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that's a pretty cheesy wire "repair", i wonder why they went to a smaller gauge.
what do with these big wire electrical issues is use a 20-25 watt soldering iron, it heats up really quickly and gets the soldering done fast, even with metal crimps in the picture.
for that starter, you may end up needing to replace the relay, they are cheap on ebay... i just did one, direct wire to the battery like you did, but with the original connector for the other wires... it was slow, had to pry the old connectors apart and then re-crimp and also soldered the wire to the connector... but then mine is an '86, that uses that weird relay situation.
the big thing to watch out for on these old toyotas is rust around the windshield and into the door pillars... you can access the windshield to fix the cancer, but when it's internal to the door pillar, it's going to be difficult.
So as I’ve learned more by reading, that’s actually a fusible link from the factory. It’s designed to melt before the 80a fuse it’s tied to pops. I can’t find one to replace it as they seem to be discontinued from Toyota and others so it’s getting replaced with a 6ga wire like several others here have done.
The relay may be replaced but we’ll see. It and the ignition switch are all that’s left but I doubt it’s either of those. I can bypass all of that and hook the starter to a battery and the solenoid just thunks.
the thunking sound might be the solenoid doing part of it's job, can you hook 12v directly up to the starter itself, see if it rotates? i'm guessing that the other part of the job of the solenoid is to pass a temporary high current 12v connection to the starter, so it'll rotate.
I've hooked a pair of jumper cables direct to the starter and then hooked a wire direct from the starter to a battery and it still just thunks. It may be bad grounds, it may be to small of wire and the starter is requiring more amps because of it's age, it may just be the starter itself. I've got all new bigger cables coming (show up tomorrow actually) so I'm going to give those a quick shot and then go from there.
unfortunately with these starters we can't easily put power directly to the rotational motor lugs, that power it for turning over... so the plunger is going in, if it won't turn it could be the internal contacts, which are rebuildable: https://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Starter.shtml
Could be and thanks for the link. Had forgotten about them offering that. If the wires don’t fix it I’ll probably end up buying a new (not remanufactured) starter anyways and rebuild this one as a spare.
Ya. Master is leaking and figured why not do both along with the rubber line that’s in the system. I’ll just stick to regular dot3. Not much heat in a clutch system to really justify it.
dot5 is good because it doesn't absorb moisture, like regular brake fluid, but i've heard that it's expensive :-0
i've been thru at least three clutch masters in the 13 or so years that i've owned this 4runner, two of the failures were aisin... when bleeding out the last replacement, it looked like the fluid was dirty, maybe rubber breakdown? if i knew that dot5 could fix that, i'd be switching.
by comparison, my '97 miata has the same clutch master that it had when i bought it 10 years ago, i haven't even changed the fluid(not smart, lol).
That's another benefit but I've never had an issue with water getting in and ruining my brake systems in my life so I'm not concerned with it on the clutch. Honestly I'm one of those people that don't even bleed brakes on the regular unless I open the system up to replace something.
the corrosion from moisture is on the inside, where the fluid is, because it's hygroscopic, it absorbs moisture in the air... opened bottles of dot 3 are only good for a year at most, while dot 5 has a theoretically unlimited shelf life.
of course dot 5 can't be mixed with anything else, so running one type in the brake master and another type in the clutch master is asking for issues, including what if something goes out on the road and has to be fixed.
i wish that i was better at regular maintenance flushing/bleeding of these systems... i even put speed bleeders on all four corners of the brakes, as an incentive, didn't help.
Yes I understand all of that. And it's never once been an issue in my life of owning a vehicle even the ones I've kept for 10 years. It's going to get the cheapest DOT 3 I can find and it'll be fine.
Decided to chance it and take the top off. Came off with a little prying on it since the gasket had glued itself to the body. Was concerned there may be rust under it but not a single speck. Also cleaned the interior up some to get the grime off. Going to order a carpet kit and window seal kit for it and then next paycheck a gasket set for the top.
New Aisian clutch master, slave, and rubber line replaced and fluid power bled. Feels so much nicer. I think someone touched this before because the top nut going into the rubber line had red lock tite on it and there were lots of new words created.
Does anyone know what this piece is? Came with the new master but not a clue what it does.
03-13-2024, 02:20 PM
