Dub Tek's 1991 Regular Cab > Build Thread
#61
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I See this rear window latch in my future
I tried a JB welded version of my broken original.. didnt work
Im also shopping the idler arm bushings
My trucks build date is 11-90
The split in part # is in 1991
Ill have the dealer figure it out when I order
Part Numbers
90386-19005 newer trucks
90385-18068 older trucks
I tried a JB welded version of my broken original.. didnt work
Im also shopping the idler arm bushings
My trucks build date is 11-90
The split in part # is in 1991
Ill have the dealer figure it out when I order
Part Numbers
90386-19005 newer trucks
90385-18068 older trucks
#62
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Soo how much was all that oil and did you order offline? Its realll peerrrrttttyyy lol
I wanna change my tranny and t case and diffs, so far the only gl4 i can find is stalube brand at napa and its 85w90 and im questioning wether it would be okay or if i should order
I wanna change my tranny and t case and diffs, so far the only gl4 i can find is stalube brand at napa and its 85w90 and im questioning wether it would be okay or if i should order
#63
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Summit Racing timing light < picked this up so I could finish the timing chain install
AKA properly adjust my ignition timing to the 5' BTDC thats on my hood sticker
I have the idle set @ about 900 NO LOADS
SO when I hit the heat + lights + such, I still get my optimal 850
AKA properly adjust my ignition timing to the 5' BTDC thats on my hood sticker
I have the idle set @ about 900 NO LOADS
SO when I hit the heat + lights + such, I still get my optimal 850
#64
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Well it wasnt cheep
$140 shipped <<I did NOT shop around
Yes I ordered it all from the site linked below
It will give you the proper fluid + volume for your rigs equipment
AMSOIL technical look up
Im SO glad I changed my fluids
The hypoid oil in the diffs was GROSS
The GL4 in the case + gearbox was nice and clean still
I will say since the 7 mile ride home
My transmission input shaft bearing noise is mush less noticeable
#65
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Woooo thats not even my pocket book and it kinda stung lol
Sooo that cut down on your trans chatter/noises? I have a little bit of that i know my trans, t case and front diff are begging for some new oil.
Sooo that cut down on your trans chatter/noises? I have a little bit of that i know my trans, t case and front diff are begging for some new oil.
#66
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I had loud at idle in neutral input shaft bearing noise
its 80% gone and its only been a few miles of driving home from work
I know $140 in fluid is pricey
BUT its better then buying third members or a transfercase
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Ordered up some materials today
Online metals
Bought some 7/16th steel plates to make a downpipe flange
I plan to FAB fab an exhaust from the outlet of the stock manifold
To the tail pipe
To do this I need a flange to bolt to the stock cast manifold
I cant find it anywhere
SO I STARTED A YOTATECH THREAD < didnt lead anywhere
So im just going to make it alog with the other pipes
Also picked up X3 >> 2.25" J PIPES from summit racing
Along with a bunch of Straight Pipe
AND A FLEX PIPE
Soon enough ALL those links will result in a NEW exhaust from the manifold back
Online metals
Bought some 7/16th steel plates to make a downpipe flange
I plan to FAB fab an exhaust from the outlet of the stock manifold
To the tail pipe
To do this I need a flange to bolt to the stock cast manifold
I cant find it anywhere
SO I STARTED A YOTATECH THREAD < didnt lead anywhere
So im just going to make it alog with the other pipes
Also picked up X3 >> 2.25" J PIPES from summit racing
Along with a bunch of Straight Pipe
AND A FLEX PIPE
Soon enough ALL those links will result in a NEW exhaust from the manifold back
#70
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Got a newer battery to swap in
Was sick of a slower crank when its COLD
Optima Red Top > WIN
I had it in my "race-car" for 2 seasons
Now it will live out the remainder of its functioning life in my yota
Just waiting on the clamps
Was sick of a slower crank when its COLD
Optima Red Top > WIN
I had it in my "race-car" for 2 seasons
Now it will live out the remainder of its functioning life in my yota
Just waiting on the clamps
Last edited by dub tek; 12-25-2011 at 04:01 AM.
#71
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D.O.M. TUBE BUMPER MATERIALS ORDERED > Pick that stuff up next year.. Jan 5th
plus i have enough steel scraps and a tig welder
Ill be making a drop hitch at the same time for the front + rear bumpers
Eastern Marine < has a ton of trailer parts in stock and they ship quick
plus i have enough steel scraps and a tig welder
Ill be making a drop hitch at the same time for the front + rear bumpers
Eastern Marine < has a ton of trailer parts in stock and they ship quick
Last edited by dub tek; 12-25-2011 at 04:24 AM.
