Locked_SR5 1987 4Runner Build-Up Thread
#61
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Thread Starter
When you do this conversion, you'll need to grind/enlarge the center hub so it will be able to sit flush with the backside of the rear axle shaft.
The spacers I'm referring to are the standard 1/4 wheel spacers. You'll need these because you're going to need to use straight axle wheel studs.
The SA rotor is on the backside of rear axle along with wheel spacer:
#64
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Thread Starter
Quick Update:
Was in LA the past week and did not get much done on the 4Runner. I was able to purchase new brake pads on all 4 corners and was able to get the brake lines bled... So as of now I have working brakes, but no parking brake... So I think my next project is going to be to install the crawl box and install parking brake.. or at least mock it up. Then work on getting a rear driveline...
Was in LA the past week and did not get much done on the 4Runner. I was able to purchase new brake pads on all 4 corners and was able to get the brake lines bled... So as of now I have working brakes, but no parking brake... So I think my next project is going to be to install the crawl box and install parking brake.. or at least mock it up. Then work on getting a rear driveline...
#66
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Thanks for the help I've been doing a lot of research and I think I found a way to use all new parts that are relatively cheap and a "free" "emergency" brake
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...ght=disc+brake
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...ght=free+brake
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...ght=disc+brake
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...ght=free+brake
#68
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Quick Update:
Was in LA the past week and did not get much done on the 4Runner. I was able to purchase new brake pads on all 4 corners and was able to get the brake lines bled... So as of now I have working brakes, but no parking brake... So I think my next project is going to be to install the crawl box and install parking brake.. or at least mock it up. Then work on getting a rear driveline...
Was in LA the past week and did not get much done on the 4Runner. I was able to purchase new brake pads on all 4 corners and was able to get the brake lines bled... So as of now I have working brakes, but no parking brake... So I think my next project is going to be to install the crawl box and install parking brake.. or at least mock it up. Then work on getting a rear driveline...
#69
Registered User
Thread Starter
I just received a PM regarding my rear disc brake brackets I found on Ebay. So here is the link to the ebay store
http://www.ebay.com/itm/TOYOTA-REAR-...2#ht_535wt_907
You can also Google them
The company is called J&M Custom Metal Fab
Here is a link to their site..
http://www.jmmetalfab.com/Automotive_Products.php
Also, as of now, the build is kind of stagnant because of lack of daylight and daylight savings time is just around the corner so I'll even have less time... I still need to install my Dual cases and fabricate my parking brake. Not sure when I'll have the time for it, as I need to rediscover my motivation to get this done...
Hope this info is of help to people.. Best of luck!!!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/TOYOTA-REAR-...2#ht_535wt_907
You can also Google them
The company is called J&M Custom Metal Fab
Here is a link to their site..
http://www.jmmetalfab.com/Automotive_Products.php
Also, as of now, the build is kind of stagnant because of lack of daylight and daylight savings time is just around the corner so I'll even have less time... I still need to install my Dual cases and fabricate my parking brake. Not sure when I'll have the time for it, as I need to rediscover my motivation to get this done...
Hope this info is of help to people.. Best of luck!!!
#70
Registered User
Thread Starter
Also, ever since purchasing the 4Runner, I've been researching the 3.4 swap and all the things I need to do to get it BAR'd to be California SMOG legal.
So far, I have the 3.4 engine harness labeled, I have my 22re body harness labeled and know where all the wires go (read the 3.4 swap threads countless times). I've also made an Excel spreadsheet that will allow me to make the adapter to fit my 4Runner to the 3.4 engine. All I need is a couple of plugs, so I can make my harness adapter.. SO if you have any, PLEASE, PLEASE let me know.. The two plugs that are imperative to me building the harness is the IK2 body harness plug and the E5 plug that goes to the ECU. Without those plugs I cannot complete the swap.. Once I get those, I'll be able to share everything I have done for the swap. The adapter I plan on making will look like the harness adapter that DNTSDAD made for his (if anyone knows him on a personal level let him know, as I'm looking to source those plugs). Thanks
So far, I have the 3.4 engine harness labeled, I have my 22re body harness labeled and know where all the wires go (read the 3.4 swap threads countless times). I've also made an Excel spreadsheet that will allow me to make the adapter to fit my 4Runner to the 3.4 engine. All I need is a couple of plugs, so I can make my harness adapter.. SO if you have any, PLEASE, PLEASE let me know.. The two plugs that are imperative to me building the harness is the IK2 body harness plug and the E5 plug that goes to the ECU. Without those plugs I cannot complete the swap.. Once I get those, I'll be able to share everything I have done for the swap. The adapter I plan on making will look like the harness adapter that DNTSDAD made for his (if anyone knows him on a personal level let him know, as I'm looking to source those plugs). Thanks
#71
Registered User
Thread Starter
The guy I bought the harness from said the 3.4 harness is from a 99 Tacoma 3.4 5 spd MT.
