Manual Locking Hubs
10-27-2005, 02:13 PM
#21
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I don't really think the "saves your CVs" argument has a lot of merit unless there is a lift involved, changing the angles. There are millions of FWD cars going millions of miles on CVs with no real problems.
10-27-2005, 02:41 PM
#22
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Yup, my original CV boots lasted 10 years with ADD flanges and no lift.
Plus, the older trucks had auto locking hubs and not ADD so the CV axles aren't moving anyway in 2wd.
Plus, the older trucks had auto locking hubs and not ADD so the CV axles aren't moving anyway in 2wd.
10-27-2005, 03:15 PM
#23
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My '89 had ADD...not auto hubs.
Maybe it's a coincidence that my CV boots are lasting longer...who knows?
I just like being able to disengage my front drive train when I'm not using it, which is 99% of the time.
Anyway, Jen, there is no disdvantage to swapping in manual hubs, other than having to get out of your vehicle to engage them. You can do that in your driveway before your road trips to the mountains if you want, and then use the four-wheel drive lever inside your rig like you do now to switch in and out of 4whl drive as conditions warrant.
Jim
Maybe it's a coincidence that my CV boots are lasting longer...who knows?
I just like being able to disengage my front drive train when I'm not using it, which is 99% of the time.
Anyway, Jen, there is no disdvantage to swapping in manual hubs, other than having to get out of your vehicle to engage them. You can do that in your driveway before your road trips to the mountains if you want, and then use the four-wheel drive lever inside your rig like you do now to switch in and out of 4whl drive as conditions warrant.
Jim
Last edited by mytruck; 10-27-2005 at 03:16 PM.
10-29-2005, 04:20 PM
#24
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Manual Hubs
Just my 2 cents worth on manual hubs. It stands to reason that if you are not turning the whole front drive train, fuel economy has to be better. Last year I did a SAS on my 86 and currently my son and I are putting a new frame under his 85, it was an 89 4 runner IFS. I know this isn't the classifieds so I won't go into detail, but if any of you thinking about changing your 2nd. gen. full time front ends to locking hubs. I've got 2 sets in good condition, that are taking up space.
10-29-2005, 05:39 PM
#25
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Originally Posted by BOSTON4RUNNER
so how much would the whole shooting match cost me for my 1997 3.4 5 speed ADD 4 runner?
I might go with manual hubs, then go with a lunchbox locker in the front
I might go with manual hubs, then go with a lunchbox locker in the front
A lucnchbox locker even with manual hubs will tend to break more axles, I've seen it alot. My hubs cost 65 for both from a guy at the 4x4 shop. I put em on myself, Don't know how hard it is on a 3rd gen....I assume the same aisians still fit on 3rd gen.
10-30-2005, 10:53 AM
#26
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Lockers or posis in the front really make it squirrelly in winter if you get ice and snow.
You learn to compensate for it, you have to be much more deliberate - but if anyone else drives your rig they will have "fun!" I did it once and will never do it again. I would only put selectable lockers in front.
A 95 would still be "2nd gen" (I hate that term)
The 3rd gen from what I've read on here is a tough install.
You learn to compensate for it, you have to be much more deliberate - but if anyone else drives your rig they will have "fun!" I did it once and will never do it again. I would only put selectable lockers in front.
A 95 would still be "2nd gen" (I hate that term)
The 3rd gen from what I've read on here is a tough install.
11-01-2005, 04:38 PM
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hey guys - sorry - i didn't get an email this had been updated, thought no one cared 
jim, my mechanic said he'd never seen anything like it [which he often says about my rusty under carriage]. one hub was stuck locked b/c of the cluth thingie inside, and one was stuck unlocked, and just spun all day. he tried to find salvage parts, found an auto hub for the "unlocked" side, but it was faulty and didn't end up working. we scrapped the whole idea for a few weeks and i plan to look for some used ones, auto or manual. i know if the snow starts before i can find a set, the manual ones are affordable new [he said about $220]. good times.
this all sound right??
jim, my mechanic said he'd never seen anything like it [which he often says about my rusty under carriage]. one hub was stuck locked b/c of the cluth thingie inside, and one was stuck unlocked, and just spun all day. he tried to find salvage parts, found an auto hub for the "unlocked" side, but it was faulty and didn't end up working. we scrapped the whole idea for a few weeks and i plan to look for some used ones, auto or manual. i know if the snow starts before i can find a set, the manual ones are affordable new [he said about $220]. good times.
this all sound right??
11-01-2005, 09:33 PM
#28
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Originally Posted by Robinhood150
Shifting into 4wd while the hubs are unlocked and you are moving isn't a good idea. The Cvs, diff and driveshaft are not moving but the transmission and transfer case are. Suddenly shifting into 4wd would cause unpleasantness.
11-01-2005, 09:39 PM
#29
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You can get manual hubs for about $50 if you look hard enough. Auto hubs practically grow on trees at the off road forums. Somebody would probably give them to you free or pretty cheap. Check pirate.