#72
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After setting up the timing >>(5* BTDC)
With the TE T1E connector jumped
AND the idle speed set @ 850-ish
I have done 385 miles on a single tank
Im hoping with a few little tweaks
I can get 400 per fill up
With the TE T1E connector jumped
AND the idle speed set @ 850-ish
I have done 385 miles on a single tank
Im hoping with a few little tweaks
I can get 400 per fill up
#75
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Yea I had a vortex thread for the first build (05)
I have a new thread going over there.. > ALL WHEEL DRIVE Rabbit Build
Im waiting on the chassis to come back from sand blasting
Then its ON!!!!
It allows you me to "remove" the battery from the trucks electrical circuits
when it sits for an extended length of time....
Its overkill
But for the extra $2
Ill take the advantages
#76
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Well
NOT good news > engine surges @ idle when warming up
Once its at FULL operating temp its ALL good....
Sticks an 850 Idle with electric loads ON+Off!!!
Just a tap of the throttle OR bounce the revlimiter it ALL seams legit
except for the surging in the warm up
I have been reading LOTS of threads
I have seen LOTS of people just throwing parts at this
I have been running down what others have done and have NOT
Trying to determine a proper diagnosis path.......
Issue is I have yet to find a verifiable "Fix"
As most of the responses I have found do NOT state if the issue was resolved or not.... SO once I have this figured out for my self
Ill post it in here
PS>> Happy new year everyone!
-Jeff
NOT good news > engine surges @ idle when warming up
Once its at FULL operating temp its ALL good....
Sticks an 850 Idle with electric loads ON+Off!!!
Just a tap of the throttle OR bounce the revlimiter it ALL seams legit
except for the surging in the warm up
I have been reading LOTS of threads
I have seen LOTS of people just throwing parts at this
I have been running down what others have done and have NOT
Trying to determine a proper diagnosis path.......
Issue is I have yet to find a verifiable "Fix"
As most of the responses I have found do NOT state if the issue was resolved or not.... SO once I have this figured out for my self
Ill post it in here
PS>> Happy new year everyone!
-Jeff
#77
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Well
That was an EASY fix............
Normal mountain out of a mole hill style interweb hearsay floating around
Long and the short
I removed the throttle body
Removed the coolant temp adjusted Idle Air Control Valve + cleaned it!
Removed the spring loaded piston inside it and cleaned there too...
Removed the upper intake manifold and cleaned the PCV goo out
Removed the lower intake and cleaned the same goo there too!
Removed the EGR valve and well..... I cleaned out the carbon there also...
Removed the VACUUM control valve thats coolant temp based on the flange that the coolant temp sensors are located in..... I cleaned it with carb clean.. Then I put it in some crazy HOT boiling water followed by a second bath of carb clean.... lots more carbon came out as now the valve is in the FULL OPEN position cause the boiling...
Reassembly is mission critical!!!!
First things First... CLEAN EVERYTHING
Then bolt EVERYTHING in place leaving ALL the adjustable components loose
I adjusted in the following order and now my truck runs NORMAL.. AKA like new
Adjust idle screw ALL the way down..
Then back it out 2.5 revolutions
Then adjust throttle position sensor per FSM.... (I tried cwrallers specs and it didnt like it!)
Now start engine and allow 80'C coolant temp
Now T1E-TE jumper
Then adjust idle with timing light 5'BTDC
Now remove jumper
Then set idle with screw
The Above is what I did
It worked for ME
It is NOT a guide just the order on how I fixed my 22re
^^^ Carbon in the intake
^^^ Coolant temp "Controlled" Vacuum valve
This is what I boiled
That was an EASY fix............
Normal mountain out of a mole hill style interweb hearsay floating around
Long and the short
I removed the throttle body
Removed the coolant temp adjusted Idle Air Control Valve + cleaned it!
Removed the spring loaded piston inside it and cleaned there too...
Removed the upper intake manifold and cleaned the PCV goo out
Removed the lower intake and cleaned the same goo there too!
Removed the EGR valve and well..... I cleaned out the carbon there also...
Removed the VACUUM control valve thats coolant temp based on the flange that the coolant temp sensors are located in..... I cleaned it with carb clean.. Then I put it in some crazy HOT boiling water followed by a second bath of carb clean.... lots more carbon came out as now the valve is in the FULL OPEN position cause the boiling...
