Ceveland

I found a couple things out today, but first, maiden voyage video!!!

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v...type=2&theater

First off before I get into the issues, mad props to the guy standing in front of the truck at the start of the video. He helped me so much! He's more or less a wiring guru.

So, right when I tried to get her to move, I tried to put it in first gear and it won't go in while it's running. The only gears that "work" are 4th and reverse. Any idea what would cause that? The gears are hard to engage when the truck is off but they still work.

Another thing is that there are two massive oil leaks. One is coming from the oil pan at the back of it near the passenger side of the bell housing. The other is coming from the oil filter re-locator.

I also need to clean up the rats nest of a redneck rigged wiring harness that we made just to make the battery charge and the fuel pump run reliably.

That small radiator that I have in it won't keep it cool unless it's moving, so I need to get a bigger one which means I will probably have to cut and rebuild the core support (ugh!!!)

Anyways, I think that's about it for now. Serious progress though! Thanks for looking.

-Tim

rustED

iTrader: (2)

I tried your video link and couldn't get it to work...

On your clutch how does the pedal fill? Did you try bleeding the clutch lines again? I know on mine I had to bleed the crap out of it to get the clutch to properly engage

rustED

iTrader: (2)

Also you might try adjusting the push rod on the slave cylinder, it might not be pushing the clutch fork in enough. Hope you get it figured out....-Ed

Ceveland

It's a video linked to facebook. You may need to be friends with me to view it.. I'll see if I can upload it to youtube and get another link for you.

I tried bleeding it a couple of times and it still felt spongy so I think I'll try bleeding it again. I'll try adjusting the slave cylinder arm as well. I can see the slave cylinder moving the arm to engage the clutch, but it may not be moving far enough. I'm also gonna double check the fluid level inside the transmission before trying to run it again. I haven't checked it since I filled the transmission at the beginning of this year and I'm not sure if anything has leaked out. I don't see any fluid under the truck but I will make sure.

Thanks for the input!

-Tim

rustED

iTrader: (2)

Have you made any more progress on the truck?

Ceveland

Sorry about not updating for a while. The truck hasn't really been priority right now and I went on vacation for a while.

I made some progress though. I fixed the shifting issue so now it goes into gear reliably. It was just the clutch linkage that needed adjustment (really easy fix). The leak coming from the back of the pan is due to a failed gasket (I'm pretty sure) so I'll have to replace it. Other than that not much progress to report.

I'm gonna take her down to the gas station on the corner to get fuel. I'll be able to open her up a little. I should have a video for you guys (since the other one doesn't work) tomorrow or Monday.

Again sorry for no updates... Thanks for looking!

-Tim

rustED

iTrader: (2)

Glad you got the slave cylinder linkage figured out and working. Look forward to seeing your video!

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Congratulations on your maiden voyage. I always liked the small block Fords and are some great engines. Wish I had the ability to stick one in my trucks.

Alan Bledsoe

it some one else might clarify this seems to me ihave heard that an oil pan from a 302 van will work some one else might clarify this. I have a red 1986 4x4 reg. cab pickup that I want to put a 302 from an ltd into. so I will. be following your progress.good luck and have a good build.

Ceveland

Hey all.

I ended up not taking the truck out on Sunday. Cops have been everywhere around my area lately and it isn't tagged nor does it have exhaust... I can't afford a ticket for those things, so I need to get a few parts for it before I can take it out and get a video.

Here's a link to a little teaser video (from my cellphone so sorry for garbage quality):
I did a quick search on this site for what I need to read engine temperature. Does anyone know of what I need to buy to get the gauge on the dash to read correct temperature? (Possibly a link to a thread I missed). I have time this afternoon to get it done, so a quick response would be much appreciated!

I haven't decided on what I want to do as far as exhaust goes. I think I want it to be more on the quiet side, so the truck is more of a sleeper. I also have no welding skills, but I do have a friend that can weld so I may recruit his help. What exhaust should I go with to get the best bang for my buck? I was thinking Flowmaster 60 series, but that has really bad highway drone (my buddy had one on his GMC). I'm kind of rambling a bit here, but should I contact the guy who built the motor and ask about exhaust compression (would that matter)?

