drifterjones

this is my dd. it runs pretty good but was/is rusting away so something had to be done about it

drifterjones

slacker

iTrader: (1)

lots of red X's ... you'll need to post the pics to a server first .. photobucket ect......

do a quick search on here to see how



.

drifterjones

ok now look at this

drifterjones

this is probably why

that and before i got it had sat for 4 years in the sun in santee plus before that it was registered in Nevada

drifterjones

i searched for solutions. but once i found toyotafiberglass.com i knew that was the best way. but i don't have a credit card so i got 80's ranger fiberglass fenders and taillights for $150 on craigslist instead. its was a lot easier than i had expected and was able to do everything by myself.

drifterjones

the hardest part was removing and installing the tail gate by myself. the fenders are held on by autofab fender mounts.

drifterjones

now i just need to make some new panels. the old ones still work but there beat up and faded.

slacker

iTrader: (1)

I guess .... * where there is a will there is a way !!! *
nice inovation .. not a fan of the lines .. but hey , it's your rig right ? and i'm not drivin' it .. so really it dont matter what I think !!

keep on er'







.

drifterjones

yeah i hate the way it lines up. it might have looked ok if i had got long bed fenders. anyways it just for now until i get the ones i want from toyotafiberglass.com. i spent alittle over $200 to have it like that but most my friends have rangers so i'm i hope to trade the ranger glass for something more useful. until then i plan to make sliders to kick out with the fenders to help justify the way the line up. funny thing is that the cup holder thingy thats in the panels pops out when i go on the freeway. its on there pretty good too so when it pops it comes out with a good amount of force. but i got a 12inch sub and i didn't like the sound coming off the fenders and back into the truck so i got rid of them. now i'm working on sealing the panels so i wont even need the fenders for anything other than to hold up the taillights.

drifterjones

i didn't want to cut the fenders too much so i had to move the gas filler location

drifterjones

i want seal the rear water tight.

drifterjones

#4 i took the sway bar off

drifterjones

the air cleaner extension uses a second air filter that rest next to the clutch master cylinder and the firewall but for street driving i put it back to the stock location.

drifterjones

so the bj spacers are next along with some longer rear springs. i plan to stuff 35's with just that. so I'm probably going to end up making a taller tub in the rear like a hotrod and maybe move the body mount under the firewall back 2inches or something like that.

drifterjones

hello everyone. this is my 1987 4runner. its my first sr5 4runner. my first car was a 1988 4runner dlx. i got it when i was 17(I'm 23 now). it was built at northwest off road specialties, inc. up north in Bellingham, WA.(no lift just beefier bolt on stock replacements)not to long before i bought it for $2500 it had 211xxx miles. all it needed was brakes "and clutch in the near future". i changed the brake pads and took the top off(it rained later that day so i put the top back on a week later and swore I'd never to take it off again). i began beating it hard everywhere but mostly pine valley and ocotillo wells(i visited ether or both weekly for 6 month strait) it was stiff but the only things i broke were the radiator, front bumper mounts and both yokes on the rear drive shaft. i never had to get pulled out of anything. anyways i never change the clutch but it started over heating 3years later. i decided that i would buy a supra and drive that till i was ready to swap. i had a 1986.5 supra for a little over a year then got a DUI in it when the motor died on me. i was pissed so i let the tow yard keep it(worst mistake ever! don't do it). the car was beat, salvage title and had gone through 2 head gaskets in the first 6 months of owning it. i got a 82 toyota corolla sr-5 hatchback so the dlx 4runner just sat for along time until i traded it for a 1950 dodge 1/2 ton. the corolla gave me a bunch off problems big and small plus i was and still am obsessed with it so i decided to get a solid axle pick-up truck to beat on the way to work and the grocery store.(i was living in lake elsinore at the time). i couldn't find one on the weekend i had to buy one so i got this 4runner instead. it was bone stock and rusty but it had 150xxx miles and paperwork for a new clutch, used replacement trany and new clutch master and slave cylinders 5000 mile and 5 years ago so i bought for $2500. soon after buying it i started running into weird problems(compared to the dlx that ran on prayers and was a victim of miracles). i started fixing things already so I'm going back and trying to list everything in the order i did it. yotatech help find me find most the solutions to my weird problems so if your rig is weird like mine you might find some of this build up thread to be useful if not your going to get a good laugh and some more appreciation for your rig. p.s. it has 80's ranger fiberglass in the rear but no pictures till done because it looks like crap the way it is now.

drifterjones

i started losing power two weeks after i bought it. it ran but it was slow and getting slower by the day. so i checked the spark plugs and the look brand new. so i checked the tps and it had water spots on the plug so i got a new for $90 and it made no difference. next i pulled the fuel filter (its bolted to the block and a pain to get to) and this off white mud can out. i got a new i forget how much it was (less than $40 i think). i mounted it to the inner fender well. still no power so i put holes in the catalytic converter and got a new o2 sensor (also less than $40). nothing changed. i had pulled the check engine light codes and got nothing. next i pulled the injectors (its easier than it looks) and found the back two were totally plugged up with the off white mud i had found in the fuel filter. i clean them with throttle body cleaner and a used a small vip-tie to pick out some of the gas mud. i put everything back together and all was good until i went to work the next day and got the worst gas mileage ever! come to find out the injectors started to leaking bad. i learned that you have to be careful putting it back together because all the injectors go in to place at the same time and if one is off by a little is will rip the gasket. once fixed the leak gas mileage was better than ever. after all that i found i had a rust hole right next the ecu so fixing that hole was next on the list. only it made me realize that the stock location was no good with or with out the hole so i started looking for a better location for the ecu. i had found somewhere (i don't remember where) that the ecu can easily be moved to the glove box so i went for it. i needed to pull the slack out of a few wires but it was super easy and everything turned out great and i didn't need to buy anything other than electrical tape and a small nut for one of the bolts.

drifterjones

here are the pictures for the ecu relocation

drifterjones

that rubber thing can be a pain. just try crushing it as tight as you can before you begin pulling on it. next cut the tape around it so it will slide up and down on the wire and tape it where you want it and just pop it back in to place. i cut the bottom of the glove box with a small pocket knife and made the holes where i wanted it to bolt up. i think i had to move or flip one of the original ecu mounts to get it bolt at the top but you don't really need to bolt it up there just the bottom right next to the plugs.

drifterjones

this is two flex pipes (3inch) put together with this air filter with a hole in it. you can find the flex pipe at most auto part stores. its going to come in handy later when i want to rip through rain puddles. i had to cut the air box to fit the flex pipe into it. i made to two cuts with a angle grinder make the hole larger going towards the middle of the box and forced the pipe into a egg shape. then i sealed it with some silicone mud grout stuff the my friend had in the back of truck at the time (hes a tile setter). you should use something more like glue but this stuff has worked really good so far. the surface is hard but flexible.i had to move the coil for the distributor but all i did was slide it over to the master cylinders and used the only original bolt that would still line up and twist it until it would clear the air filter. i use half the pipe flexed into the stock location when i don't need it.