy as long as you can get the nuts off. I removed mine and ended up stripping the nuts slightly, so I just replaced them. Spray them down with a rust penetrant once a day for a few days before you need to remove them and you may have no problems at all.
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I didn't have ANY problems with the bolts at all. It took me a half-hour hugging the top of transmission trying to disconnect the sensor from the wiring harness. Perhaps it's located somewhere else for Autos. The connector couldn't be in a worse place on the manuals, though. Still not worthy of a stealership repair, but I thought it was a pain in the ass and worth mentioning.
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I just replaced my O2 sensor last saturday. took me about 30mins and I took my time slowly and Im not even handy when it comes to machanical. One advice is let the engine cool down.
#6
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jev,
you really need to search more often, bud! this is a pretty well covered topic as of late.
also, i have a writeup in the tech forum that will show you how to do this.
bob
you really need to search more often, bud! this is a pretty well covered topic as of late.
also, i have a writeup in the tech forum that will show you how to do this.
bob
#7
O2 sensor
Ok, thanks Bob. But where is it? If I had seen a write up on it, I probably wouldn't have posted the question.
Last edited by jev2022; 07-18-2006 at 10:52 AM.
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#8
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Originally Posted by jev2022
Ok, thanks Bob. But where is it? If I had seen a write up on it, I probably wouldn't have posted the question.
#12
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I just changed mine yesterday. My first time, took 15 mins. Tools you need are 13mm, a flexable socket wrench, a screwdriver (flat head) to push in the little tabs to remove from the harness. once the sensor hangs down you use the screwdriver once again to release the tab on the side of the wiring harness plug ( please excuse the lack of correct terminology) Then go backwards. I live in az so rust in not a problem here. removal of the nuts went very well. Oh don't forget the anti-seize lube. Then you pull the 20a EFI fuse for a bout a min. I noticed a more smoother ride throughout the rpm bands, Before it got a little sluggish in certain rpm bands, runs like a champ again. Oh I hade 85000 miles on it and had no CEL, just thought it was time to replace it.
#14
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Originally Posted by OutdoorLiving
I didn't have any anti-seize lube. I hope the healthy application of WD-40 does the trick in a year or so...
However, for you, since you are in northern Georgia (I think), you shouldn't have any rust problems anyways, so you should be fine.
Last edited by GSGALLANT; 07-19-2006 at 03:38 AM.
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Originally Posted by GSGALLANT
WD-40 will not help when you have to take this off again. Ohly a high heat anti-seize stands a chance on the exhaust system.
However, for you, since you are in northern Georgia (I think), you shouldn't have any rust problems anyways, so you should be fine.
However, for you, since you are in northern Georgia (I think), you shouldn't have any rust problems anyways, so you should be fine.
#17
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Originally Posted by OutdoorLiving
Quite honestly, I'm not too worried about it. If I ever remember to pick up any while I'm in the store, I'll unthread it and reapply. But it came off so easy, I could have sworn it wasn't torqued down properly to begin with!
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