Locked_SR5

Came home today from a round of gold and found out I received a box from Marlin Crawler which had my transfer case gaskets



So I started working on the Dual Ultimate Cases today. Got my Crawl box put together today. I'm going to run my 21 spline input shaft so I can mate it to my W56. Once I do my 3.4 Swap, I'll put the 23 spline in so I can mate it to the R150 tranny.



Tomorrow I'm going to hang my rock sliders and play catch up with the previous parts of the build.

Locked_SR5

Well I didn't hang the rock sliders like I wanted to today, but I did get something accomplished.

I finished my Dual Ultimate Transfer cases today. Not sure when I'll be able to put it in the truck though.



When I get the chance, I'll show my SAS and rear spring swap, but in the mean time I'll explain my approach to new parking brake. Since I'm running 63" Chevy's and rear disc brakes, I lost the factory parking brake. A while back, I was able to score a FROR transfer case mount with all hardware for 80.00. I couldn't justify spending 439.00 for All Pros Skid plate/parking brake combo and decided to make my own using their transfer brake rotor and a Willwood spot caliper (not completed yet, but you get the idea)

lazlow

very nice! jealous of the e lockers front and rear. have you figured out the front driveshaft yet?

Locked_SR5

I haven't started to think about the drive shafts yet. I want to get the duals installed so I can have a better angle to the Third member in the front axle. If anyone could help, I need to find the correct amount of slip needed and what is the correct way to measure for custom drivel ines,

Locked_SR5

I found some time to do some more updates. As mentioned before, I've been gathering parts for my build, searching CL daily, and going to Inchworm do place orders for various parts needed. The same day I picked up my thirds, I ordered the Trail Gear 3" eliminator kit. I went with this amount of lift because I knew I needed an BL for the 3.4 swap and didn't want to run any tires bigger than 35's. Jim at Inchworm is also building a first generation 4runner using TG 3" springs front and rear. He was also running 35, but did some fender trimming that looks really clean.

Anyways, while searching CL came across an ARB bumper for 200.... the problem was the bumper was for a Jeep Grand Cherokee. I figured I could make the bumper work. Came home and did a test fit and it looked good to me



When looking at the bumper to see how I could make a bracket, I noticed the front spring hanger was the same width.




That got me thinking and taking into account the body lift, I came up with a bracket that looked like this.



When mounted, the bumper looks like it belongs there.



also notice that I have black rubber bump stops on the bumper. Those came from a stock front TJ bumper that someone was throwing away at the dumps. I think makes the bumper look better because of the black. I plan on paint the bumper the same color as the truck, so the bump stops will be more noticeable. Also, I ordered the ARB surrounds for the fog lights recessed in the bumper from Central 4Wheel Drive (40.00 each). Ordered the surrounds for a FJ Cruiser and plan on cutting a whole in the bumpers to install them.

Locked_SR5

Also forgot to mention that I needed to do some additional fabrication to the bumper.

Notice the gap?



Made some metal Tabs



And welded in place (i think I did a good job for my first time welding).

Locked_SR5

With the front axle built and ready to go, it is SAS time. I'm going to let the pictures speak for themselves, but if you have any questions feel free to ask.











The rear as the 3.5 inch rear lift blocks and you can see how much taller a TG 3" lift is.



When installing the SAS, I following TGs instructions step by step
i.e., spring hanger flush with frame.



Upper shackle tube in middle of body mount.



And I get a sprig shackle angle like this (instructions say they should be 15* and will get better once the spring settles). I was believing them!!!



Man, was I pissed. I thought I really screwed up my SAS. After doing some research, I learned that the 3" springs are 2 inches shorter than the 4 and 5 inch springs (42" vs 44" i think?). During that research and trying to find an alternative, I learned that the RUFs are the same lengths as the 4" and 5" springs. The problem was that the centerpin is an extra 1.5" forward (but had to do it). I made a spring using both packs. What I did was just use the top two leafs from the RUFs and replaced the top two leafs of TG. Has anyone done this? Is this safe? Once I switched it over, I ended with a shackle angle like this.. I was pleased. Just wished TG instructions mentioned that the 3 springs were shorter.



I didn't add the shock hoops until I rented a welder. Did those not too long ago.

87 Deathtrap

That truck is looking great! You should be fine with that leaf combo as long as you are happy with the ride/flex. It looks stable enough, not sure about about that 4x4 running across the two jackstands supporting the crossmember though.

Locked_SR5

Ha! i know... it was more for stability than support. I've heard stories about cars falling on people and I didn't want to go out like that.. The front jacks held all the weight..

87 Deathtrap

Just had to give you a hard time about it man, I'm sure I've done worse.

Ok, back to quietly taking notes.

Locked_SR5

When I went the TG/RUF hybrid route, it moved the front axle forward 2.5" and interfered with the pitman arm and tierod.



moved the steering box forward





and extended the steering shaft.

Locked_SR5

With bigger tires, I knew I wanted to upgrade the brake system.

I did the following: upgraded to V6 front calipers, rear disc conversion, remove load positioning valve, installed porportioning and residual vavle, upgraded brake booster and master brake cylinder, and installed braided steel line.





