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For all you K&N haters...

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Old 11-09-2007, 09:29 AM
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Originally Posted by mt_goat
Why in the world there is so much loyalty to this 40 year old filter design is beyond me, especially with the new nanofiber technology that just hit the market in the last few years. If the engineering dept at K&N is only half as smart as their marketing dept, I wouldn't be surprised at all to see K&N change over to it soon.
Why not just oil up some cheese cloth and stretch it across all the openings on the airbox?!
Old 11-09-2007, 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by p nut
mt goat just simply said he was fine using the OEM filter on 10psi of boost on his Toyota. Then you came in with, "oem filter can obviously handle plenty of airflow, as no-offense on this one, but 10psi of boost is nothing compared to the boost made by some of today's newest diesels." Again, why did you bring this up and how can you put any sort of comparision on these two completely different engines? If I am mis-reading this, then my bad, but it's either worded weird or you're making an absurd comparison.

Sorry to go off topic. Getting back on track...K&N still sucks.

yeah, the only reason for my comparison, (sorry if it don't make sense) was going back to where we were talkin about the CFM of these different filters. i just said that about the stock filters in the gas and diesel rigs to say that if they flow that much, then the K&N will be able to flow even more...that's what i ws trying to get at. i wasn't trying to compare the actual workings of gas and diesel engines, just how they use very similar OEM filters, and that the K&N would flow more than them.

but i don't know about the K&N still sucks part...lol!...but yes, let's get back to the topic...
Old 11-09-2007, 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by MTL_4runner
Why not just oil up some cheese cloth and stretch it across all the openings on the airbox?!
Yeah Jamie, actually a prefilter is not a bad idea. But my airbox, like most here with a stock setup, breathes entirely from inside the fender and its a little of a PITA to get to. I've heard of guys using some foam furnace filter materal in front of the main filter to just catch the bigger stuff and help the main filter last a little longer. You'd just need to check it every now and then.
Old 11-09-2007, 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by mt_goat
Yeah Jamie, actually a prefilter is not a bad idea. But my airbox, like most here with a stock setup, breathes entirely from inside the fender and its a little of a PITA to get to. I've heard of guys using some foam furnace filter materal in front of the main filter to just catch the bigger stuff and help the main filter last a little longer. You'd just need to check it every now and then.

haha not a bad idea at all...just takes a nw look on the pre-filter concept, but it's definitely an idea to hold onto...
Old 11-09-2007, 10:38 AM
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This is a K&N prefilter (for a dirt bike) I bought back when I was thinking about doing a deck plate mod.



I've been using it for filtering liquids lately like when draining and reusing coolant or something:

Old 11-09-2007, 11:00 AM
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Thanks guys for posting the Bob Is The Oil Guy link. That's a great site. I work for a major filter manufacturer, and our engineers are always referencing it.

I'm an outspoken K&N hater. Anybody with any kind of automotive know-how should realize that there is no free lunch. This means that there is no such thing as a million-mile filter that flows better and traps more dirt.
It's impossible. With higher flow you sacrifice filtration efficiency and/or capacity. With higher filtration efficiency, you sacrifice flow rate.


I'm only half joking when I say "If you want low-cost filtration with higher flow, then take your filter out altogether for maximum results"

Mt_goat is correct about the OE filters. The stock Toyota filter should not be thought of as a paper filter. This implies that they just made it out of some odd paper material. In fact, it's a carefully designed balance of efficiency, capacity, economy, and flow rate.

The "high tech" nanofiber filters by Amsoil only negligibly outperform the OEM filters.
Old 11-09-2007, 11:14 AM
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True flow on order...K&N for sale...
Old 11-09-2007, 11:43 AM
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Originally Posted by MTL_4runner
Why not just oil up some cheese cloth and stretch it across all the openings on the airbox?!
and use band-aids to secure it. and add a little more oil to the gauze
Old 11-09-2007, 01:16 PM
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One reasone the nanofibers will never take off is becasue they are not pleated like a paper or K&N, If you watch the video you can see as it traps the dirt it covers the face of the filter in this case only maybe .25 square feet. But a paper or K&N pleated has about 3 to 4 times the surface area and will take much longer to clog, so as I said before power is about pressure drop. If you put in one of those filters you will be down on power by the end of the trail, because the pressure drop and total CFM may be limited. So as some people are speculating if someone say K&N were to plete this nano-fiber material, I think we might have a winner that would do both the low pressure drop and filter better. Any one ever mowed laws for a living, you would know about how fast flat foam filters clog. Also him testing at 100 cfm is a joke, most engines may pull that off idle. 3-400 cfm would be a better test. Race cars or good v-8 may pull 600-1000+ cfm. And that may be a good claim that the HP results are not there for this pathetic 3.4. becasue it is a low CFM engine. And on that boosted 3.4, I would at least dyno with both and see. I have way more advanced fans and Dwyer test equipment than "bob" has, so I may do an independent test and see at what point the paper filter will stop flowing cfm. And check the difference in pressure drops than he got, because he tested at 1 fixed cfm, pressure drop increases with increased flow. Here is some flow data on the back of one of my spec sheets http://www.unitedenertech.com/catalog/pdf/FL-D-4.pdf

look at the 3rd page.

