de6w6it

well, I got my seal, and everything went together nicey nice. it drives awesome! the "new" trans is light years better than my old one, no whining, no infinite backlash, no vibrations, accel and decel sound and feel the same, amazing!
i got the 6" shackles in, and they put my pinion within a degree or so of where it should be, about 2 degrees down from the shaft at ride height, and no vibrations to speak of through 75 mph.
and i of course had to put it in low low and walk next to it driving itself up the driveway. soo cool!
and pics:

cv joint and rear output:


pinion angle:


rear shackle angle with new shackles ( a little more vertical, less droop, more cushion on the road, and good pinion angle and more level stance):


rear shot of new ride height:


side shot:


and the little man:

HighLux

Thanks for the pictures and info. Looking awesome.

de6w6it

thanks man, much appreciated

I was also going to mention something I ran into while installing the duals. When trying to mate the rear case to the front range box, the two would go together, but would bottom out with about 1/8th inch to go. I couldn't figure out what was going on so I called Marlin. Turns out either I missed it or I had a different case than the instructions were for, because I hadn't cut the end off of the passenger side shift rail too. Basically they tell you to cut off 1/2 inch off the driver side rail, so it doesn't hit the adapter, but you also have to cut the passenger side rail too, the one with the part that sticks out to the side to keep it from pulling into the case too far.
what it seems to boil down to, is shift both rails so they are all the way out, and trim both until they dont interfere with the adpater plate.
just a heads up for anyone else running into an issue.

dewitt

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Sweet write up, man! Love that shot of the lil mister in the front seat, too! hahaha.

Glad you're so happy with your rig's upgrades and that it's riding nice!

de6w6it

thanks man!!

Dave the welder

Glad to see my old tailgate got a good home

de6w6it

ha ha hey man, hows it goin? tailgate was probably the best money i ever spent on the runner, thats for sure

de6w6it

when i originally did my sas, I drilled the shackle tube holes with a hole saw. the passenger side came out perfect, but the driver side ended up crooked, with the inside higher than the outside. well, this obviously caused some problems, ie eating the bushings, and allowing a lot of slop. it was something i left because of time crunch at the time of the build, and decided i would come back to fix later. so this past weekend i put a new shackle tube in, from marlin, which has a bigger O.D. than the tubes from FROR that i originally used. so I had to open up the hole on top of making it straight. I got it all welded in, and this time it is perfect. I also ordered a whole new shackle kit from marlin, 5 inch, which is a half inch shorter than the FROR ones i used previously. This gives me a slightly better shackle angle, pinion angle, and a small step towards the truck actually sitting level.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Good Job, Dewit! Hope I can some day see some pics of you out on the trails in this thing! I LIKE this truck, GIMME, GIMME, GIMME! hahaha. Ok, that's too much... how about, "Gimme wheelin pics"???? lol.

Take it easy, bud,

Mark

de6w6it

so, since i did the duals, i havent had a front shaft for two reasons, i need to re-build it 6.5 " longer, and the stock crossmember doesn't have enough room for the cv joint at the case because it sits back too far. i am going to go with the trail gear dual case crossmember, because i dont need any of the features you get with the other more expensive crossmembers. i also ordered 2 feet of 2 1/2 by 2 1/2, 1/4 wall, to re-do it. today i cut the cv off the old receiver tube and got it all ground and ready to weld into the new metal. and a note: when i originally built the shaft, i dis-assembled the cv to replace the u joints. i also bought a new centering bearing, and ended up deciding against using it. they are extremely difficult to get out, and apparently the replacements they make do not stay in properly, or are not made to the full correct tolerances, so even people like jess from H.A.D. say if the center bearing is bad, get a new/new to you (as in used) cv. the guy that built my rear shaft for me told me he won't even replace the u joints on the yota cv's because " it can't be done ". i replaced the two u joints in the cv without too much trouble, and will do it again when the u joints in the cv in my rear shaft go out. also, they are not the same pn as the u joints in non-cv joints in yota shafts. the single joint style is the one all the companies sell for $20. the cv ones you have to get from napa or the like.
as soon as i get the metal and re-make the shaft and/or get the crossmember in, i will post pics.

de6w6it

well, the square tube came in to extend my front shaft, and my trail gear crossmember showed up today as well:

x-member:


side shot to show how it ends up with the cases at stock height with respect to the framerails:


and it will only hang 4" below framerails, whereas the stock one is about 2.5" lower than that:


hope to get it installed and shaft made and installed saturday morning, and will post up results.

de6w6it

cross-member is in and driveshaft is made and installed.

dark pic of cross-member in:


shaft re-tubed:


about 40.5" extended with about an inch still engaged:


about 28.5" collapsed:


at ride height it is a little less than 35", so about 5.5" extension, 6.5" compression.

welded up with my new 220 v hobart 187:

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Nice work, D! I'm trying to understand all you're doing, hahaha. Welding looks good! BTW, could you get another pic of that brace in the light? Wanna see it installed, yeah? lol.

Hope you had a Merry Christmas and Happy New year, Bud..

