yotarob2005's 1986 4Runner Build-Up Thread
03-12-2010, 08:51 AM
#42
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Thread Starter
UPS just dropped off my head gasket set from ENGNBLDR. I am very pleased, this set includes a lot of gaskets that I didn't expect it too. I also got new head bolts. Unfortunatlly, I don't think I am going to have much free time this weekend to work on putting the motor back together.
03-13-2010, 07:43 AM
#43
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Thread Starter
After a bunch of searching, I have decided to pack my oil pump with Sta-lube marine wheel bearing grease to "prime" it.
I bought some VHT header paint to dress up my exhaust manifold, it says it is flame proof & good up to 2000 deg. Trying to track down a decent source for some 10mm x 1.25 lock nuts to replace the rusty one on my exhaust manifold with out getting rapped at the dealership. Anyone have any ideas? I tried Mc master Karr, but all they have in nylon inserted which would not hold up to the heat, none of my local stores have any.
I bought some VHT header paint to dress up my exhaust manifold, it says it is flame proof & good up to 2000 deg. Trying to track down a decent source for some 10mm x 1.25 lock nuts to replace the rusty one on my exhaust manifold with out getting rapped at the dealership. Anyone have any ideas? I tried Mc master Karr, but all they have in nylon inserted which would not hold up to the heat, none of my local stores have any.
03-16-2010, 04:53 AM
#44
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Thread Starter
It has been a few days since I really got anything done, I did manage to get the engine compartment cleaned over the weekend.
Last night I set out to lap the valves. It was somethnig new for me, but once I got going it went very well. I did all of the intake valves first, the sealing surfaces looked to be in pretty good shape and I spent maybe 10 minutes per valve polishing them with the fine grit compound. Then the exhaust valves where a whole nother story! The sealing surfaces where COVERED in carbon build-up. I only got 2 of the exhaust valves done because I had to work them for well over an hour each, but they still came out great, just took a bunch of time to restore the finish on them. I did not take any pics because I left my camera at work but I will get some tonight when I finish the last 2 valves. I feel good about what I am doing here, pretty damn sure that I was loosing some compression around the exhaust valves. Also replaces the valve seals as I went.
Last night I set out to lap the valves. It was somethnig new for me, but once I got going it went very well. I did all of the intake valves first, the sealing surfaces looked to be in pretty good shape and I spent maybe 10 minutes per valve polishing them with the fine grit compound. Then the exhaust valves where a whole nother story! The sealing surfaces where COVERED in carbon build-up. I only got 2 of the exhaust valves done because I had to work them for well over an hour each, but they still came out great, just took a bunch of time to restore the finish on them. I did not take any pics because I left my camera at work but I will get some tonight when I finish the last 2 valves. I feel good about what I am doing here, pretty damn sure that I was loosing some compression around the exhaust valves. Also replaces the valve seals as I went.
Last edited by yotarob2005; 03-16-2010 at 05:38 AM.
03-16-2010, 04:58 AM
#45
YotaTech Milestone-Two Millionth Post
It has been a few days since I really got anything done, I did manage to get the engine compartment cleaned over the weekend.
Last night I set out to lap the valves. It was somethnig new for me, but once I got going it went very well. I did all of the intake valves first, the sealing surfaces looked to be in pretty good shape and I spent maybe 10 minutes per valve polishing them with the fine grit compound. Then the exhaust valves where a whole nother story! The sealing surfaces where COVERED in carbon build-up. I only got 2 of the exhaust valves done because I had to work them for well over an hour each, but they still came out great, just took a bunch of time to restore the finish on them. I did not take any pics because I left my camera at work but I will get some tonight when I finish the last 2 valves. I feel good about what I am doing here, pretty damn sure that I was loosing some compression around the exhaust valves.
Last night I set out to lap the valves. It was somethnig new for me, but once I got going it went very well. I did all of the intake valves first, the sealing surfaces looked to be in pretty good shape and I spent maybe 10 minutes per valve polishing them with the fine grit compound. Then the exhaust valves where a whole nother story! The sealing surfaces where COVERED in carbon build-up. I only got 2 of the exhaust valves done because I had to work them for well over an hour each, but they still came out great, just took a bunch of time to restore the finish on them. I did not take any pics because I left my camera at work but I will get some tonight when I finish the last 2 valves. I feel good about what I am doing here, pretty damn sure that I was loosing some compression around the exhaust valves.
sounds like you and me are at about the same point here.
glad to hear, doing the valves not such a big deal....give me a clue or a linky as to how to do that...i haven't really searched that one yet.
supposed to be around 60 today so i think i will get some stuff done.
03-16-2010, 05:35 AM
#46
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Thread Starter
Here is the first link that I found for the clover compound I am using.
http://www.amazon.com/Greased-Silico.../dp/B002P51XVS
I have 100 grit for a course & 320 for fine, or finish. It is basicly grease with silicon carbide grit mixed in & the idea is to release the valve spring & put the grease between the valve & valve seat & re-install the valve with out the spring. The suction cup tool (pictured below) goes on the face of the valve and gives you a handle to turn the valve while holding light pressure against the valve seat. Doing this will make the 2 sealing surfaces mate.
From what I was told about it, you should turn it both directions, back & forth, at a pretty slow rate. It is not a good idea to grab the valve stem in a drill or other rotory device to turn it, belive me I was tempted too. The tool worked great on the intake valves but I had a hard time getting it to stick on the exhaust vlaves. The end with the big cup was just a little too big & the small end was a little too small.
