Head's 86 4Runner "restoration"
#62
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Runner
Runner looks great. I have an '86 that is very similar in appearance. Subscribed! keep the info coming. I changed all my interior to grey, but your decision to remain blue looks GREAT!
Last edited by Erik Hinch; 02-19-2012 at 03:18 PM.
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Seats are looking great and you are getting alot done. To burp my system, I use a tall floor jack or a good steep hill to get the front end as high as possible and remove the Theromstat and let it cycle a few times. Other then that I dont have any good info. It can be a little difficult finding the small problems with these. I would rather do a rebuild then chase down something what our going thru. Wishing you the best of luck.
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Got the rear seat backs in. They bolted right up to the floor (except one bolt on each outer hinge). I still need to swap my latches over and bolt the seat belts back in. I really wish jbm715 would get back to me on the fabric for my drivers seat. That's all I need to complete my interior, aside from the dash vents.
I'll try to post pictures tonight.
The idle issue is odd. I put about 200 miles on it Sunday. Half the trip it did the weird idle, the second half it hardly did it at all. I popped the cap on the radiator last night and it looks like it worked more air out. I will try to drive it today and see if there is any change. I didn't notice any vacuum leaks, but I'll look again.
I'll try to post pictures tonight.
The idle issue is odd. I put about 200 miles on it Sunday. Half the trip it did the weird idle, the second half it hardly did it at all. I popped the cap on the radiator last night and it looks like it worked more air out. I will try to drive it today and see if there is any change. I didn't notice any vacuum leaks, but I'll look again.
Last edited by Head; 02-21-2012 at 04:32 AM.
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Got the new CAT and muffler yesterday. Going to try to weld the flange to the CAT and make an appointment at the muffler shop. I got the driver side seat frame modified and ready to go in. I ended up just drilling the rivets off the mounting legs and rewelding them back on. Since I am 6'4" I moved the seat back a couple inches before welding them back on. Hopefully it will be a bit more comfortable.
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Here are the pictures of my seats installed.
Tried to install the header I bought today and I found something interesting. The descriptions for the pacesetter headers on Summit's website are wrong. The header I bought for my 84 pickup didn't fit for crap, and the header I bought for the 4runner doesn't have an O2 sensor bung.
So for future reference, if you are buying a pacesetter header from Summit use the following part numbers.
22R = PSM-70-1188
22RE = PSM-70-1187
Tried to install the header I bought today and I found something interesting. The descriptions for the pacesetter headers on Summit's website are wrong. The header I bought for my 84 pickup didn't fit for crap, and the header I bought for the 4runner doesn't have an O2 sensor bung.
So for future reference, if you are buying a pacesetter header from Summit use the following part numbers.
22R = PSM-70-1188
22RE = PSM-70-1187
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Originally Posted by Head
So for future reference, if you are buying a pacesetter header from Summit use the following part numbers.
22R = PSM-70-1188
22RE = PSM-70-1187
22R = PSM-70-1188
22RE = PSM-70-1187
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Awesome day today. Went out for a drive and decided to swing by the pull-a-part. They had a 4runner with a blue interior. Ended up finding the seat I needed. I didn't even have to unbolt it.
Last edited by Head; 02-26-2012 at 10:33 AM.
#74
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You've probably figured this out by now, but i was reading your build thread and think i know what you idling problem is. If the engine senses that the throttle is closed (via the tps) and the engine is turning faster than 1000rpm, it will cut the fuel until it gets below 1000. It's the fuel cut circuit, it's that way so you're not burning a bunch of fuel when engine braking. It only does it after the coolant temp sensor tells the ecu that the motor is warm, that's why you can have a fast cold idle. Try just adjusting your idle lower, about 750rpm warm. Mine did the exact same thing until i did that. Idles like a dream now!
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You've probably figured this out by now, but i was reading your build thread and think i know what you idling problem is. If the engine senses that the throttle is closed (via the tps) and the engine is turning faster than 1000rpm, it will cut the fuel until it gets below 1000. It's the fuel cut circuit, it's that way so you're not burning a bunch of fuel when engine braking. It only does it after the coolant temp sensor tells the ecu that the motor is warm, that's why you can have a fast cold idle. Try just adjusting your idle lower, about 750rpm warm. Mine did the exact same thing until i did that. Idles like a dream now!
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Well, it's been a while since I posted progress. Was coming along nicely. Decided to take it to the cabin for Memorial Day. About an hour into the trip motor lost all power and started knocking. So the short story... 400 miles on the new motor and it ate 3 rod bearings. Machine shop says those three rods and the crank need replaced. No idea what caused it. Had good oil pressure and it did not over heat.
So now I am stuck. I already have $800 in the motor, now I need a new crank and rods. So as far as I can tell that will run me about $300-$400. So do I keep looking for a used crank and rods which will hopefully be under $100? Spend $300-$400 on new parts? Or say F* it, throw away that $800 I just spent on the motor, and spend another $1600 for a long block from Autozone?
So now I am stuck. I already have $800 in the motor, now I need a new crank and rods. So as far as I can tell that will run me about $300-$400. So do I keep looking for a used crank and rods which will hopefully be under $100? Spend $300-$400 on new parts? Or say F* it, throw away that $800 I just spent on the motor, and spend another $1600 for a long block from Autozone?
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Wow, that sucks, I am replacing my 22R with a 4.3 V6 in my 87 pickup. Sorry to hear about that after the rebuild. My 22R was in a barn for 12 years, I think rust got on the crank and lower bearing went after about 800 miles after head gasket was replaced.
Keep looking something my turn up..Bill
Keep looking something my turn up..Bill
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I wanted to do a v6 swap, but at the time I thought it was going to be cheaper to rebuild the 22re. If I knew I was going to have these issues and have this much oney into it, I would have done the 7MGE swap I wanted to do.
On a positive note. One of my OHTTORA budies has a motor laying in his garage he is going to give me. As far as he knows it runs, so it hopefully has a good crank.
On a positive note. One of my OHTTORA budies has a motor laying in his garage he is going to give me. As far as he knows it runs, so it hopefully has a good crank.
Last edited by Head; 06-28-2012 at 04:14 AM.