Is there a way I can confirm this? The numbers on the harness (on a blue label) are: 82121-3D500C61
The numbers I have for the ECU are: 89661-04412 and 1752002830S
Thanks in advance..
Kyle
Is there a way I can confirm this? The numbers on the harness (on a blue label) are: 82121-3D500C61
The numbers I have for the ECU are: 89661-04412 and 1752002830S
Thanks in advance..
Kyle
#74
Registered User
Thread Starter
I picked up the 3.4, the harness and the ECu off of the SF Craigslist back in April 2010.. Motor has 119K. still need to go through and change the timing belt and water pump.. plan on installing motor after august 2012..
#75
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Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: (LSD) Lower Slower Delaware
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you guys from the west coast have it made with all the yota parts. Here on the east most of the older yota are bring shipped to South America. They buy completed vehicles cut them up and ship the parts south.
But every cool build, i love your work............
But every cool build, i love your work............
#76
Registered User
Thread Starter
Just to let you guys know. I have been working on the truck, although they are small, numerous tasks that needed to be done.
Brakes:
When I swapped to the 1-inch master cylinder and brake booster, the brake like switch was not able to be closed and the brake lights would stay on constantly and kill the battery. Additionally, the swapped parts had non-compatible plugs. I fixed that too.
On
The white plug is what I needed to adjust (just unplug, loosen nut, adjust switch, and re-tighten nut)
Off and no more dead battery
The plugs I swapped
SR5 Cluster:
When I initially bought the runner, the PO said the temp gauge was broken and when the truck overheated he didn't know. This was a real concern not having a working gauge so swapped the oil pressure gauge and temp gauge from another SR5 cluster. Also, when taking apart the cluster a found out how to adjust the tachometer without soldering in a resistor when doing the 3.4 swap. All you would need is a timing gun to know the rpm and adjust the white dial.
Swapping the temp gauge
Working gauge
The part where you adjust the tachometer
Leaking anti-freeze from blown head gasket
Additionally, when testing the new temp gauge and after knowing it works, I now know where the head gasket is blown on the 22RE (driver side, at the #4 cylinder). The runner runs pretty good with the occasional miss and oil is not emulsified. I have a couple of videos regarding questions I have and wanna show you guys to get your opinions.
I'm trying to post the video here
Video of engine running. Does it sound right?
Video of the exhaust. Can you guys hear the miss?
I'm not sure how accurate this would be, but I was told that if you hold a piece of paper against the exhaust, it should always blow out (never create a vacuum). In my next video, I'm holding paper currency next to exhaust and it blows out for awhile, but then it get sucked into the tailpipe. My question is what causes that? a miss, bad valves, do I need a new head, etc..
Brakes:
When I swapped to the 1-inch master cylinder and brake booster, the brake like switch was not able to be closed and the brake lights would stay on constantly and kill the battery. Additionally, the swapped parts had non-compatible plugs. I fixed that too.
On
The white plug is what I needed to adjust (just unplug, loosen nut, adjust switch, and re-tighten nut)
Off and no more dead battery
The plugs I swapped
SR5 Cluster:
When I initially bought the runner, the PO said the temp gauge was broken and when the truck overheated he didn't know. This was a real concern not having a working gauge so swapped the oil pressure gauge and temp gauge from another SR5 cluster. Also, when taking apart the cluster a found out how to adjust the tachometer without soldering in a resistor when doing the 3.4 swap. All you would need is a timing gun to know the rpm and adjust the white dial.
Swapping the temp gauge
Working gauge
The part where you adjust the tachometer
Leaking anti-freeze from blown head gasket
Additionally, when testing the new temp gauge and after knowing it works, I now know where the head gasket is blown on the 22RE (driver side, at the #4 cylinder). The runner runs pretty good with the occasional miss and oil is not emulsified. I have a couple of videos regarding questions I have and wanna show you guys to get your opinions.
I'm trying to post the video here
Video of engine running. Does it sound right?
Video of the exhaust. Can you guys hear the miss?
I'm not sure how accurate this would be, but I was told that if you hold a piece of paper against the exhaust, it should always blow out (never create a vacuum). In my next video, I'm holding paper currency next to exhaust and it blows out for awhile, but then it get sucked into the tailpipe. My question is what causes that? a miss, bad valves, do I need a new head, etc..