92 TOY, I highly recomend that you take the time to do this IF you do not plan on taking your head in for a valve job. Lapping the valves is what is known as a poor mans valve job & it isn't hard or expensive to do. I originally wasn't going to bother with it, but a good freind convinced me to go ahead & do it since I was going to have to pull the valve springs out to change the valve seals anyway. Boy am I glad I did because my exhaust valves where in pretty bad shape. Like I said, I will get you some pictures up late tonight or tommorow morning.
http://www.amazon.com/Greased-Silico.../dp/B002P51XVS
I have 100 grit for a course & 320 for fine, or finish. It is basicly grease with silicon carbide grit mixed in & the idea is to release the valve spring & put the grease between the valve & valve seat & re-install the valve with out the spring. The suction cup tool (pictured below) goes on the face of the valve and gives you a handle to turn the valve while holding light pressure against the valve seat. Doing this will make the 2 sealing surfaces mate.
From what I was told about it, you should turn it both directions, back & forth, at a pretty slow rate. It is not a good idea to grab the valve stem in a drill or other rotory device to turn it, belive me I was tempted too. The tool worked great on the intake valves but I had a hard time getting it to stick on the exhaust vlaves. The end with the big cup was just a little too big & the small end was a little too small.
92 TOY, I highly recomend that you take the time to do this IF you do not plan on taking your head in for a valve job. Lapping the valves is what is known as a poor mans valve job & it isn't hard or expensive to do. I originally wasn't going to bother with it, but a good freind convinced me to go ahead & do it since I was going to have to pull the valve springs out to change the valve seals anyway. Boy am I glad I did because my exhaust valves where in pretty bad shape. Like I said, I will get you some pictures up late tonight or tommorow morning.
Last edited by yotarob2005; 03-16-2010 at 05:36 AM.
03-16-2010, 05:53 AM
#47
YotaTech Milestone-Two Millionth Post
thanks...
yeah LUMPY posted a pic of the tool a while back (somewhere on my thread) and also a video link of a guy doing it. I know you have to compress the spring (right?) and i was just curious how to do that....is there a tool for that? or is it just a matter of getting a good suction on the valve.
i was just doing some putzy work on mine. will post up on my thread as soon as the pics load.
yeah LUMPY posted a pic of the tool a while back (somewhere on my thread) and also a video link of a guy doing it. I know you have to compress the spring (right?) and i was just curious how to do that....is there a tool for that? or is it just a matter of getting a good suction on the valve.
i was just doing some putzy work on mine. will post up on my thread as soon as the pics load.
03-16-2010, 06:05 AM
#48
Registered User
Thread Starter
Yes there are several types of tools to compress the spring, I will take a picture of the one I am using. I was able to borrow it from a freind which saved me some money. I'm pretty sure you can rent them from the auto parts store.
03-17-2010, 04:32 AM
#49
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Thread Starter
I got a pretty late start last night but did finish lapping the valves. I realy,really tried to get some before & after pics of the valves but I could not get a picture close enough to show the detail without ending up blury. I guess you guys are going to have to take my word for it that all of the valves look great & I am 100% confident that I did some good getting them to seal. I hope to get an earlier start today after work, maybe with one more day of prepping/ cleaning & 1 more trip to the auto part store for odds & ends, I will have this thing all ready to be put back together.......I hope.
03-17-2010, 05:32 AM
#51
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Thread Starter
If anyone want to throw an old tired dog a bone, I am searching for torque specs. I do have a Chilton manual but it seems to be pretty worthless for torque specs. Does anyone have a link to the FSM or a nice chart would be great.
03-17-2010, 05:49 AM
#52
YotaTech Milestone-Two Millionth Post
What specs are you looking for? I'd be happy to post up what I already know.
03-17-2010, 06:16 AM
#54
YotaTech Milestone-Two Millionth Post
oil pan are 9 ft/lbs
timing cover says 8mm bolts (apparently NOT head size but actual thread size) are 9 ft/lb and 10mm bolts are 29 ft / lbs
as far as the pumps go, I cannot find that info....
timing cover says 8mm bolts (apparently NOT head size but actual thread size) are 9 ft/lb and 10mm bolts are 29 ft / lbs
as far as the pumps go, I cannot find that info....
03-17-2010, 06:22 AM
#56
YotaTech Milestone-Two Millionth Post
I get TED from ENGNBLDR will know.
the thing is, in the FSM in the back, it has a way to read the bolts to determine specs....this shape bolt with this size thread width with this many markings equals this many ft/lbs.
03-17-2010, 06:29 AM
#58
YotaTech Milestone-Two Millionth Post
I'm gonna disagree......although not quite sure.....but, of course, now I will look....but the manuals all are mostly worthless to me.....hell all of them together couldn't get my oil pan off the right way until I came up with a new way........GO ME!!!!!!
03-17-2010, 06:31 AM
#59
Registered User
Thread Starter
Water pump torque specs:
6mm bolts w/ 10 mm head are torqued to 13 ftlb's
Long 8mm bolt w/ 12 mm head is torqued to 14 ftlb's
my source.
http://wiki.answers.com/Q/What_the_t...ter_pump_bolts
6mm bolts w/ 10 mm head are torqued to 13 ftlb's
Long 8mm bolt w/ 12 mm head is torqued to 14 ftlb's
my source.
http://wiki.answers.com/Q/What_the_t...ter_pump_bolts
Last edited by yotarob2005; 03-17-2010 at 06:32 AM.
03-17-2010, 06:32 AM
#60
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Thread Starter
