Gauge and dash backlighting
06-17-2007, 08:00 PM
#41
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If anyone cares for the details, I'm actually tackling a few of the things no one ever seems to -
- Power window switch (removing green led and installing 4 purples or blue, since the circuit cards are all there for the rest of the switches)
- ECT switch LED, disassemble and resolder new LED plus replace green plastic insert with white
- Rear window switch, remove green on lettering
- Maybe the stock radio and CD player, since thats what I have.
I'll post pics in a week or so, when its all done.
DrA>
- Power window switch (removing green led and installing 4 purples or blue, since the circuit cards are all there for the rest of the switches)
- ECT switch LED, disassemble and resolder new LED plus replace green plastic insert with white
- Rear window switch, remove green on lettering
- Maybe the stock radio and CD player, since thats what I have.
I'll post pics in a week or so, when its all done.
DrA>
07-15-2007, 08:43 AM
#43
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*subscribed* are there the exact same number of bulbs in a 2nd gen 4runner? and are they the same replacment number? 194 and 74? how many 74 are needed to replace all of the stock 74 behind the gauges/instument panel, rear window control, heater controls? and how many 194 bulbs are needed on a second gen?
08-01-2007, 08:16 PM
#46
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I finally got everything back together. Announcing the first blue led ECT switch and window assemblies!
I completely dismantled the ECT and window switch assembly. I soldered in new blue leds and swapped the resistors. I also made custom white lens assemblies. The window switches had to be cut so light could come through. The ECT had to have a new white lens made for it to replace the green one.
I also sanded the orange gauge needles and painted them neon yellow.
The hazzard switch had a red lamp installed, since it makes more sense to me. The defroster had a blue led for the backlight and a red for when its on.
What do y'all think?
Regards,
DrA>
I completely dismantled the ECT and window switch assembly. I soldered in new blue leds and swapped the resistors. I also made custom white lens assemblies. The window switches had to be cut so light could come through. The ECT had to have a new white lens made for it to replace the green one.
I also sanded the orange gauge needles and painted them neon yellow.
The hazzard switch had a red lamp installed, since it makes more sense to me. The defroster had a blue led for the backlight and a red for when its on.
What do y'all think?
Regards,
DrA>
08-02-2007, 06:58 AM
#49
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Its a 95.
It probably took me more time to get things apart and figure out what I needed to do than actually doing the mods. Mod time was a few hours, sanding, drilling, soldering, etc.
If someone wanted me to mod their switches, I'd be happy to talk to them about it.
The two big things were figuring out how to make a transparent lens, the white areas. The other was getting the springs in the window assembly. They are very small. I lucked out by having a brother in a machine shop, but I'm sure Grainger or a similiar store would have them.
The gauge needles don't look very nice in the photo, but they are a nice bright neon yellow. I removed the individual gauges and then detached the actual plastic needle to redo it. I couldn't get the tach or speedo needles off, so that made them more of a challenge.
Oh yeah the other real touchy issue was sanding the green coating off the back of all the lenses like the rear window switch, shift column, A/C, hazzard, etc.
DrA>
It probably took me more time to get things apart and figure out what I needed to do than actually doing the mods. Mod time was a few hours, sanding, drilling, soldering, etc.
If someone wanted me to mod their switches, I'd be happy to talk to them about it.
The two big things were figuring out how to make a transparent lens, the white areas. The other was getting the springs in the window assembly. They are very small. I lucked out by having a brother in a machine shop, but I'm sure Grainger or a similiar store would have them.
The gauge needles don't look very nice in the photo, but they are a nice bright neon yellow. I removed the individual gauges and then detached the actual plastic needle to redo it. I couldn't get the tach or speedo needles off, so that made them more of a challenge.
Oh yeah the other real touchy issue was sanding the green coating off the back of all the lenses like the rear window switch, shift column, A/C, hazzard, etc.
DrA>
Last edited by DrAnonymous; 08-02-2007 at 07:01 AM.
08-02-2007, 08:13 AM
#50
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Alright, sorry the pictures took forever, my computer self-destructed on me. Here they are:
The LEDs are available in various colors... white, blue, red, purple, amber, etc...
I would definitely like to change my clock to blue, but I don't even know if that is possible? If not I may just unplug it since my deck has a clock on it.
The LEDs are available in various colors... white, blue, red, purple, amber, etc...
I would definitely like to change my clock to blue, but I don't even know if that is possible? If not I may just unplug it since my deck has a clock on it.
That looks really good
I would love to do this to my runner. Not sure if the 01's are the same but....... Just curious how much did all of this cost you ? (if you dont mind me asking)
08-09-2007, 07:01 AM
#51
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I'd say that all in all it cost me around $30-$35 for the instrument cluster, and if you add in the dome lights and map lights it would total up to be around $65. You could do it for cheaper, but getting the better bulbs is definitely worth it.
08-09-2007, 08:18 AM
#52
Registered User
So if I wanted to change all of the instrumentation lighting to blue, in say a 1999 Taco, how many of the bulbs that work in the 4 runners would work in the Taco? Or am I looking at figuring out from the FSM, or Just pulling everything apart?
