rattlewagon's 1992 Pickup Build-Up Thread
#701
Registered User
Thread Starter
Way back, my step dad was rebuilding the mechanical fuel pump on his mini-ex and had is sitting very carefully on the back of the machine waiting for parts. If it was picked up or moved, parts would fall "in" and he would have to take it apart again. So he put a sign up so people wouldn't move it or pick it up, and the sign said just that. We took a picture and had it made into a sticker.. haha.
Need one? I have a few more still.
Need one? I have a few more still.
#702
Registered User
Thread Starter
I agree. I was a 3.0 fan UNTIL I got the 3.4 in, then I wished I did it years ago.
#703
Contributing Member
Way back, my step dad was rebuilding the mechanical fuel pump on his mini-ex and had is sitting very carefully on the back of the machine waiting for parts. If it was picked up or moved, parts would fall "in" and he would have to take it apart again. So he put a sign up so people wouldn't move it or pick it up, and the sign said just that. We took a picture and had it made into a sticker.. haha.
Need one? I have a few more still.
Need one? I have a few more still.
When it's not broken the blue thing is my daily driver, being an elementary school lunch lady I'd have to store it until I retired...
How fun would it be if the kids were to sound that one out?
The following 2 users liked this post by rattlewagon:
habanero (09-12-2023),
Hairyberry (09-14-2023)
#705
Registered User
Thread Starter
Reds have been great in rocks, less in mud. Played around with sticky treps on the back which seemed to work pretty well.
Cheapy amazon rock lights.
I needed to replace a broken hub stud, and figured it was a good time for an upgrade. I removed the 3/8 stud and cone washer in favor of a 7/16th stud.
a 1.25 length was just about the perfect length as the stock length, the allen heads so you can still get the wheel on.
Drilled all the holes to 3/8, then to 25/64th, which was the size the tap called for.
Tapped to 7/16 -20, Hubs needed to be drilled to 29/64th to clear the 7/16 stud. It takes up just about all of the taper, really fits the larger bolts well
On and torqued to 70lbs. Absolute thrilled to have gotten rid of the cone washer here.
I ran into a little problem here as I could not drill through the TG chromo drive flange. Even bought a "hard metal" bit from the local hardware store and didnt touch it. So I went back to locking hubs with chromo gears for now. I did have to drill the back of the hub out too to match the extra dowel pins from the drive flange.
The 3.4 may have a cracked head or start of a HG going. Lots of wheeling coming up this winter so well see how long it lasts.
Cheapy amazon rock lights.
I needed to replace a broken hub stud, and figured it was a good time for an upgrade. I removed the 3/8 stud and cone washer in favor of a 7/16th stud.
a 1.25 length was just about the perfect length as the stock length, the allen heads so you can still get the wheel on.
Drilled all the holes to 3/8, then to 25/64th, which was the size the tap called for.
Tapped to 7/16 -20, Hubs needed to be drilled to 29/64th to clear the 7/16 stud. It takes up just about all of the taper, really fits the larger bolts well
On and torqued to 70lbs. Absolute thrilled to have gotten rid of the cone washer here.
I ran into a little problem here as I could not drill through the TG chromo drive flange. Even bought a "hard metal" bit from the local hardware store and didnt touch it. So I went back to locking hubs with chromo gears for now. I did have to drill the back of the hub out too to match the extra dowel pins from the drive flange.
The 3.4 may have a cracked head or start of a HG going. Lots of wheeling coming up this winter so well see how long it lasts.
#706
Registered User
Thread Starter
Headed down to Mass for the annual Northeast Toyota Crawlers Club meeting this past weekend. Meeting was great, we have a good schedule for this year and a good group of wheelers. They didnt have much snow but I left the chains on anyway but apparently they hooked a hopped a little to hard.
Took out the rear output on the t case, a u joint and bent a rear leaf spring... oof. But I was able to drive out still in front wheel drive.
Got it a part Sunday
I had to cut off that spiral gear and the bearing. The shaft was broken and not connected to the 4wd gear, but WOULD NOT come out and that black spiral gear would not move.
Took out the rear output on the t case, a u joint and bent a rear leaf spring... oof. But I was able to drive out still in front wheel drive.
Got it a part Sunday
I had to cut off that spiral gear and the bearing. The shaft was broken and not connected to the 4wd gear, but WOULD NOT come out and that black spiral gear would not move.
#707
Registered User
Thread Starter
Put it back together as much as I could last night, just used another stock output because I had one on the shelf. I need to crack open a parts case for that spiral gear and bearing, then I can put the rest of it together.
Looking at where it broke, it appears to have broken right on the last oil port.
Looking at where it broke, it appears to have broken right on the last oil port.
#708
Contributing Member
I've been looking at cheap rock lights, thanks for the pic.
And cone washers....bah! I'm not friends with mine either.
And cone washers....bah! I'm not friends with mine either.
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