WallacesToyota

Hello,

This is my first post in this forum. I read all the above threads to see "why" on my 1996 Toyota 4runner with 160,000 miles the key sometimes gets stuck in the ignition in the accessory postion and it takes a lot of starting the truck and turning the truck off, pushing on the shifter and the key etc to get the key out of the igniton to not kill the battery?

I tried the WD40 spray last winter and each time it got stuck I sprayed more and it worked most of the time when it got stuck over a 6 month period.

I was going on a family vacation of over 400 miles and was "scared" to go that far and have the key stick.

So I went to my $$$ Toyota Dealer $$$ and he said $400+ to replace the key cylinder, and I should try a new key?

So I bought a $12 new key cut from the Vin # and it seemed to work for about 2 weeks.

Got stuck AGAIN! So Mad! So I had Toyota replace the key cylinder and have it keyed to match the locks (one Key) and over the last 2 months it has stuck two or three times AGAIN? This cost me $418.00

I took it back to my $$ Toyota dealer and the mechanic said well it does not stick now so who knows...?? Try another key as yours may be "rough cut" so I did and it worked for a month without issue.

Now, Today in the snow (of course) it stuck again 2 times in the ACC Positon and it took me 15 min "messing with it" to get the key out today?

I love this truck but I am so G#$ D** Frustrated with this key issue I do not know what to do.

I spent $418.00 + for a new ignition switch and 2 new keys from Toyota but sporadically the key STILL gets stuck in the Acc Position.

Does anyone know why my key sometimes gets stuck in my 1996 Toyota 4runner in the acc postion and more importantly ~

How to I fix or repair this issue?

Any help will be GREATLY appreciated!

pattycakes77

iTrader: (2)

I was having this issue last year, did some searching and found this and many other threads talking about it. I had two new keys cut from the VIN and they would work sometimes and others not so much. I ended up spraying a good amount of PB Blaster in the cylinder once or twice a day for a week or so (make sure you put towels under it so you don't stain your carpet) and after working the key in the cylinder some I haven't had any trouble in the last year or so. *Knock on wood* I don't know if PB Blaster is the right thing to spray in there, says it's a lubricant and had some magnetic properties so it stays where you spray. Worked for me, maybe give it a try or try the graphite approach first. Maybe the cylinder just needs a good cleaning. Birchwood Casey has a nice spray cleaner for guns you might try, or since there is probably some electrical components in there you could clean it with some Deoxit contact cleaner followed by some lube. Just thinking out loud here.

4Tard

99% of the time it's the gear selector switch, not the key cylinder. The bushings in the gear shift wear out and the slop prevents the pawl on the selector from engaging the key release contacts.

PB Blaster/WD40 are horrible things to spray into electrical components, too.

WallacesToyota

- I agree!


Thank you so much for your response.

As you stated "99% of the time it's the gear selector switch, not the key cylinder. The bushings in the gear shift wear out and the slop prevents the pawl on the selector from engaging the key release contacts. (Sorry but what this mean in simple terms)

I greatly appreciate your response, but not sure how to interpert your response (not being mechanical minded). #1 is this something a Toyota Dealership could repair? #2 How much will this cost do you think?

As I stated the 1996 Toyota 4runner has about 170,000 miles on it and is in great shape otherwise and I just dropped $418.00 into it for a new cylinder because Toyota said this was the problem and would fix it. I am a disabled Veteran so I am on a fixed income and money is tight, but since its my transportation I can't afford not to fix this issue (IF someone can find out what it truly is?)

As stated I love my 1996 Toyota 4Runner Ltd and even though I bought it in 2005 used with 121,000 miles on it and have done a lot of work to it, its now in great shape otherwise... just can't get the dang key out of the ignition when I turn the truck off..

**** As I stated I tried the WD40 as suggested on this forum and it worked for about 6 months. I took it to Toyota and they said it needed a NEW Key cylinder and I paid them $418.00 to do this and have the cylinder "keyed" to the door locks so I could use just one key.

I went to move my 1996 Toyota 4runner out of my driveway last night for the "200 Trick or Treaters we get and the Darn Key stuck in the ACC position both times and took me 15 min + of turning the key back and forth and pushing in on the key, moving the wheel around and shifting the gear selector to Finally get out the key.


My Original Post
-----------------------------------------------------Hello,

This is my first post in this forum. I read all the above threads to see "why" on my 1996 Toyota 4runner with 160,000 miles the key sometimes gets stuck in the ignition in the accessory postion and it takes a lot of starting the truck and turning the truck off, pushing on the shifter and the key etc to get the key out of the igniton to not kill the battery?

I tried the WD40 spray last winter and each time it got stuck I sprayed more and it worked most of the time when it got stuck over a 6 month period.

I was going on a family vacation of over 400 miles and was "scared" to go that far and have the key stick.

So I went to my $$$ Toyota Dealer $$$ and he said $400+ to replace the key cylinder, and I should try a new key?

So I bought a $12 new key cut from the Vin # and it seemed to work for about 2 weeks.

