RMP8080 89 4RUNNER Resurrection Buildup
#21
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I didnt know there was a difference, I am wondering if it was because of the trucks changed that year and some reason they didnt catch on to it. Really no help, and I have only seen on 89 and didnt see any major changes on it.
I will try and pull a lower mount off of my 88 tomorrow and post a pic.
I will try and pull a lower mount off of my 88 tomorrow and post a pic.
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I feel they are probably the same. Here is a few pics for reassurance. This is the one on the rear,drivers side.
It is about 1 7/8th inch wide and about the same long. Washer is only 1 1/2 inch. 14 mm nut.
It is about 1 7/8th inch wide and about the same long. Washer is only 1 1/2 inch. 14 mm nut.
#23
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Hi RMP. I have an '89 4Runner too. It was manufactured in Oct '88. I also had an '88 from new til it was 8 years old. The ONLY difference I have found is that my '89 has a plastic power steering canister and yours does too. Not sure if they are replacements or the factory was trasitioning. Most other 1st gen 4Runners have a gold color canister with a "T" on the cap. The body and frame are the same so I'm sure the '88 mounts will fit.
There is so much confusion with the '89 trucks and 4Runners being two different generation styles that I usually call it an '88 when I'm trying to find parts. There might be a difference in the 22RE motor; I'm not sure. I do have a (hard to find) '89 4Runner FSM. I looked at the body mounts but don't see a difference.
There is so much confusion with the '89 trucks and 4Runners being two different generation styles that I usually call it an '88 when I'm trying to find parts. There might be a difference in the 22RE motor; I'm not sure. I do have a (hard to find) '89 4Runner FSM. I looked at the body mounts but don't see a difference.
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Nervo19, thanks, I think Toyota had a lot of spare parts laying around in 88, so they build the same for 89, until the 2nd gen 4Runner was ready.
Nice Runner.....Bill
Nice Runner.....Bill
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Restore Rust?
The L Trim around the driverside side window looks bad (RUST) I do not know if it can be restored.
The window it self, hope it can be reused..........
More Rust Driverside
And this was the driverside only, have not look at the otherside
The window it self, hope it can be reused..........
More Rust Driverside
And this was the driverside only, have not look at the otherside
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Ahh I remember those days! Good luck to you on the rust fixes. I can tell you that POR15 and fiberglass reinforced bondo with wire mesh did wonders for mine! I don't know if enough time has surpassed for me to comment on the longevity but so far so good.
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unless you are going for a stock look, this runner would be perfectly suited for some wheel well clearncing. cant rot agian if its not there! fyi be careful with por15. I went crazy with it and covered a lot of stuff on my runner. where the metal was rusted it bonded perfectly. where the metal was not rusted and i had painted it. the por didnt bond verry well at all and created a pocket for water to collect and ended up causing me a lot more rot then if i had left it alone.
Last edited by riddarunner; 03-20-2012 at 06:47 PM.
#28
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My rear fenders were as bad. One of these days I'm going to do a build thread. I wish I took more pictures. I used Eastwood products. I used naval jelly and a car wash to get a lot of rust off, then Eastwood Rust converter (turned the rust black) and then Eastwood Rust Encapsulator. Then I came in from inside the fender with fiberglass mat +epoxy. The final skin coat is Rage filler. The Bondo with fiberglass would probably work well too. You can get fiberglass mat (not the cloth) at Walmart for a small section. Try to keep the Rage or regular Bondo thinner than a dime. It's hard to tell but it looks like you can probably rehab that L molding from the top. I would try JB Weld or the metal Bondo on the pitting and small holes. Personally I hate the idea of trimmed fenders because it will leave the inner fenders open to more rust and collecting dirt. Trimming serves it's purpose for a mud truck but my goal was a factory new look.
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My son has done a lot of body on older vehicles so he is taking the lead on this, front fenders will be replaced, thanks for the info.....
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My rear fenders were as bad. One of these days I'm going to do a build thread. I wish I took more pictures. I used Eastwood products. I used naval jelly and a car wash to get a lot of rust off, then Eastwood Rust converter (turned the rust black) and then Eastwood Rust Encapsulator. Then I came in from inside the fender with fiberglass mat +epoxy. The final skin coat is Rage filler. The Bondo with fiberglass would probably work well too. You can get fiberglass mat (not the cloth) at Walmart for a small section. Try to keep the Rage or regular Bondo thinner than a dime. It's hard to tell but it looks like you can probably rehab that L molding from the top. I would try JB Weld or the metal Bondo on the pitting and small holes. Personally I hate the idea of trimmed fenders because it will leave the inner fenders open to more rust and collecting dirt. Trimming serves it's purpose for a mud truck but my goal was a factory new look.
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unless you are going for a stock look, this runner would be perfectly suited for some wheel well clearncing. cant rot agian if its not there! fyi be careful with por15. I went crazy with it and covered a lot of stuff on my runner. where the metal was rusted it bonded perfectly. where the metal was not rusted and i had painted it. the por didnt bond verry well at all and created a pocket for water to collect and ended up causing me a lot more rot then if i had left it alone.
#32
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Play around with the 4runner yesterday, got the front drive shift out, pull the front sway bar and loosen the cross member bolts (broke one) The front driveside cva booth needs relacement. Oh changed the rims and wheels from 30 9.50 15 to 31 10.50 15, looks good, also removed the mud flips on the driverside....
CVA Booth
Sway bar out.
CVA Booth
Sway bar out.
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The front end looks really solid and in great shape other then the boots. I think the 31s look better on these trucks. I actually feel it helps with mileage a little. Not much but some. I like the ride better with 31s.
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thanks, Terry, the tires are from the 87, I heard the same thing about mileage. I may move up to 33 after the 31 need to be replaced.
Heres a picture of the 31's, almost brand new.....
Heres a picture of the 31's, almost brand new.....
#35
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Day off yesterday, so back to the 4runner, did some rust removal on the side window.
before
after
Removed some of the ez bolts from the transmission just the top left, while using the saw-all with my only blade trying to remove the exhaust broke last blade.....well always something.
here's the 31's on the front
This coming weekend I'll be off from work and may get more done.
oh, here is the label under the hood
before
after
Removed some of the ez bolts from the transmission just the top left, while using the saw-all with my only blade trying to remove the exhaust broke last blade.....well always something.
here's the 31's on the front
This coming weekend I'll be off from work and may get more done.
oh, here is the label under the hood
#36
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The window looks good! There's also a label under the hood that shows where vacuum lines go. I wish I could get repros of them.
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I checked with the dealership here in KC and they said I could get all of those stickers for fairly cheap through them. Vacuum Line Maps, the 22-RE sticker on front of the valve cover, etc. I'm even going to buy a owner's manual from them since mine didn't come with one.
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Your weekend will flyby when working on these. Hope all goes as planned. I will be off to the boneyard tomorrow. If I can get a good pic of a manual label with vacuum lines I will.
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Yea, Terry, I'm working today it's the 30th already, Satursday's forecast is for rain and Sunday maybe better, I got a honey-do-list trying to get out of it, will see. Have a great day hopefully you can get the 4runner running and mostly completed......Bill