WTB FZJ80 Wheels - Any Ideas??
#1
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WTB FZJ80 Wheels - Any Ideas??
Thinking about going this route. Any ideas where I can snag a set?? Ebay isn't helping me out.
EDIT: These are the ones I'm thinking of:
Thanks Bamachem
EDIT: These are the ones I'm thinking of:
Thanks Bamachem
Last edited by yoda-g2; 06-05-2006 at 11:51 AM.
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Originally Posted by bamachem
ih8mud.com
ebay.com
ebay.com
Ya, I've been keeping an eye out at both those places with no luck yet. I was hoping to get a set before a wheeling trip in 4 weeks so I don't scrape up the chrome ones.
BTW, thanks for the pic, I hope you don't mind me using it.
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Originally Posted by Localmotion
those are the lx450 wheels btw.
#6
Originally Posted by yoda-g2
Thanks for the heads up. Just curious, what is the finish like on these? Is it that machined plastic that can chip, or is it more like the silver OEM 4runner wheel finish? I'm looking for something that can be run year round and handle the road salt, and the ocassional rock scuff.
I am 2 wheels into a major refurb on my FJZ-80 wheels right now. I have about 10-12 hrs in each rim so far.
David
#7
contact this seller and make sure payment has been received...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LEXUS...spagenameZWDVW
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LEXUS...spagenameZWDVW
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#8
I have the Land Cruiser rims but really wanted the LX450 rims. They just look cooler. Kind of funny because I spent a lot of time looking for a set of 5 in good condition and now after only 3 off roading trips they look pretty nasty.
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Originally Posted by nrgetic99
Machined and laquered and painted on the rough cast sections between the spokes.
I am 2 wheels into a major refurb on my FJZ-80 wheels right now. I have about 10-12 hrs in each rim so far.
David
I am 2 wheels into a major refurb on my FJZ-80 wheels right now. I have about 10-12 hrs in each rim so far.
David
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Hmmmmm, you're making me rethink things a bit. I want wheels that will be almost zero maintenance. (I'd rather spend my time polishing the 4Runner )
I need to be able to run them year round with the crap they put on the roads here (too cheap for another set of tires) and I want to be able to wheel without holding back because I'm afraid of what happens to my rims.
Maybe I'll stop by a local tire place and check out how some plain old black crawlers look.
Thanks for all the input guys. Keep it coming.
I need to be able to run them year round with the crap they put on the roads here (too cheap for another set of tires) and I want to be able to wheel without holding back because I'm afraid of what happens to my rims.
Maybe I'll stop by a local tire place and check out how some plain old black crawlers look.
Thanks for all the input guys. Keep it coming.
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yeah, thats the trade off with bling, esp if youre gonna wheel it. i was hoping i'd be able to keep my 80 wheels somewhat nice n shiny but nope. even in the handful of mild wheeling trips ive done, it takes its toll. esp rocks & deep ruts. even managed to rip off a centercap. good thing i got em used, and my rides not that new anymore, so it somewhat matches. that said, im still pretty reluctant to sell my oe rims & all season tread not that id put em back on..but just incase.
so now, im looking into getting them coated or painted gun metal grey. im guessing in spokane they salt the roads alot? im not too far, but we get maaybe 6 hrs of snow. literally. black steelies can also look badass, but IMO, only on a lighter ride ie white/silver or desert dune/champagne etc etc...
so now, im looking into getting them coated or painted gun metal grey. im guessing in spokane they salt the roads alot? im not too far, but we get maaybe 6 hrs of snow. literally. black steelies can also look badass, but IMO, only on a lighter ride ie white/silver or desert dune/champagne etc etc...
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Originally Posted by d0ubledown
... im guessing in spokane they salt the roads alot? im not too far, but we get maaybe 6 hrs of snow. literally. black steelies can also look badass, but IMO, only on a lighter ride ie white/silver or desert dune/champagne etc etc...
I'm hoping that black will look alright on this thing. I am starting to rethink tires as well. Something a little beefier might be nice....
#15
Maybe the LX rims wear better than the LC ones do then. They do look better. Not a huge fan of the black steelies myself but if your gonna thrash them....not a bad way to go. Andy's rig is stylin.
#16
Originally Posted by d0ubledown
got pics and/or write up of this process? id like to see your progress...before/after schtuff.
Got sidetracked.
Here is an outline :
BACKGROUND : I paid under $90 a rim for a set of 5 which are striaght, no gouges but have major corrosion of the aluminium UNDER the clearcoat. I also negotiated a rate of $20 per rim for clear powdercoating if I do all the prep. When done, I will have less than $120 per rim in these rims which are : Forged, OEM, 16 x 8, perfect backspacing. I could not get anything even close for less than $170 per rim and most of those are cast.
Couple of before shots showing corrosion :
1. Remove all factory clear coat with "Aircraft paint stripper" (this is a product which works really well with aluminium)
This takes two to three applications and a plastic scraper and plenty of patience.
Wear gloves and safety glasses (a respirator can't be a bad thing) when applying.
After stripping :
2. Wash thoroughly with fresh water and mild detergent (car shampoo)
3. Starting with a 'scotchbrite' or similar abrasive pad on a rotary tool and locally remove all the corrosion , spider lines, pitting from machined surface.
4. Wash thoroughly with water and dry
I purchased a kit from Eastwood company consisting of a smoothing and buffing kit - it had various buffs plus 80, 200, 320, tripolli and white rouge compounds. Can be found here
5. Using a corded drill, start with the 80 grit on buffing wheel and smooth out major scratches in areas you have removed pitting/corrosion from.
Wash thoroughly
6. Repeat above with a new buff for 220, 320, tripolli then white rouge compounds washing between each step. Any grinding paste residue or aluminium shards will quickly undo all of your work so washing is critical.
In progress..you can see small scratches which need to be smoothed :
At this point, you should have a wheel with a highly smoothed and polished outer rim and spokes.
7. Buff spokes and outer rim with Mothers Alumimium wheel polish and a Mothers polishing ball.
Finished but before bead blasting rough cast area and powder coat
8. Open a cold one and admire where you are at.
9. Mask off spokes and rim leaving just the rougher cast areas between the spokes (these are now dirty, corroded and full of metal polish etc).
When you are happy you have masked really well, bead /media blast these areas .
10. You've guessed it, wash wheel thouroughly again.
11. Hand buff polished areas of spokes with soft terry towel cloth and NO compound.
12. Wipe wheel clean with mineral spirits or some other degreaser
13. Powdercoat entire rim clear.
Pics to come later ...
14. Get tire mounted and bolt her up to car
15. Install shiny new centercaps you bought from a shady dude in Singapore
16. Pass out from exhaustion before you get a chance to admire your work.
Simple really
David
Last edited by nrgetic99; 06-08-2006 at 12:16 PM.
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