I'm going to place an order for some parts today as well. It's time to get this show on the road (literally!)

Thanks as always guys!

Tim

rustED

iTrader: (2)

Nice video, its cool to seeing it finally moving under it's own power! I bet your happy to get to this point, just got a little more to finish it up! For your temp gauge, I honesty can't remember how the factory one was hooked up, Im assuming there was some kind of sender unit that threaded in to the intake somewhere. I'm running aftermarket water temp, oil pressure, and volts gauges. The water temp broke, so I bought all new Glow shift gauges, just need to get some brass NPT fittings to adapt it over to the 302.

I'm running some old Flowmasters that came on my parts truck, they pretty worn out, need to go to a muffler shop and just have them run all new exhaust from the mufflers out the back.
How are you going to have your exhaust routed? The gas tank makes it kinda hard to do a standard dual exhaust, my passenger side exhaust is bent to go around the gas tank and then runs parallel with the drivers side pipe and will eventually exit out the back behind the driver side tire.

Ceveland

Not too much more! I guess I'll just have to figure out how to do it. I have a truck that I can look at out in the yard. I'm trying to keep things as stock and as simple as possible, so I'm gonna try not to use any aftermarket gauges.

I may run exhaust collectors that come straight off the headers until I get a plan together for actual exhaust. I'm most likely going to run true dual exhaust out the back behind each tire through Flowmasters.

Thanks for the input!

Tim

Ceveland

Quick question - what is normal operating temperature for a Ford 302? How does it compare to the operating temperature of a 22R? I'm assuming the V8 produces more heat, but I'm not sure. I've seen a few different things. I want to see what kind if temperatures you guys are seeing. If it's too much different, I'll have to go to an aftermarket gauge.

Thanks!

Ceveland

Hi all

I made a little progress on the truck:

I was able to find "cheap" tail lights for the rig. They were still $80 a piece, but that's not bad compared to the $120 that the local auto parts store wanted. I have them installed now and they look awesome! I'll have a picture to post once I pull the truck out of the garage.

I did a little bit of research online about coolant temp and oil pressure gauges. I found out about mechanical gauges and how they work. I had no idea mechanical gauges even existed... Oh well, what are you gonna do? I plan to make a trip down to the auto parts store after work today to see if I can find what I need. I'll take some pictures about the install to post since I can't find anything on here...

I've also decided to install a push button start on the truck. I don't have the electrical know how to get the key start to work. Should be a quick and easy install.

More updates to come! Thanks for looking.

rustED

iTrader: (2)

Cool, look forward to seeing your pics! I just got done putting in a new oil pressure, water temp, and volts gauges on mine. I went with Glow Shift gauges. They ran about $50 for each gauges, but the wiring was pretty straight forward, came with good instructions. You have 7 different colors to choose from to have the gauges light up, kinda hard to tell from the pic. I just bought their universal mounting pod for $10, but thy also make a A-pillar trim with the pods built into it. Eventually I'm going to get a matching Tachometer.

Ceveland

That looks awesome! I like the transfer case sticker on your glove box. Where'd you get that? Also, are you running A/C?

rustED

iTrader: (2)

Thanks Tim. I'm pretty happy with the gauges, its nice to be able to keep tabs on what's going on instead of hoping the idiot lights work, lol.

The transfer case sticker is original, not sure if it's something you can buy replacements for or not. It seems like someone could do a reproduction of them.



My 4runner didn't come with AC, I don't really have any plans to add it, I have wing windows, and can take the top off it if it gets too hot.

85FB-Yota

Where did you get your Motor Mounts? I am doing a 302 swap in an 85' yota and looking for some pointers.

Thanks

rustED

iTrader: (2)

Welcome to Yotatech. I believe Cleveland purchased his motor mounts from NWOR (North West OffRoad).

http://northwestoffroad.com/parts/motormounts.php

They are a good product, but on the spendy side. Or if you have some fabrication skills you could buy some bushings from ballistic fab or some other vender, copy theirs, and build your own for alot less. Good luck with your build!

https://www.ballisticfabrication.com...axx=175&maxy=0

Ceveland

They are pricey, but you can't beat a bolt on part with that kind of adjustability.