11-01-2005, 10:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Robinhood150
The Cvs, diff and driveshaft are not moving but the transmission and transfer case are. Suddenly shifting into 4wd would cause unpleasantness.
11-02-2005, 06:16 AM
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I had the auto locking hubs on my 89. They kinda suck.
My problem was that in the cold, they would try to engage in 2 wheel drive. Lots of bad grinding noises on the highway and then a THuMP as they locked in (still in 2H). I can't believe they didn't blow up.
Switch to manual means you have to get out of the truck to lock/unlock them, but no more backing up 15 feet to get the auto hubs to unlock. With the hubs locked, you can still shift on the fly like with your old auto hubs. Unlocked, no way. You do get the optional 2LO setting by choice instead of by choice of the auto hubs choosing not to engage.
So you have to plan ahead a bit and jump out of the truck when the going gets tough or returns to easy, but you get REAL engagement and user selectable 2LO. Yep, ditch the auto hubs. They are not buying you much more than convience at a high price of maintenance and repair.
My problem was that in the cold, they would try to engage in 2 wheel drive. Lots of bad grinding noises on the highway and then a THuMP as they locked in (still in 2H). I can't believe they didn't blow up.
Switch to manual means you have to get out of the truck to lock/unlock them, but no more backing up 15 feet to get the auto hubs to unlock. With the hubs locked, you can still shift on the fly like with your old auto hubs. Unlocked, no way. You do get the optional 2LO setting by choice instead of by choice of the auto hubs choosing not to engage.
So you have to plan ahead a bit and jump out of the truck when the going gets tough or returns to easy, but you get REAL engagement and user selectable 2LO. Yep, ditch the auto hubs. They are not buying you much more than convience at a high price of maintenance and repair.
Last edited by leiniesred; 11-02-2005 at 06:17 AM.
11-02-2005, 10:24 AM
#32
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Posted by leiniesred..."So you have to plan ahead a bit and jump out of the truck when the going gets tough or returns to easy, but you get REAL engagement and user selectable 2LO. Yep, ditch the auto hubs. They are not buying you much more than convience at a high price of maintenance and repair.[/QUOTE]
Jen;
This sounds like the best solution. You can find factory manual hubs at the junk yard in good condition for $100.00 / pair...sometimes less.
Manual hubs would be much better than auto-hubs, for the reasons listed above.
Jim
Jen;
This sounds like the best solution. You can find factory manual hubs at the junk yard in good condition for $100.00 / pair...sometimes less.
Manual hubs would be much better than auto-hubs, for the reasons listed above.
Jim
Last edited by mytruck; 11-02-2005 at 10:27 AM.
11-02-2005, 11:51 AM
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ok - sounds like i have a mission to find me some manual lockers. freshman PM'd me and said he'd sell me a set in good condition for $80 shipped, might be my best bet.
thanks for all the guidance - maybe one day soon i'll stop getting stuck in the mud!
thanks for all the guidance - maybe one day soon i'll stop getting stuck in the mud!
11-02-2005, 04:35 PM
#35
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manual hubs = awesome.
truck came with them, how pimp is that.
u can leave them locked all winter. having them free and then go into 4wd wont hurt anything, unless ur moving.
free, i think i get much much better mileage. at least a 3mpg difference i would think.
truck came with them, how pimp is that.
u can leave them locked all winter. having them free and then go into 4wd wont hurt anything, unless ur moving.
free, i think i get much much better mileage. at least a 3mpg difference i would think.
11-02-2005, 06:40 PM
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Originally Posted by runethechamp
Isn't this the case for the diff even with locked hubs? The ADD system doesn't kick in until the transfer case is shifted, does it?
11-02-2005, 06:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Robinhood150
Not quite sure what you mean. If manual hubs are locked then everything is fine and behaves just as if you had ADD flanges. With ADD everything in the axles are spinning whenever the truck is moving regardless of where the shifter is. Now if the hubs are unlocked, nothing in the axle is moving.
11-02-2005, 07:07 PM
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Got a question that kinda relates, sorry if this is considered a hijack... on the ADD trucks, instead of hubs they have drive flanges that keep the CV locked to the "hub body" or other means to the tire. My question is, could you install these flanges in a non-ADD truck to have permanent 4WD, in doing so bypassing all problems associated with hubs such as breakage, etc? IF so, does anyone have some flanges they'd like to get rid of?
11-02-2005, 07:31 PM
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Originally Posted by runethechamp
What I meant was that if you have a truck equipped with ADD and have your hubs locked (or the ADD flanges), when you shift into 4wd the differential isn't really moving since the ADD system isn't engaged yet. I think (and this is just my theory) that the ADD connects everything after the shift is completed in the transfer case.
11-02-2005, 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by colsoncj
Got a question that kinda relates, sorry if this is considered a hijack... on the ADD trucks, instead of hubs they have drive flanges that keep the CV locked to the "hub body" or other means to the tire. My question is, could you install these flanges in a non-ADD truck to have permanent 4WD, in doing so bypassing all problems associated with hubs such as breakage, etc? IF so, does anyone have some flanges they'd like to get rid of?