Last edited by tntempest; 11-09-2007 at 01:24 PM.
Old 11-09-2007, 05:32 PM
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Originally Posted by surf4runner
and use band-aids to secure it. and add a little more oil to the gauze
I hear the MAF needs to be well lubed for maximum airflow!
Old 11-09-2007, 05:37 PM
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Originally Posted by tntempest
I have way more advanced fans and Dwyer test equipment than "bob" has, so I may do an independent test and see at what point the paper filter will stop flowing cfm. And check the difference in pressure drops than he got, because he tested at 1 fixed cfm, pressure drop increases with increased flow.

TN, if you have sophisticated equipment for testing those it would be a crying shame not to test at least a few for everyone's benefit and post the results. I also agree with you, testing at 100 CFM is a total joke and 250-400 CFM would be alot more realistic for a 3.4L motor.

Last edited by MTL_4runner; 11-09-2007 at 05:40 PM.
Old 11-10-2007, 04:06 AM
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Originally Posted by MTL_4runner
... I also agree with you, testing at 100 CFM is a total joke and 250-400 CFM would be alot more realistic for a 3.4L motor.
True flow probably used that lower flow to scew the test results in their favor.
Old 11-10-2007, 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by mt_goat
True flow probably used that lower flow to scew the test results in their favor.
x2 on this one, as the lower rate of flow would probably help the dirt stay on top of the filter instead of sucking it through...just my thought...
Old 11-10-2007, 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by mt_goat
True flow probably used that lower flow to scew the test results in their favor.
Probably true, because they would not want to show any amount of dirt getting through into the engine... But, wouldn't all of the filters get worse as the CFM increased? I would think that the higher air flow would result in more dirt getting sucked through all of the filters.
Old 11-10-2007, 10:52 PM
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Originally Posted by mikes19984x4
true there, as in my opinion every man to his own. but yeah, where i live, it's dusty and add in going off-roading and all kinds of hunting trips throughout the year, i chose K&N because mine needs to be washed about every 5k - 8k miles, depending on what part of the year it is...
You can wash out the Toyota air filters as well. Just use water and allow it to dry a bit before installing. Afterwards, it's not 'good as new' but it's much better than having a plugged filter.

When new parts are available, for the $20, I'd just toss in a new genuine Toyota filter.
Old 11-11-2007, 04:59 AM
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I love it someone actually takes the time and money to do product testing and proves that there really is not that much of a filtering difference and first you try to knock the tests. It ain't real world and its not a controlled environment.
Then the K&N haters come on and spout their personal opinions and the whiners run to mama and say I'm gonna change I have been bad.
WTF? Yeah you are right those Baja guys don't have a clue the fine silt in the desert just jumps to the side when they go by they really don't need the 800 hp. And the f-1 guys don't have to worry they will rebuild it (they have the technology) if they don't need them then why put a filter at all? I got a screen door I changed out I will let them have it for free.
They use them because they work and they do what they are supposed to do FLOW AIR! Toyota uses a box and paper to keep the truck quiet! DUH! Only reason is cause it is quiet.
I will continue to keep my CAI and recommend them, brand does not matter. The deck plate mod is popular because its cheap and people realize the stock air box is restrictive.
Ford actually offers CAI and gauze filter for their new full size trucks.
If ya want to give me a hassle go back to the original post and look at the tests. NO REAL DIFFERENCE!
Old 11-11-2007, 06:41 AM
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Oh well then if Ford uses them they must be the best.
Old 11-11-2007, 07:47 AM
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Originally Posted by mt_goat
Oh well then if Ford uses them they must be the best.
if you say so just don't eat it!
Old 11-11-2007, 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by xsvtoyz
I will continue to keep my CAI and recommend them, brand does not matter.
So Toyota, who spends MILLIONS in R&D knows nothing compared to some cheap ebay company whose only research consisted of going to Home Depot and picking out the cheapest piping they can find. turbulence, tapered tubing, etc. don't really matter, I guess.

Take your rig with the CAI to the drag strip, run 18 sec. Then watch a stock T4R run the exact same time. Then go home and clean your MAF.
Old 11-11-2007, 08:44 AM
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Originally Posted by p nut
So Toyota, who spends MILLIONS in R&D knows nothing compared to some cheap ebay company whose only research consisted of going to Home Depot and picking out the cheapest piping they can find. turbulence, tapered tubing, etc. don't really matter, I guess.

Take your rig with the CAI to the drag strip, run 18 sec. Then watch a stock T4R run the exact same time. Then go home and clean your MAF.
ok at least I will be having fun and not talking about having fun.



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