3.4L 99 4Runner: cranking, but not starting.
05-01-2006, 04:03 AM
#61
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Glad you finally got it!
Sometimes stuff that happens is not always logical (ie run out of gas and the idler decides to go), but you can solve it logically.
Sometimes stuff that happens is not always logical (ie run out of gas and the idler decides to go), but you can solve it logically.
05-01-2006, 05:19 AM
#63
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That's so cool that you had the persistence to really stick to it and get it running again. Congrats on getting it running, and thanks for posting your info here. I'm sure your information can be a valuable lesson to anybody else who may wonder down this path.
05-01-2006, 05:37 AM
#64
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Originally Posted by AJatx
After assembling everything together and firing it up, the engine started right away and then died (CEL pointed to Idle Control and the connector wasn't seated all the way). After re-seating the idle air control valve, the engine is rock solid at 800rpm.
Everything is running smooth so far.
The failure analysis:
-------------------
Obviously the idler pulley #2 failed. Not exactly sure why it failed, but maybe it's a good idea to replace it during a timing belt replacement. There's a reason why the local dealers stock this part.
The pulley started to develop more friction after the seal fell out since there are no spacers to keep the ball bearings in the proper positions. It's enough to catch on the belt a little to cause the heat spots on the timing belt. At one point, it was good enough to stop the belt while the crank kept spinning. So, the cams stayed synchronized to each other since they are driven by the crank (source) while the crank slipped out of synch.
Prologue:
--------
The failure occurrence is coincidental to running the fuel tank on empty. I knew it had a tad bit more gas since I have run very low on "E" plenty of times.
Anyhow, it is a tedious process but very fulfilling when you resolve the issue.
Thanks for many recommendations and experiences. I took the long route of checking the cheapest stuff, but ultimately it is timing related. It takes longer to logically check everything (spark, fuel, timing, etc).
Rollin' again,
J
Everything is running smooth so far.
The failure analysis:
-------------------
Obviously the idler pulley #2 failed. Not exactly sure why it failed, but maybe it's a good idea to replace it during a timing belt replacement. There's a reason why the local dealers stock this part.
The pulley started to develop more friction after the seal fell out since there are no spacers to keep the ball bearings in the proper positions. It's enough to catch on the belt a little to cause the heat spots on the timing belt. At one point, it was good enough to stop the belt while the crank kept spinning. So, the cams stayed synchronized to each other since they are driven by the crank (source) while the crank slipped out of synch.
Prologue:
--------
The failure occurrence is coincidental to running the fuel tank on empty. I knew it had a tad bit more gas since I have run very low on "E" plenty of times.
Anyhow, it is a tedious process but very fulfilling when you resolve the issue.
Thanks for many recommendations and experiences. I took the long route of checking the cheapest stuff, but ultimately it is timing related. It takes longer to logically check everything (spark, fuel, timing, etc).
Rollin' again,
J
Love the way you lay out your posts.
I caught the #2 idler on my 3.0 about 15 mins before it quit I reckon
Truck was making a lot of water pump noise so originally, I was just replacing that but seems most of the noise was the #2 idler.
After I removed it, the play in the bearing was rediculous. I have a timing belt coming up on my 3.4 so I will pick up a #2 idler.
David
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