Texas_Ace

That is actually one of the easier looking head jobs I have seen. FWD cars are super cramped and hard to get to.

1 or 2 bolts taking the majority of the time is not uncommon at all. I spent an entire day and a half one 1 stinking bolt when installing my headers.

sometimes you can put it together before installing the head, others not. Really depends on the room you have to work with. If you can have the manifolds attatched and them clear EVERYTHING so there is zero change of them hitting or binding on anything and they are out of your way to work on the head, then it is possible to put them on before installing the head.

The most important thing is to get it installed flat and the head bolts tightened down in the correct order and to the correct specs. Do it in steps as well, 10lb, then 20 and so on until the final value is reached. Be sure to use some head bolt lube on the bolts before instilling them as well.

ARP makes some good stuff but most parts stores will have something as well. Grease can be used in a pinch.

Too bad you can't find a FSM, that is the best way to get it done. You could try going to the local dealer and see if you can get them to copy the head install section out of the book for you if you give them a few bucks. Some are nicer then others, can't hurt to ask though.

Also, LOL at using JB weld on the exhaust manifold. You would at least need to get it tig welded if you wanted to repair it and that ain't easy or guaranteed.

rworegon

Yota, try the FSM link in my sig. The archive file may still be up.

Texas_Ace

Yep, they still work, just downloaded them all myself as a backup just in case. That should make things easier.

Yota_Stomper

thanks man... I have a 98 Taco with a 3rz-fe

We've got an FSM for 97 with the 3rz-fe
a 98 with a 5ze-fe
and a 2001 with a 3rz-fe...

I'm guessing in the headbolt specs 'should' be the same with any 3rz-fe correct?

Yota_Stomper

me too... LOL... but sadly I don't have the 98 taco with 3rz-fe

Texas_Ace

Use the 97 3rz, the big stuff that you need the FSM for will be right for the most part. Things like vacuum lines and electronics might be different but you should be able to figure that out from the pictures you took before starting.

Biggest things you need are the head bolt order/specs and that should be fine.

Yota_Stomper

Yeah that's what I thought... here's the page from the 97 3rzfe FSM.



so 29 ft-lbs. then.. but what does it mean when it says... if any bolts do not meet torque specification? If it breaks? that would suck....

Texas_Ace

If the bolts break/stretch then they are bad. You need all new bolts anyways so that should not be a problem.

It is an initial 29ft/lb (in several passes, key point) but don't forget the 2 90 degree turns after that. Very important.

B-Fake

Remember it is VERY IMPORTANT to torque the bolts up gradually and in a cross-ways pattern. If you torque them right up to spec on the first go you can warp the head. If the FSM doesn't show a torque sequence I would start from the middle and work to the outside (or front and back as you're looking at it from the front). Start with getting them all hand tight then torque them to 15-18 then 25 then finally to 29 and go over them all again a couple times to make sure they haven't stretched then do the last 90 degrees.

If any of this sounds wrong to anyone please correct me, I haven't had any dealings with torque to yield bolts/studs, but I imagine it's not much different than normal ones. I think the important part is correct torque sequence and bringing them up to spec gradually.

Yota_Stomper

@TA: what do you mean I need new bolts anyways? I didn't get any new bolts.. my current ones look fine. I don't want to buy any more than I have to.. if these bolts will work then I'll just use them

How so I know if the bolts stretch?

I need to know.. cuz I think I'm going to put it back together myself.

Last night and this morning I removed everything from the engine compartment (intake and exhaust manifolds, plenium, feul rail, throttle, etc. labeled everything, with tabs of duck tape that have matching numbers and cleaned up everything as well as I could.





At this point, I think I have a much better handle on things and should be able to finish the job. Plus... no mechanic would even look at this until monday... and with any luck I should be able to pick up my Cylinder head from the machine shop today and that gives me the rest of the weekend to put her back together.

