Corey

iTrader: (1)

I just added Dr. Z's silencer removal mod to the Tech section, and it's in the Performance category.

It will be updated later with some new pictures of the black powder coat job he just had done to it.

Also down the road will be added a dynometer test to see the increase in performance with it on, and off.



Now all you 3rd gen dude's & dudette's have a new mod to perform on your 3.4 engine.

NerfHerder-97SR5-

Good Stuff

Paul H.

Hey Corey, can this be done on 2nd gens. also?

Corey

iTrader: (1)

I have thought about it.
I'd have to take a look.

Here is a pic of my engine.
Looks like we have a pipe with the lines on it that might cause restriction.

Perhaps pull that pipe and see what the interior of it looks like, and maybe a smooth one will smooth out the flow better.

http://www.pnw4runners.net/tech/drivers_side_engine.jpg

Paul H.

What is the purpose of the box inbetween the two pipes? Is it necessary or can you run a straight pipe? Sorry for all the questions. Still trying to learn about the engine and its different componants. Thanks.

Corey

iTrader: (1)

I have a hunch that thing is a big restriction, and probably a resonator much like the 3rd gen.

So, who's gonna try out this mod on a 3.0
I bet it makes a diff.

Sludge

i might try it tomorrow if its not raining

91Runner

That black box between the two pipes you're mentioning is a resonator on the 2nd Gens, I know because I had to replace it a few weeks ago because one of the brackets on it broke off

I've been debating whether or not to try and do this on my truck since I read his post about it. I'll probably wait for someone else to try it first

-Braden

Corey

iTrader: (1)

If someone with a 3.0 does this modification, please take pics.
We can make it a write-up and put it in the Tech section as well.

It will be nice to have a source for the part #s involved and the length of tubing required.

I wonder if the final black tube that goes to the TB is restrictive in anyway?
Might be a good idea to eliminate that final hose with one that will match up better angle wise to the black hose that goes to the air cleaner box.

Hmmm, this could be interesting.

Dr. Zhivago

The ECU will learn the new fuel/air maps by itself. It will take as much time to learn this if you pull the fuse or not. If you pull the fuse, wait 15 minutes. I've noticed that seems to be the best amount of time. It does drive differently for a while after pulling the fuse. A bit rich seems to be the default map.

Hope this helps.
Dr. Z

Corey

iTrader: (1)

Sounds good Phil.
Looking forward to some pics and if you got any bang for your future doughnuts you have to buy

The problem with the 3.0 engine is we don't have that much space between the two black tubes when you remove the resonator box.

Might be hard to fit a piece of metal tubing there, unless the hose on the TB gets cut off some.

Blu

I read this forum everyday and really enjoy it but, don't post much. I am trying this on my 93 3.0L. The paint is drying right know. I have been taking pictures along the way. If all goes well it will be ready in a day or 2. This is if it works or not. I will let you know.

Corey

iTrader: (1)

Bless you Blu!
Looking forward to the pics.

We can make this a write-up like Dr's if you are interested, then it will be here for easy & quick reference.

Did you have to cut either intake hose, or where you able to find a pipe to slip in there OK?
What size too?

I may go to the store tomorrow to get parts if you have a list.

CTB

Great to hear Blu... I as well can't wait to hear about what you figure out. Thanks for giving it a try. Please post with your results.

Dr. Zhivago

Way to go Phil!

I hope you like it as much as I have. The improvement in bottom end punch and cruising power have really made me enjoy my truck a lot more. A slight press on the gas pedal in 5th gear while on the freeway delivers solid acceleration. Also, on hills that I had to shift into 4th gear in order to pass cars are now driven in 5th. Let us know how you feel in a couple of days.

I didn't need to use any silicone on my pipe. Did you follow the suggested dimensions when making yours? I notice it is not the same diameter all the way thru the pipe.

By the way, I will have updated pics of my intake with the powder coated pipe tomorrow. Corey will post them in the write-up when I get them to him.

Peace!
Dr. Z

CLin9383

i'm just wondering if there is a problem with the TEE flopping around in the engine bay...would it come loose after a bumpy off road excursion or would the tee bang againest the engine...minor concerns, but someone has to address them...sorry for being nit picky

p.s. do you guys think any muffler shop would fabricate this part? i dont know anyone in the shop business. i was thinking about going to a shop and asking them. thanks again

Dr. Zhivago

Phil,

That's weird about the fitting being loose on yours. Did the pipe move at all after tightening the clamps? If it didn't move, then it was snug and did not need silicone. You could even go as large as 2.75" OD if you needed to.

The hose going to the FPR will need to be trimmed as the end that attached to the Silencer was enlarged versus the rest of the hose. If you get the parts I listed for the Tee, you will not need clamps on them either.

CLin9383,

I am going to make a bracket to support the end of the hose that used to be clamped to Silencer. Since the Silencer is no longer there, the hose has no support on that end. That is why it droops. But, it does not "bang" around in the engine bay. I will post some pics when I make a bracket.

As far as ANY muffler shop making this part, I can't answer that. However, just call around and ask. Go to the shop that gives you the time of day when you tell them what you are trying to achieve.

Good Luck!
Dr. Z

mtnbkr

Does anyone know if the 97s have something like this? I took a look at mine, but didn't see anything that resembled what I saw (after it was removed) in the first posts a while back. All I have are some curved tubes (closed at one end) coming off of my "pipe". No "boxes" or anything...

Wasn't sure if I was missing something...

Chris

Dr. Zhivago

Doesn't anyone READ? :pat: J/K

Hi Chris,

As I noted in my wrtite-up, the 96-98 4Runner intakes are different than mine. Another forum member and I are working on a solution for them. He owns a 98 model. He has, in the meantime, closed off the inlets to the three boxes hanging off the main tube, parts 9, 10 & 11 in the picture below. He used Duct Tape to cover the openings. This is only a temporary fix and it was done to test the effectiveness of removing the Silencers and Resonators on his system. He noted an improvement in performance as the result of this. To try it yourself, remove each box, clean it really well, and cover the opening of it with Duct Tape, then clamp it back in place.

Here's the pic:



I believe that the parts for my truck's intake will fit on the 96-98. You could then do my mod as outlined. I look at the intake gemoetry and it seems identical to me. The same throttle bodies are used and the diameter of the hoses and the exit of the MAF look the same to me. If you could find parts 10 & 11 along with the clamps, part 13, in the pic below at a wrecking yard, you could try this yourself.



A wrecking yard quoted me $45 plus shipping for all of those parts. New at the dealer, they are over $60.

Hope this helps Dr. Z

CBDenver

All,

Has anyone tried this on a 3.4L 97 yet? Any advice for us wanting to try it? Please give us an update if anyone has done it with parts etc.!

Thanks in advance!