Got stuck AGAIN! So Mad! So I had Toyota replace the key cylinder and have it keyed to match the locks (one Key) and over the last 2 months it has stuck two or three times AGAIN? This cost me $418.00

I took it back to my $$ Toyota dealer and the mechanic said well it does not stick now so who knows...?? Try another key as yours may be "rough cut" so I did and it worked for a month without issue.

Now, Today in the snow (of course) it stuck again 2 times in the ACC Positon and it took me 15 min "messing with it" to get the key out today?

I love this truck but I am so G#$ D** Frustrated with this key issue I do not know what to do.

I spent $418.00 + for a new ignition switch and 2 new keys from Toyota but sporadically the key STILL gets stuck in the Acc Position.

Does anyone know why my key sometimes gets stuck in my 1996 Toyota 4runner in the acc postion and more importantly ~

How to I fix or repair this issue?

Any help will be GREATLY appreciated!


********** ADDED INFORMATION

I just got off the phone with Champion Toyota in Philadelphia (Large Dealership) who replace the Ignition Locky Cylinder on my 1996 Toyota 4Runner LTD
for over $400.00 and he set me up to bring it in Early on Thursday mornig (2 days away) to see IF they can find out what is causing this issue?

I am hoping it can be fixed once and for all and I can report back the "fix" to assit any other Toyota owners with the same frustrating issue of having
the Key get stuck in the accessory position after the turn off your Toyota.

Wish me Luck!

ALLTHATISMAN

I'm having the same exact issue... I'm going to see if I can't do what was mentioned earlier and just pull the wires so that the lock never engages again. It's a stupid feature IMO anyway...

WallacesToyota

I took my 1996 4 runner to Champion Toyota for the 3rd time for the key sticking in the ignition and I think its fixed.

As stated they first replaced the key cylinder and key in Sep for $418 and it still got stuck.

Last week they replaced 2 more parts and with labor it cost me $472 more!

So $890 total to fix it where on my 1996 Toyota 4runner with 170K miles, I was able
to take out the key when I turned off the truck.

They said it needed these parts along with $300 in Labor and like $40+ in Taxes.

Part # 84727-35090 Switch Shift Lock $51.25

Part # 85933-35150 Computer, Shift Lock $85.54

Its been since 11/4/11 and so far so good. The key is coming out now and I hope
it stays fixed. This thing drove me crazy for over a year trying to fix it.

For this reason and since I have gotten help from some nice people on this Forum
I wanted to share the Fix with any one else having the same issue.

Hope this helps!

ALLTHATISMAN

That's reassuring to know that was the problem. I'm still going to pull the wire that all those parts are connected to, just to be sure that's the prblem for sure. Thanks for the update!

Ashlea Maranto

My husband was having the same problem in his 98 4 runner 4 x 4. All it took was him taking the bottom off the shifter and running it on the ground a few times to shorten the length off the bottom. It works just fine now. Of course we have bought a new ignition switch and lock override switch and the problem was the shift button length the whole time. So give that a try before you go out and buy all the parts you may not need.

taras

Yes, I investigated the problem and it turned out to be just that issue. In my case, I had to push the handle in to engage the correct relay. Anyhow, it's a good post to keep in case anyone else runs into the same problem. The ignition key cylinder is just fine.

mynameistommy510

Every so often, maybe twice a year my key won't turn all the way left, not allowing the key to come out and the battery to be completely off. I have to pull the platic console covering the transmission shifter off, then disconnect the electrical connector towards the front of the shifter, allowing me to turn my key the rest of the way left and remove it. Maybe a solenoid is bad? I don't care enough to find out. 1996 4runner 5vzfe 2wd

4RUNNERTMAN

Have had this problem for a few months and I tore the shift assemble open today to see what I could do. Turns out its a fairly easy fix as there is metal pin on the shift stem that moves a small plastic plunger that is shaped like a J but sitting sideways. What happened with mine is there was so much play in the shift stem that when putting it into Park the pin would slide under that plastic J piece and that is what releases the key so I put the shifter back down into neutral and made sure the pin caught the J hook and slid it forward as I put the shifter into park and Walla! Key came out every time. what I did was just tighten down as best I could the shifter and place it sits on along with any other phillips head screw I could find in that area and it stopped all the play in the Shift stem so the pin now catches the plastic J hook every time. What it appears to be or why the play occurs however is simple where and tear on the moving parts and over time they develop play in them and screws and bolts tend to loosen as well. Just tighten everything down and it will last longer but eventually you will likely have to replace the shift mechanism due to to much wear. So far it has worked for me.

PS> When putting it back in park be sure to apply pressure to the passengers side on the shifter as you slide it up as that is where the pin catches the J hook piece.

forsyth793

I removed the solenoid off the bottom of the ignition switch

LeonK

This above solved it for me (for now).

Thank you all, love this site. Simple solutions - disconnect solenoid, rub shift stick on the ground - cheap my sort of stuff! LOL

I wish I could buy a drink to people positively contributing to this thread
Sorry for the person who spent $890 to fix this on 96 truck