Reassembly is mission critical!!!!
First things First... CLEAN EVERYTHING
Then bolt EVERYTHING in place leaving ALL the adjustable components loose
I adjusted in the following order and now my truck runs NORMAL.. AKA like new
Adjust idle screw ALL the way down..
Then back it out 2.5 revolutions
Then adjust throttle position sensor per FSM.... (I tried cwrallers specs and it didnt like it!)
Now start engine and allow 80'C coolant temp
Now T1E-TE jumper
Then adjust idle with timing light 5'BTDC
Now remove jumper
Then set idle with screw
The Above is what I did
It worked for ME
It is NOT a guide just the order on how I fixed my 22re
^^^ Carbon in the intake
^^^ Coolant temp "Controlled" Vacuum valve
This is what I boiled
#78
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We had a MAJOR cold front blow threw last night and the cold start test results are IN!!!!!
From a 52' afternoon when I did the work..
To a 19' AM Cold start
I use my clutch button for starts
NO throttle pedal
Cold High Idle @ 2400
About 3 minuets
Falling to 1600sih for 3 moreish min
Getting down to 1100ish after about 2 minuets of downhill driving
Idling at the stop light I did have the "Foot on the brake surge" for the above 1000 RPM and brake light switch...
Followed by a consistant idle at 900 with lights + heat ON
From a 52' afternoon when I did the work..
To a 19' AM Cold start
I use my clutch button for starts
NO throttle pedal
Cold High Idle @ 2400
About 3 minuets
Falling to 1600sih for 3 moreish min
Getting down to 1100ish after about 2 minuets of downhill driving
Idling at the stop light I did have the "Foot on the brake surge" for the above 1000 RPM and brake light switch...
Followed by a consistant idle at 900 with lights + heat ON
#79
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1-4-12
Well A couple o days into a good cold snap and my fuel pump ˟˟˟˟s the bed........
I checked spark quick buy unplugging a plug wire and letting it hang in the bay while I cranked it... saw sparks so that good!!
From there I checked injector pulse with a noid light
It was all good so I figured ECM and dizzy w/cam position sensor was all good as well!!!
So I unplugged the connector for the fuel pump..
Connection looked good
So I jumped power + ground to it
Had NO GO on the pump
For proper diagnosis grins I checked for power and ground at the pump connector before ordering the pump and it also checked out
My first thought after I had the pump in my hand was
"How Convenient" I just fill the tank yesterday
After pushing the truck inside the garage with my 4 wheeler
And an hour of me b!tch!ng
All is well!!!!
The ONLY seal kit I could get in such short notice was a dorman....
From my experience DORMAN parts blow...
However i did get a Denso Pump kit!!!
-Tek
Well A couple o days into a good cold snap and my fuel pump ˟˟˟˟s the bed........
I checked spark quick buy unplugging a plug wire and letting it hang in the bay while I cranked it... saw sparks so that good!!
From there I checked injector pulse with a noid light
It was all good so I figured ECM and dizzy w/cam position sensor was all good as well!!!
So I unplugged the connector for the fuel pump..
Connection looked good
So I jumped power + ground to it
Had NO GO on the pump
For proper diagnosis grins I checked for power and ground at the pump connector before ordering the pump and it also checked out
My first thought after I had the pump in my hand was
"How Convenient" I just fill the tank yesterday
After pushing the truck inside the garage with my 4 wheeler
And an hour of me b!tch!ng
All is well!!!!
The ONLY seal kit I could get in such short notice was a dorman....
From my experience DORMAN parts blow...
However i did get a Denso Pump kit!!!
-Tek
Last edited by dub tek; 01-04-2012 at 03:52 PM.
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1-18-12
WELL
Since the fuel pump shat (1-4-12) the yota has been ISSUE FREE!!!
Been daily driving it
Good long warm-ups in the AM - AVG. temps 20'f
Still trying for that 400miles in a tank of fuel
Dont think Im going to get there till spring with less warm up and unlocked hubs...
I have been eyeing some parts.
Just cant find softer/lifted torsion bars.
Also been casually shopping tires still too....
WELL
Since the fuel pump shat (1-4-12) the yota has been ISSUE FREE!!!
Been daily driving it
Good long warm-ups in the AM - AVG. temps 20'f
Still trying for that 400miles in a tank of fuel
Dont think Im going to get there till spring with less warm up and unlocked hubs...
I have been eyeing some parts.
Just cant find softer/lifted torsion bars.
Also been casually shopping tires still too....