Stock brake booster

Double diaphram booster with 1" master cylinder



Rear Disc

The best and cheapest way I found for the rear disc swap was using the solid axle front calipers on the rear using brackets I found listed on ebay for 30.00 (the holes were water jetted, so I suggest reaming the holes). Calipers are leftovers from the SAS.

Pre rotor



Pre bracket and caliper




With bracket and caliper





Finished product (I was able to use the factory rear brake hardline and hardware for this swap).





Still working on the ebrake and I already mentioned spot caliper and transfer case parking brake.

lazlow

i used this method from pirate when i made my square driveshaft and it worked out good. should be the same idea if you use a round driveshaft. 'use a Tape Measure and you measure the distance between the T-case flange and the diff flange while it is sitting level on all four wheels. Subtract the length of the CV and the U-Joint. give it about 3-4 inches of compression and 10-12 inches of slip'

Locked_SR5

Thanks for the info on the front drive shaft. Does anyone have an recommendation for a shop in the Sacramento area for a rear drive shaft?

Locked_SR5

I was able to get a little bit more done the last few days..

I was able to pic up a set of TG rocksliders (new in box) and gusset supports for 100.00 CL about 2 months ago and was finally able to put them on. Here are some pics.

Tacked them in to place



Door clearance


Ready to be welded


Showing my rookie welding skills


Painted and welded into place



In the future, I plan on adding removable wheel well tubing, using TG interlocking tube clamps. I also plan on painting all bumpers/tubing same color as the truck..

Locked_SR5

Wanted to give a quick update:

For those familiar with the FJ Cruiser ARB bumpers. They have molded inserts that are placed in the bumper for the turn signals and 4 inch fog lights. I liked them so much, I was on a quest to have them fabricated into my "custom" ARB bumper. There isn't a lot information on the internet regarding these. I placed an inquiry to Central 4Wheel Drive in Sacramento and said they would be able to order them.

I guess there are two types of surrounds. One for the IPF lights and one for the ARB lights. I ordered the ones for the IPF lights.

Here are the part #

AR 3162467L
AR 3162467R



Here they are


For those of you that want to do the same thing as me; here are the deminsions of the surround.





I made a cardboard template and transfered to ARB bumper. Used a cutting wheel for the straight edges and a cutting torch for the curves.



Here's what it looks like with it installed. It will really look good once I paint the bumper the same color as the truck (the surrounds and bumper guards will really stand out from the red).

Locked_SR5

I didn't post any pictures yet, but I'm currently in the process of wiring my front and rear e-lockers. Is 18 GA wire thick enough to carry the current to the e-locker computer? I'm using the factory computer for both E-lockers. Once I get everything put together, I will post pics. I just need the female plugs from the e-locker harness to the body harness, then I can solder everything together.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Locked, ....I'm not kidding, this is one of the best SAS/Restore build threads I've read on here! GREAT WORK, man! And seriously?>>>> LOVE seeing your pops hard at work on it.... and HIS TRUCK, OMGOSH!!!!! lol.

Great thread, great detail, and after only 2 pages???? WOW! lol. Next time I'm in Auburn/North American Fork,....I'll let you know, ...YOU GOTTA LET ME GET A 'CRAWL' IN THAT THING! lol.

SCRIBED/SICK!

Locked_SR5

I was able to take some pictures today of what I'm planning on doing for the e-locker wiring.

After reading some of the wiring write ups regarding E-lockers, I was able to source some 18 GA 10 strand wire from Home Depot (hopefully this is thick enough to carry the load). I tried running the wire as clean as possible, using factory grommets when entering the body of the truck.

Front

Rear


I'm using the factory e-locker computers and mounting them in passenger side quarter panel.

The switches I plan on using to enganged the lockers is the rear window lock switch on 4runners (does anyone know if these will work? I'm assuming they would). I also plan on using LED lights letting me know when they are or are not enganged and making a custom bracket for the switches.

When looking at other rigs wring for e-lockers, they're typically just laying around and that is something I didn't like so I made some wiring support brackets for the front and rear.

Front

Rear


I'm also taking into consideration for the drop in the thirds and have the wiring harness coiled to allow for the drop.

Front

Rear


I will post more pictures once I get everything wired up.

Locked_SR5

Hopefully by the end of this weekend I'll have the wiring harnesses that I made for the front and rear e-lockers installed. I still have to solder the wires I previously ran to the factory e-locker harnesses off of the thirds.

Anyways, here are a few pictures of the harness I made that run from the factory e-locker computers to the locker push buttons that will be located under the stock radio.

Started soldering


Used heat shrink on all soldering points


Harness getting close


e-locker buttons LED lights wired in (have a new tab that I'm going to redrill to center them.. Anal like that)


all taped up


ready for install



Additionally, when running the power supply to the harnesses, I need to connect to a 15A fuse and a 20 amp fuse. My question. Is it better just to run two wires to the fuse block on the drivers side or would I be able to splice into either a 15A and 20A line located near the center console?