eddieleephd

I am now in Georgia so that kinda sticks a wrench in swapping parts...

pendrag

I'm looking into picking up a OBDII monitor to see if I can read what my sensors are saying.

eddieleephd

Pepboys had a nice one for around 130 if I remember correctly

beebee

I've had a similar problem with my car, and tried most of the remedies you have. Did you ever figure out what the problem is?

CYi5

My 4runner does this at stop lights now as well...laame...155k on the clock.

J2F42C

it has been close to a year since I helped my friend change his out. The biggest problem he had was his transmission took forever to shift out of 2nd when cold. Eleven years of the same coolant covered the sensor, thus the ECT not telling the computer how fast the car was warming up (incorrect readings within the first minute of start up). Now, with new coolant and a new sensor, his 4 runner is good to go.

I'd change the sensor regardless if it is original and the coolant has not been flushed every 2~3 years. If anyone wants a detailed writeup, let me know. I would look though towards the IAC, dirty TB, or a bad vacuum line for a fix.



The sensor is supposed to be brass colored, not milky. crusty white.

beebee

If you've already checked all the usual suspects (MAF, IAC valve, cleaned throttle body, vacuum hoses, TPS sensor, etc.) I would check your harmonic balancer/crank bolt/crankshaft sensor. Based on the mileage, i would assume you've changed the timing belt. If the the crank bolt wasn't tightened properly when the belt was changed, it could lead to the harmonic balancer working it's way loose and grinding down the end of the crankshaft. May cause the crankshaft sensor to be off also. I had the same problem, stalling at idle, and tried every solution possible. Needless to say, never came across any mention of this problem. The harmonic balancer eventually separated, had a groove worn on the inside of it from the loose crank bolt. The crankshaft was damaged, and needed replaced. Wasn't worth the money to replace, so i sold the car. Not sure if that was the sole culprit of the idle problem, but it seems possible.

CYi5

Cleaning the IAC fixed my issue. It was pretty gummed up with black muck.

mt_goat

Any update on this, did you ever figure it out? I'm having the same problem.

eddieleephd

Mt.Goat,
You are pretty diligent, so i will ask have you done a temp sensor? cleaned your maf? and when was the last time you had O2 sensors replaced?
Have you broken your coolant line lately?
When I had a weird idle issue just cleaning the TB and purging the coolant line remedied it.
GOOD LUCK!

mt_goat

Ok, here's what I've done so far to try and resolve the issue:

Cleaned the IAC valve by removing it, replaced with new gaskets, no change. I didn't test it while it was out (mistake).

Swapped out MAF with known good, no change.

Swapped out front A/F sensor with known good, no change.

This all started about 60 miles after I put in new plugs so I might swap the old plugs back in and try that.

I'll test the resistance on the IAC too.

It will stall at idle after warming up.

EDIT: I also swapped out the throttle position sensor with known good, no change.

eddieleephd

From what you said, I would say burp the IAC Valve. did you re-grease the down tube contacts? and last check the resistance on the wires themselves... and grease with contact grease the contacts on the wires from the ignitor to the coil packs. The timing of the issue lends it to not be the temp sensor but you never know.
I remember before I knew which plugs to use and to grease the drop tubes I had a rough idle issue and when I used cooler plugs the idle dropped, so it tends to sound like to much resistance on the idle.
Otherwise cleaning the flapper valve and TB and burping the IAC were the cures to that except I still run the cooler plugs so lower idle just not rough or stalling.

mt_goat

Thanks Eddie, by contact grease do you mean dielectric grease?

The resistance of the IAC valve was within range cold, I'll see if I can test it hot later.

ThatGuy1295

Oil in the air resonator? Thats a weird one. Stuck pcv valve maybe. That would cause a vacuum leak and possibly account for the low idle. Especially if its pulling air from inside the block. Hot, oily air would cause low idle. Unlike most vacuum leaks that cause high idle. Just a thought.

mt_goat

I reread the OP problem and mine is different, mine will idle low and stall in drive, reverse, park or neutral, it doesn't seem to matter. But it does have to be warmed up, cold it idles fine. Once or twice it stalled going around a corner and I suddenly lost power steering.

I may try some injector cleaner as someone said earlier and adjust the idle up with the throttle cable long enough to run a tank or 2 of gas through it.

eddieleephd

at most auto parts stores they sell contact grease that is silicon in little packages, I use dielectric.
I have heard of people using vaseline with the same results.
Others argue that only a conductive grease should be used, main purpose is eliminating corrosion! thus maintaining contact.

mt_goat

Yeah I used a little dielectric grease on the spark plug tops and a little copper anti-seize on the threads.

eddieleephd

Did you figure it out?

mt_goat

I'm running a can of BG44 through the gas tank right now. I also set the idle up with the throttle cable temporally until I can use up this tank of gas.

Thanks for asking

mt_goat

It seemed like maybe the BG44 was helping some, or maybe the idle set higher was masking the problem. Then today it started running really rough just cruising along 30-40 mph, I barely made it home, it died twice while driving. But the good news is it finally threw some codes! Finally some clues, here they are P0340 and P1135.