Mikey410

True!

habanero

I can answer Maf for you- Mass Air Flow. Thing just behind the air filter box that you had to unplug to get the air intake tube off to get to the plugs. It wouldn't like running much unplugged but you'd think you'd get a code from an unplugged MAF.

And after reading another post- the spark plug boot is the part connected to the end of the spark plug wire that gets pushed onto the part of the plug that is left sticking out of your engine after you've installed it. Ignore this if you've figured that out.

I'm still learning too and I hope I keep on learning for as long as I'm breathing.

ricky

I had a similar problem once after doing a bunch of work on the truck. Problem was, I had the intake taken apart, and the MAF was unplugged. Truck would act like ti was starting up, but would immediately die. As soon as I put the flow back to the MAF, all returned to normal. I posted a thread here just like you and had some good help within a few minutes. It was a seriously stupid mistake to make... Unsure if it has anything to do with your problem, but maybe?

throwsomedeez

I once had a similar problem as well... would try to start but would not run after I did my plugs and wires. Turned out that I had one of the connectors to a coil pack not quite in all the way. Made sure that was plugged in tightly and it fired up fine after that.

Mikey410

what do you mean flow back to the MAF whats the flow? and right now I think the problem is that my coils aren't getting connection to the plugs on the important side. inside my boot I think the little springs aren't sitting on the top of the plugs there just screwed in? should I get some needle nose's and stretch the springs so there for sure sitting on the plugs. Or should I just keep my plugs alittle loose so there's connection for sure??

habanero

If I had to guess I think he means electrical flow- he'd forgotten to plug the MAF sensor back in, fixed it and then the truck started.

Do NOT leave your plugs loose! That's a whole other can of worms you don't want to touch. It worked before you messed with it and now it doesn't (welcome to fixing stuff, we almost all have this happen so keep yer hat on and don't worry too much). That would make me think the wires are ok unless they were broken. Why wouldn't your coils work all of a sudden? Do the plugs (other than the electrodes....the things you call needles) look any different than the old ones? What's the brand/plug number? What's changed?

And where's our pics? Both sides, of any connection that has to be messed with to do the job.
You've got to keep us posted, this is kinda fun.

Mikey410

one sec let me get some pics

Mikey410

Mikey410

Note - this is all the pictures from when I had everything undone. I bought new plug boots and still no luck =(

Mikey410

now everyone is telling me that if I undid all the electrical wires and everything and it was low on gas it wouldn't start. they say I should have a lot of gas in it if I undid everything and it would cause it not to fire up? I doubt it but what do you guys think? the gas light is really low but the red light (gas light) is not even on yet..

habanero

Haven't had that problem on my 3.4 but I'm no expert.
Should I mention the battery cable or are you frazzled enough?
Where's the anti-seize on the new plugs? (lack of wouldn't create your situation)
How about a pic of the plugged in MAF for grins?
You've been plugging the coils back in, as well as putting the boots on, I'm sure.
Can't see the last boot on the driver's side rear of engine- good there?
There's an assortment of loose vacuum lines on the right hand side (passenger), all belonging to the intake tube and its knick-knacks. Assuming you had that all buttoned up when you tried to start it.
There's an electrical connection (the only plug with wires going to and from it) on the front of the timing cover, passenger side you can just see in the 1st pic of your second to last post below and off to the side of the power steering fluid reservoir....there's no reason to unplug it but who knows, your truck won't run if it's apart, is that plugged together?

Mikey410

yeah I basically wen't threw every wire and vac connection in the whole engine compartment and made sure their tight and put new boots and still no start.. idk I'm giving up on this one as of right now. this truck needs to be running I can't afford to be missing work because of it and I'm thinking it's something bad. I know everything is hooked up. It has a diagnosis computer hook up and I hear they charge around 90$ to see what's going on I might have to do that If we can't get it running by tomorrow

tampabayota

check the 3 basics ...1 fuel... 2 air... 3 spark

Just_Me69

What about the loose ground on the driver's side of the intake. The brown wires.

punkelberg

what about the wiring to the MAF? I understand you've plugged it back in, but could one of the wires in the harness gotten pulled loose? Have you checked the fuse box?

tampabayota

check ground wire to firewall

4biker

Did you take all of the plugs and wires off at once, or one at a time? If there are some wires that are run improperly, you won't be starting.

badattitude

Just tossing this out there...did you re-assemble the air intake before trying to start it?

Including the hard to see vacume lines behind the throttle body. You probally did...

Mikey410

whats the ground wire and firewall? fuse box was checked, everything including the maf was put back together when it's started (my pics are of when i had everything apart). thought it was a coil bought a new one not the problem. truck starts up to about 700 RPS each time then dies. we are now leaning to a fuel problem (checked to see if the pump was failing via fuel filter, fuel was coming out in a strait line when the engine was turned) obvios not the problem. maybe fuel injection problem? the engine starts and sounds like it's starving for fuel then dies at this point not really any change then from my first post. so still working on it. so many things running across my mind right now I'm thinking my wires inside the all brand new boots aren't touching the tip of the spark plugs there's really no way too tell unless i stretch each one out but that's risky i already snapped one with too much pressure. and thanks everyone for trying to help if this continues we'll have to get it to a shop to run a diagnostic check. it just doesn't make sense i'v spend hours looking threw each connection all over the truck and nothing's loose

Crites_Seth

When you go to push the boot back onto the new plug, you should here it click into place. And after you have plugged the boot into the plug, it should give some resistance before pulling back out. Also, if the truck does run for a period of time, it probably isn't a spark issue. Sounds like fuel to me... Just my $.02