I get the feeling that the machine shop keeps trying to nickle and dime me and keep jacking the price up... so I really don't want to buy new bolts if I don't have to.

the quote started at $405 then.. OH! and extra $80 to resurface, oh and wait... we need to replace that valve that's extra... OH, and maybe other valves need to be replaced too! geez! I thought they were just going to replace all the valves since they are grinding them all... now they are saying that's extra.... and this doesn't even count the $140 for the gasket kit I had to buy and give them.

This just in.. the shop had the head ready they replaced 1 valve which cost $31 !!! I thought they were 8-10 bucks a piece.. oh well... everything with tax is $540.39 I expected 500... extra 40 for the rush seems fair.

Also.. I need to do something about the exhaust manifold... I guess I should just get a new one. Have to price that out... should I just upgrade to some doug thorley's? maybe a junk yard will have a cheap OEM replacement.

Texas_Ace

The stock head bolts are stretch to yield bolts and are supposed to be replaced after being removed. You can try reusing them but should one stretch after it is installed it will warp the head. They are usually pretty cheap directly from toyota, not sure about where you are.

You can try reusing them though, just pay real careful attention to how they torque and make sure they are all the same.

The head rebuild price sounds about right for your location considering everything costs more out there.

For the exhaust manifold, if you want to upgrade to some headers now is the time to do it, I would rather go with a turbo setup personally. They are cheap and easy to install but cost more.

Just price it all out and see what option is best for you.

Yota_Stomper

what exactly would I be looking for?

Also.. stupid question here... but what sort of sealant do you recommend I put on the head gasket...

and another one... do I use the same stuff on all the gaskets? intake manifold, exhaust, etc.

thanks

Texas_Ace

You will want to pay attention to how hard it is to turn the bolts. If one turns more or is harder/easier then the rest, best off replacing it. Make sure to oil them all to ensure even results.

If you use a good quality gasket, preferably a MLS gasket, Install it dry. Sealant just clogs things up. Same for the rest of the gaskets, install dry unless there is some damage or a reason that you will need more sealant.

rworegon

Be sure to clean all the old oil and junk out of the cylinder head bolt holes in the block before re-installing the head.

Yota_Stomper

Thanks.. using Fel-pro HS 9465 PT-2 head kit. I gave this to the machine shop who used the valve gaskets... but the box mentions instructions, and there are no instructions inside the box... I'm guessing the guy at the shop took out the instructions and forgot to put it back in. I'm searching online for installation instructions but I can't find anything.

So with a nice set like this.. you're saying to just install it dry? ..or is it important to hold off until I can track down the installation instructions ?

Yota_Stomper

Yes... thanks for the tip... the Haynes manual say also to thread them with a tap and die kit to make sure the threads are clean and undamaged... is that necessary or is that overkill?

Texas_Ace

Check the felpro website but I am betting they say to install it dry. I am not a big fan of using anything on the head gasket.

Texas_Ace

It is a good idea if you have the tap. Otherwise blowing them out with an air compressor is usually enough and then making sure everything has a nice coating of oil.

Yota_Stomper

thanks that's what I read too... but I thought you mentioned some special head bolt grease I should use?

Also.. I can't find any instructions on Fel-Pro's website.. but everything I'm seeing says install MLS gaskets dry... EXCEPT for a dab of sealant on the top and bottom of the 2 corners by the timing chain.... that sound right to you?

and if so.. what sealant should I use?

Dirt Driver

ARP sells a moly-based head bolt and head stud grease for use with their fasteners, but combining that with factory torque specs will often result in broken bolts. Included in any torque spec is accounting for friction between the fastener and stationary surfaces. The moly lube reduces that friction so the same torque value will generate much more tension in the bolt than using oil.

IMO, use the factory installation method(clean threads with oil or whatever the manual says) with factory torque specs and factory fasteners.

EDIT: And good on ya for attempting something like this. You'll learn a lot, that's for sure.