When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Glad you liked it. This video was a lot more work than any of my previous videos. Many more hours editing. It's also my first video filmed on a new camera and edited with new software. YouTube has cracked down on copyrighted music. Some of my older stuff was either muted or straight up deleted and re-uploaded due to music in the background or added in. They did at one point have a tool which would replace the audio of a previously uploaded video but my memory is that it was finicky. All the music in this video is license free and provided by YouTube for use. They actually have a pretty large selection of instrumental music. It's well organized and searchable for genre, mood, length, and other categories.
Yep great video, I just finished watching. I also really like when people post their mistakes, like where you left off the plate behind the flywheel. You are human, nothing wrong with an oops moment, thank you for leaving that in the video. I like the burnouts in the garage at the end!
Great video! Seems like every post in your build-up is right in line with what I'm working on too! Thanks for the tips and tricks. Nice to see someone tackle these jobs with confidence.
Going back to an earlier post you made before I torque down my intake...
Originally Posted by arlindsay1992
Then I cut out the rubbing, and stenciled it onto the manifold. There's a pretty decent difference, so I decided to port match the intake to the head.
Did you just hit these with a die grinder? Sand paper and a year of your life? I have a stock intake and the ported 22RE head, so before I bolt everything down, I figured I may try this as well.
Good to hear people enjoyed the video. It's good to know people pick stuff up from watching them. There's so many different ways to accomplish the same task, so I think it's helpful just to see one person's way of doing things. You might not do it exactly the same but you might pick something up that is useful in the future.
For porting the intake manifold, I think I did the bulk removal with a Dremel and the burr you can see in the bottom right of the picture you quoted. This left a lumpy finish though since it's a small diameter, so I smoothed it out and blended it in with a larger abrasive grinding cone on a die grinder. The grinding cone isn't great on aluminum so I did have to dress it a few times to get the build up off.
Got some catching up to do but it'll have to wait. For now, just a small update.
The spring hanger I bought came with 18mm holes and 18mm bolts with locking nuts. Most spring bushings have an 18mm hole. This means no metal sleeve. This is not ideal. If you crank down on the front spring bolts, you'll squish the life out of the bushings. The intended solution is to only tighten the nuts far enough to put a slight squish on the bushings, but this isn't very tight and allows the bolt to walk back and forth and oval out the hole in the spring hanger. The OEM setup on older trucks uses a funky bolt which is basically a super long shoulder bolt. The bolt has 14mm threads and an 18 mm shoulder. The shoulder allows you to tighten the bolt and get an actual metal on metal fastened joint, then the head has a funky flange which is itself bolted to the spring hanger to prevent that end from wallowing out the hole. Later springs simply used a rubber bushing with a metal sleeve vulcanized in and a normal 14mm bolt. This is what I tried to replicate first. I believe this will last better long term although it's not ideal in terms of handling for a front spring setup which I'll explain later. So the main thing to fix to make this all work is turning the 18mm holes in the Low Range Off Road spring hanger into 14mm holes. To do this I bought some DOM tubing from McMaster Carr. 89955K298 is 3/4" OD and 0.095" wall thickness which works out great for this. I drilled the spring hanger holes to 3/4", inserted short pieces of tubing, welded them in, and ground them flush. The end result is a hole sized perfectly for a 14mm bolt.
Here you can see the LROR supplied 18mm bolt and the OEM spring bushing for the rear springs on a 1987 4Runner. The bushing has a 14mm hole. I wanted to use the OEM bushing with its metal sleeve so the front spring bolt can be fully torqued down and not allow any for-aft movement which would oval out the holes after years of use.
I welded some scrap to the top of it to take up the gap that exists due to the construction of these frames right at the front. At this point the hanger is able to be welded in.
And here it is fully welded.
Drilled another hole in the passenger spring perch 1 3/8" forward of the center hole. There are three hole in the driver's side perch, a center hole, a hole 1 3/8" forward of center, and another the same distance to the rear. The extra holes are smaller though so I drilled the driver's side forward hole out to match the spring pin diameter. RUF springs move the axle forward a bit, these hole will reduce the distance that the axle is pushed forward. I'm doing this to avoid having to move the steering box. In the future if I get bigger tires, I may suck it up and move the steering box. At that point I can use the center spring perch holes to move the axle forward again.
Drilled the U bolt plates also, as is necessary.
At this point it was time to bolt up the axle for real. The inner U bolt on the passenger side required being heated and slightly bent to fit. I know another member had to do the same thing.
Shackle angle came out perfect since I'm using rear springs and just copied the rear frame eye-to-eye measurements.
These are factory rear springs from this 1987 4Runner with the overload removed and an add-a-leaf from Toytec. After a couple days they sagged and are pretty much flat. I wasn't expecting this since they are used springs, but I guess they relaxed during the 5 years or so they were in storage with no load. You can see the distance between the bumpstop to the frame won't allow for much up travel. There is actually less travel than it appears. Bumpstop pads are required to reduce the travel about an inch or else the drag link will hit the driver's side spring first. Confirming the issue is the fact that the springs are simply super soft when driving around. Definitely need to add a couple leaves.
Trail-Gear shock hoops are welded in along with the recycled original brake hose mount. Braided brake hoses are from Marlin. Shocks are Billi's of course.
Went to the junkyard to buy some leaf springs. The only thing I could find with the same width springs was a Nissan hardbody 2WD. Luckily, it had no bed on it so it was super easy to get the springs. So I bought them, cut the leafs down, and installed them into my RUF pack. I got height about right to allow for the proper amount of up travel, but now they are too stiff. The Nissan pack only had two leafs plus an overload so each leaf must be pretty stiff. Also they had less arch since it was a 2WD truck so the various leafs in my current RUF pack are internally fighting each other. I'm not really happy with this setup mainly because it's super stiff. It's also pretty obvious I need to do something about the rear. I'm not about this squat. I'll be happy if the rear matches the front lift, and it looks like I'm going to be going up to 35's. It's just the natural next step in the 4x4 evolution.
Gotta admit it looks awesome with a solid axle underneath of it.
Also, unrelated, but I'm planning a coast to coast (and back) motorcycle trip. I have the main cities and stops planned out but figured it might be nice to meet up with a couple of you along the way if it's close to my route and a convenient time for you. I'll be on a motorcycle, not in a Toyota, but it would probably still be cool to grab a drink or meal with fellow Toyota guys. I love seeing other old 'Yotas. Hopefully our global situation will be improved when I get moving on this trip. I'll be vaccinated soon through work. Hopefully by then everyone else who wants to be vaccinated will be vaccinated. We'll see. I don't want to post dates or route out here in public, but if anyone is interested, PM me and we can talk.
02-14-2021, 06:22 AM