Mark

de6w6it

thanks man, much appreciated
all is well here, hope you had a great holiday too
better pics to follow.

de6w6it

driver side:


passenger side:


looking up:


front shaft:


front pinion angle:


much better angle after duals and slightly shorter front shackle. caster is still pretty good, wheel still returns completely to center and tracks very well on highway at speed.

i also swapped a "new" (to me) throttle body on, as in mine, the shaft was worn so bad it would stick open slightly unless you tapped the gas pedal. this is even after putting in a push-pull cable and 3 additional springs to get eveything working as smoothly as i could. so i took the new tb and cleaned it all out, plugged the one vac port before the butterfly with jb weld and a bolt, as i elimnated this vac line, and removed that damper thing that comes on tb's from manual trucks to keep the throttle from closing too quickly. i also swapped my idle adjust screw with new o-ring onto the new tb. hopefully pedal feel and return to closed will be improved.

de6w6it

so far, the new TB is amazing compared to my old one.
I have also replaced the u joints in the rear cv joint, as when i installed it, it still had the original yota joints from '85. Precision u joint part number 513 fits the 85-88 front cv joints, refered to as locations 1 and 2, they may fit more years, but I can't say from experience, although I believe all front cv's use the same u joints, at least until 95.
I have been hunting around for the source of a clunking noise in the front end. It really only happens when the front driver side wheel drops sharply, as it would into a pothole or something.
The spring hangar bolts, shackle bolts, caliper bolts, lower trunion cap bolts, hi steer arm bolts, steering box bolts, and u bolts are tight.
The bushings are all new and look ok.
The shocks are tight.
I jacked up the axle and tried to wobble both front wheels by grabbing the top and bottom, and there was absolutely no play, so the wheel bearings and trunion bearings are still tight.
New motor mounts and front t case mount, rear tcase mount is used but in there and tight for good measure.
It could be the front shaft, but it happened with the shaft not in there.
I had originally thought it was the chewed up shackle bushings from when the frame tube was crooked, but now that it is fixed it canbe eliminated as a possibility.
Brakes feel fine.
Drives on highway daily @ 70 fine.
No death wobble, no steering stabalizer.
Returns to center fine.
All 4 tie rod ends are fine.
Steering box seems to have next to 0 play in it.
It could be the steering shaft, as I drilled out the plastic pins when i moved the box, and it is a relatively sloppy slip joint fit.
I am leaning towards the body mounts/body flex/body rot/etc. The front corners of the floor boards are pretty rough. The inner fender has rub marks from the steering shaft and box. Since the rubber mounts are toast, and they need replacing anyway, we shall see if this fixes the clunk. I found both summit and jegs carry poly body bushing replacements. Both pro-thane and energy suspension have part numbers for our era yotas.
these part numbers are good for 84-88 runners, but if you enter your vehicle info into summit or jegs, it will find em
pro-thane p.n. 18-102 is red
pro-thane p.n. 18-102B is black
energy p.n. 8-4102R is red
energy p.n. 8-4102G is black
shipping is delayed a few days, but these places are great to order from.
i looked around, and i believe it is on 4crawler somewhere in here:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/BodyLiftKit.shtml
, but the 84-88 runners use the same M10-1.25x80mm bolts on all 10 body mount locations. I am going to try and find some replacements. It also seems 7/16-20x3.5" grade 8 will work, although a little snugger of a fit. I may go this route, as long as they go through the new hardware/bushings/etc, as they are going to be way easier to source than grade 10.9 M10 bolts. I will post more as i obtain the body kit and new bolts, and once they are in, the status of the clunk.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Ok, I'm officially now suffering from "IOSICU"....."Information Overload on Stuff I Can't Understand"!!!! lol. Actually, I hear ya on the "WHERE'S THAT FRIGGEN NOISE COMING FROM!?" SYNDROME! LOL. Mine ended up being a ball joint and A-arm bushing......obviously not the case with your SAS, lol.

Still watching. Can't offer any input on the SFA issue.... but wishin you a quick find! lol.

Mark

PS> "TB" is amazing"..... TB? Meaning Throttle Body? I'll read back to the last page after I post this so I can laugh at myself! lol. OH, and any input you have on my build thread would be appreciated, as always!

de6w6it

ha ha ha, sorry man. just trying to put up information all in one place, so if someone is searching, it may help and yeah, TB is throttle body
I was hoping and not hoping at the same time it was something like the hi steer arm or wheel bearings, but its not. it is definitely getting worse, but i still cant track it down. i looked at the floorboard under my feet at the pedals, and it and the area where the inner fender meets the firewall meets the floor around the body mount right there is swiss cheese.
i def have to head over and check your thread.
take it easy my friend
dewitt

de6w6it

got a few little things done today in the 100 mph winds we have goin on here in jersey.

out with the old:



in with the new:



used 7/16-14x3.5" grade 8 bolts. somehow ended up being the smoothest install on the yota yet, with no seized bolts or horrendous rust or anything. used the pro-thane kit, from summit, in red because it was in stock.

also mounted up my new driver side mirror, as the old one fell off the other day, broken where the pivot point is. i re-wired my front driver side blinker, as the wire corroded and broke off. and i fixed my horn. there wasn't enough brass left on the pin (that sticks out on the spring from the steering column when you take the wheel off) to make contact with the brass ring on the back of the steering wheel. I took off the brass ring, and put small washers (that the three mounting screws pass through) behind it to space it out. now there's contact and horn blares the way it should.
that is all.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey, that lock washer is not lockededed.... you did that later? lol.