11-18-2007, 03:31 PM
#54
here's where i am on the LED conversion:
194 (3) for the gauge cluster
74 (2) for the blinkers in the cluster
*just a note, looks like all the other lights in the cluster are 74s like high beams, 4X4 indicator, seat belt, ebrake, etc; i decided not to change any of these
74 (1) ignition ring, but i had to use the dremmel and shave the inside a bit to get it to fit as the led 74s are a little long
74 (2) for the heat and A/C panel, but you may want to experiment with other 74 styled bulbs for a better light dispersal pattern, i've got some hot spots on mine
74 (1) shifter, but it's really brite in the center and you can hardly see the "P" for park, may want to consider a different style bulb.
74 (2) for my 2nd gen inclinometer
*i used 74s for my cig lighters that i use for power outlets, the original bulbs were hard wired in so i had to get creative and make my own bulb outlets by hacking and shaping stuff, not recommended.
Hazard switch has a 10mm base and is about 12mm tall which makes it a Type B T4 Neo Wedge bulb.
Rear Defrost has two bulbs, one for illumination (green) and one to indicate that it is on (yellow). They both measure an 8mm base and 9-10mm tall. They should be Type A T3 Neo Wedge bulb.
The rear window up/down switch has the same bulb as the defrost, 8mm base 9-10mm tall Type A T3 Neo Wedge bulb.
A/C button 8mm base and 9-10mm tall, Type A T3 Neo Wedge bulb.
ECT switch i figured out how it comes apart, couple tabs on the sides and it pulls out the front instead of the usual coming apart from the back. looks like one little green light hard wired into the PC board, i'll see if i can just wire up something the same size in place of the old and give it a shot.
ps - this is on my 1998 4runner SR5, i'm sure this will not apply to later 4runners since they changed the rear window and ECT switches on the center bezel.
194 (3) for the gauge cluster
74 (2) for the blinkers in the cluster
*just a note, looks like all the other lights in the cluster are 74s like high beams, 4X4 indicator, seat belt, ebrake, etc; i decided not to change any of these
74 (1) ignition ring, but i had to use the dremmel and shave the inside a bit to get it to fit as the led 74s are a little long
74 (2) for the heat and A/C panel, but you may want to experiment with other 74 styled bulbs for a better light dispersal pattern, i've got some hot spots on mine
74 (1) shifter, but it's really brite in the center and you can hardly see the "P" for park, may want to consider a different style bulb.
74 (2) for my 2nd gen inclinometer
*i used 74s for my cig lighters that i use for power outlets, the original bulbs were hard wired in so i had to get creative and make my own bulb outlets by hacking and shaping stuff, not recommended.
Hazard switch has a 10mm base and is about 12mm tall which makes it a Type B T4 Neo Wedge bulb.
Rear Defrost has two bulbs, one for illumination (green) and one to indicate that it is on (yellow). They both measure an 8mm base and 9-10mm tall. They should be Type A T3 Neo Wedge bulb.
The rear window up/down switch has the same bulb as the defrost, 8mm base 9-10mm tall Type A T3 Neo Wedge bulb.
A/C button 8mm base and 9-10mm tall, Type A T3 Neo Wedge bulb.
ECT switch i figured out how it comes apart, couple tabs on the sides and it pulls out the front instead of the usual coming apart from the back. looks like one little green light hard wired into the PC board, i'll see if i can just wire up something the same size in place of the old and give it a shot.
ps - this is on my 1998 4runner SR5, i'm sure this will not apply to later 4runners since they changed the rear window and ECT switches on the center bezel.
Last edited by pattycakes77; 03-10-2010 at 01:48 PM.
12-03-2007, 04:17 PM
#55
Contributing Member
Anyone having a problem with the center of the gauge being dimmer than the outter parts? I actually ordered the wrong colors but for now I'm happy with blue turn signals and red backlights.
12-03-2007, 06:35 PM
#56
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Looks good. Someday I will do the gauges and climate controls....but in plain white. Maybe the gauge faces too.
One question...can you still dim the gauge lights with the LED's?
One question...can you still dim the gauge lights with the LED's?
12-03-2007, 06:47 PM
#57
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Yes, you can still use the dimmer. The LEDs are very bright, they don't dim all the way down though; once they get fairly dim they just turn off.
For everyone having problems with "hot spots", I used 5-LED #194 lights for the gauges and 3-LED #74 for the HVAC controls on my 98 4Runner and I don't have any. Nice even light. There are a variety of different designs for LEDs that help disperse the light better.
12-03-2007, 09:51 PM
#59
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I am going to look up the bulbs and replace them with LED's when i do the rest of the lights on my truck in white LEDs. There are 4 bulbs in the climate control, 2 larger ones and 2 smaller ones.
12-03-2007, 10:08 PM
#60
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that looks really nice. just a little advice to anyone wanting to do this, dont get cheap colored bulbs. just say no and go buy nice leds or something. i changed out my dash bulbs with blue bulbs from autozone and in less than a month they all were washed out to a white that is uglier than the stock green.
