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Well the brakes suck now. Gotta put your foot almost all the way to the floor. Can lock up the rears with a bit of effort. I know the fronts are doing something because the rotors are hot. Going to try and bleed it again and see if maybe there’s an air bubble I didn’t get out but I’m not confident on that.
Other than that, she’s running great! Going to start driving it around this week.
Could the brake issue be because I’ve got late 89 calipers and master and early 89 booster? I’m 99.9% confident there is no air because the brakes never pump up after repeated stops and I went through all the wheels twice today with my power bleeder. They just always feel the exact same.
Could the brake issue be because I’ve got late 89 calipers and master and early 89 booster? I’m 99.9% confident there is no air because the brakes never pump up after repeated stops and I went through all the wheels twice today with my power bleeder. They just always feel the exact same.
I really doubt the brake issue is just slightly different calipers. The only thing they changed was the size of 2 of the pistons in the calipers if I remember correct.
I don't know where to recommend you look, except is the brake booster rod adjusted correctly for the new master cylinder, and is the brake pedal rod adjusted correct for the booster?
Are you sure its just not new rotors and pads that have not been "bed" in yet? maybe use a wireless thermometer to see if one side is much hotter than the other...
The rod was something else I was pondering over today. Guess I could lengthen it and give it a shot.
I touched both rotors and both were hot but that’s as technical as I got. Not certain how much the fronts were working considering there weren’t any marks or discoloration or changes to the rotor after bedding in the brakes but I know they work to a point because I can spin the tire and press the pedal and they stop.
For the record, master cylinder, booster, calipers, rear wheel cylinders have all been replaced with new parts. Not reman. But new.
Yeah, the booster to master cylinder rod needs to be exact. There is a special tool or use calipers to check the clearance between the booster and the master cylinder. If you have a gap, it will feel like no brakes since you aren't really compressing the master when you push the pedal.
Teh pedal rod adjuster just needs some amount of free play so you aren't holding the brakes on all the time. There are two seperate adjustments.
I have brake fluid pressure gauges that are used to test the proportioning valve and master cylinder, but I don't think you need to go that far yet.
Pulled the master off to measure the booster rod. It was maybe a half turn short so not enough to make a difference.
Went ahead and redid the bench bleed on the master since I had it off. Didn’t see any air.
Put the master back on but left the bench bleed hoses still on and in the reservoir. Went and pushed the pedal and it’s firm all the way through the stroke so I feel confident that’s good.
Im wondering if there is still a big air pocket somewhere in the lines. Think I’m gonna go buy several bottles of fluid and bleed a whole bottle through each wheel. Figure thats going to flush anything out that may still be trapped in there.
Looks like you down graded from a dual diaphragm booster to a single diaphragm booster. See how the original has that step in it and the new one doesnt.
Most people choose to run a dual diaphragm booster, 1" MC, and 6v calipers.
Great work so far. Subscribed. Are you able to bleed the LSPV? I know that some have bleeder valves while others don't. Probably a long shot, but I thought I'd throw it out there.
Originally Posted by toyoda addict;[url=tel:52491909
52491909[/url]]Looks like you down graded from a dual diaphragm booster to a single diaphragm booster. See how the original has that step in it and the new one doesnt.
Most people choose to run a dual diaphragm booster, 1" MC, and 6v calipers.
Ya I ordered for an 89 and ended up being the early 89. It’ll work fine.
Originally Posted by thebeaverisdead;[url=tel:52491913
52491913]great work so far. Subscribed. Are you able to bleed the lspv? I know that some have bleeder valves while others don't. Probably a long shot, but i thought i'd throw it out there.
Well I rebled it. Got some air out of the LSV and a bunch of nasty fluid. Brakes are better but still go about halfway down before they start to grab. Probably need to replace all the rubber lines next but for now I can lock the brakes up with a bit of effort so I’m happy.
Replaced turn signal bulbs but that didn’t fix the non working front one. Think the relay is still on the fritz as it froze up again on me today. That and the right one is getting at least 10v with the hazards on and the left is only getting about 6v.
Factory water temp gauge still doesn’t work even after a new sender. Think I’m just gonna go cheap auto parts store coolant gauge and call it good.
Decided to go ahead and drive the thing. Took it up to 60mph and it’s smooth as glass. No wobbles or bouncing or vibrations or weird noises. There’s about a quarter turn of play in the steering wheel, 3rd is a bit tricky to grab, and the shocks are completely shot, but man, it was nice to drive it.
Last edited by cashmoney00; 03-12-2024 at 11:50 AM.
New flasher module didn’t fix the blinker. Pulled the left housing out (non working) and put it on the right side (working) and the problem followed. Plugged the right housing into the left socket and it worked just fine. Tells me the problem is at the housing.
It’s fairly corroded in here. Buddy of mine suggested wiping it down with white vinegar to help clean it. Thoughts? Are there new housings available aftermarket? Don’t really wanna try and unpin and pull apart 35yr old plastic and rubber.
Rubber brake lines replaced. Made a small amount of difference in the brakes.
Went to start it and it clicked. Charged it overnight. Click. Put a jump pack on it. Click. Pulled the starter and hooked it to another battery and it spun just fine. Hooked it to the battery in the 4Runner and nothing. Took it to o’reilly’s because it’s under warranty (bought in August). They said it tested good and can’t warranty it. Also said it was the smallest battery available and they’ll sell me the bigger one and warranty the small one. $115 later I installed the new battery. Click.
Did some reading and came across the starter relay may be wired wrong. Decided to run one straight to the battery like the write up says. Boom. She fired off.
Added it to insurance yesterday. Inspection on Monday. And if all goes well, she’s legally driveable.
Starter locked up on me again. Had to pull start it. Solenoid thunks hard like usual but it would not spin the starter. Even hooked a jumper cable up from my buddy’s diesel direct to the main lead on the starter and nothing. So time to swap that out.
Also going to upgrade some of the wiring. Going to run 2ga from battery to starter and from battery to block and then 4ga from battery to fender and block to firewall. Also found my fusible link is in less than stellar condition and was just jammed into the terminal and one of the grounds was fraying. Always something.
I know there are two other body grounds in here but I’m just going for the easy ones at the moment. Might try and grab the one from steering to body if it’s easy enough but the one under the intake manifold is staying.
Went and double checked and there isn't a ground I can find on the PS bracket coming up from the alternator.
Did get the new cables ordered. Pre-terminated, 2ga for starter to battery and battery to block, 4ga for battery to fender and head to firewall, all USA made copper. $51.
Last edited by cashmoney00; 03-12-2024 at 12:14 PM.
01-07-2024, 02:23 PM
