Full Boogie

We have two extra manifolds sitting around for some kits we did for some local guys and for the time being we just want to sell them. Manifolds are built with schedule 40 weld els and have a 1/2" thick T3 inlet flange. Head flanges are 1/2" thick and they are fully TIG welded and designed for an internal wastegate set-up.

Pics:
http://netsol.netobjects.com/matrix/...et?id=13315582

http://netsol.netobjects.com/matrix/...et?id=13315559

One manifold is coated with Techline satin black 2,000 degree finish (pictured) the other is bare. Lifetime warrenty on them if they crack or a weld breaks call us for a return # and to give us the heads up and we replace NOT repair yours, new one is shipped the day we recieve yours. Unfortunatly the coating is not warrantied but this stuff has lasted on turbo set-ups for us for years.

$200 for the coated one-shipped anywhere in the lower 48
$150 for the bare one-shipped anywhere in the lower 48

Check, Paypal, any major credit card accepted.

Thanks,
Full Boogie

knucklehead38401

Pics don't seem to work, intrested if the flange is turned up or down.

Full Boogie

Sorry about that pic links work now, the inlet flange is at angle to clear the hood with turbo mounted, but when you pop the hood it's very visible, you'll know it's turbo'ed unlike the factory turbo trucks with them all tucked away.

Thanks,
Full Boogie

phorensic

Very nice manifolds. The thickness of the flange from the head to the manifold is excellent. And for people who think schedule 40 and weld els will not hold up, you are wrong, they work fine. Whoever is trying to turbo a 22re right and gets these is going to have a good project on their hands.

Just a thing to note. In between the two sets of cylinders I see that you guys have drilled some holes in the flange for thermal expansion. After reading Corky Bell's Maximum Boost and seeing a ton of supra/silvia/volvo etc turbo manifolds on the net, I would suggest anyone who intends to use this manifold to cut a 1/16" or 1/8" slot where the drilled holes are. It kind of seperates the two sets of cylinders and allows for proper thermal expansion without breaking/cracking stuff. Wish I had a pic to illustrate this.

Don't get me wrong though, that manifold looks very good.

Full Boogie

phorensic,

Thanks for the good thoughts considering I don't think we have ever dealt business together, I to own Maximum Boost, very good book for anyone wanting to gain knowledge on the topic of turbocharging. As far as thermal expansion goes we have built some kits for Nissan trucks and a few other cars using this "log" manifold type set-up and have not had any problems with the manifolds without slicing the head flange in half so to speak once all welded together. I think the problem would be more present in a tubular header, these manifolds have proven to be very strong. We have done some turbo kits for V8 performance cars that got a 3/8" head flange and seemed to like to blow the exhaust gaskets even once we cut the flanges between the cylinders, yet the same set-up using a 1/2" flange doesn't even get cut has no problems with burning out the gaskets. We believe for sure on a turbo exhuast system every flange should be 1/2" minimum, just that extra material to suck up and dissapate heat makes a difference.

I would also like to point out straight from Corky Bell's book (Maximum Boost), a quote: "Don't run to the forged piston store when thinking about turbocharging"

We have had alot of guys e-mail us about turbocharging and are worried about not having forged pistons, the stock 22RE pistons although shorter than early (pre '85~'86) 22R and RE's and 20R motors are, they have held very well with 7~8 PSI. Obviously having forged pistons is an excellent choice when building an engine but don't think you have to have them, many hardcore racers use hyperuetectic pistons because they are usually lighter than most forged and do actually dissipate heat better than a forged piston. This is why automakers use them, they can be set-up tighter (piston to wall clearance) than a forged, which helps with engine break in, sealing up the rings quicker, and reduce oil consumption even at high mileage, and all in turn for better emissions and no famous cold engine rattle from a cold loose forged piston. The forged advantage, if you have a tuning issue or something fails that makes the engine run lean for a few seconds before you catch it you might be alright, without a forged piston, taking in consideration you didn't loose the head gasket you might have some holes in a piston or two, or usually some ring lands missing.

Thanks,
Full Boogie

phorensic

I will fully agree on the 1/2" flange use. Even though my flanges will be ~3ft. from the exhaust manifolds, I'm still using 1/2". If I was making a turbo manifold instead of remote turbo install, I would use 1/2" for sure. Added benefit is that my fabricators plasma blows right through it when cutting flange shapes

jer's_90runner

What kind of turbo would go on this manifold, and what would be involved with installing a turbo? Is there some information somewhere?

Full Boogie

Any Turbo with a T3 inlet, we have an entire kit available for the 22RE's, and the V6 3VZE kit being released soon, but we don't have any info on the website yet......if you go to our website all the SC series turbo's are a T3 inlet. As far as what would be involved with installing a turbo? Are you wanting to know what other parts or details? A full instruction booklet comes with our kit to take you step by step with installation.


Thanks,
Full Boogie

jer's_90runner

I was wondering what else would have to be done to the engine, ie. efi and injector changes to take advantage of the turbo, and approx. how much hp the turbo would add, or how much could be safely added to the 22re.

Full Boogie

Our test truck got 7 lbs. non-intercooled, and jumped from 96.6 HP @ 4500 to 143.7 HP @ 4700, this is a 100% stock 1994 4x4 5-speed truck, we set the kits at this boost because with any pump gas, base timing set at 8 degrees, the truck runs safely. This truck is driven daily, every single day, Monday thru Saturday for work which we were told was 51 miles round trip each day. Motor has 131,xxx miles and has never been apart. Toyota rates the stock turbo trucks @ 135HP @ 4800 so to get 143 at the wheels gave us a good smile, as long as the boost is not increased from 7 PSI nothing needs to be changed, the stock fuel system supports it and proper A/F ratio is obtained by just the factory fuel pressure regulator raising the fuel pressure 1 PSI per 1 PSI of boost. We have an intercooler option for the kit if you want to start upping the boost but we suggest you give us a call and get some fuel system upgrades at that point. We are going to put some good exhaust on our test truck and head back to the dyno soon, we got those numbers through the stock cat and muffler (w/131K!), like I said this truck had absolutly no mods at all, that's why we wanted this truck. Dyno numbers from a Mustang chassis dyno, they are known for lower numbers than a Dynojet, but that is whole different topic!

All in all the 22RE is a stout motor, and if after driving the your truck with 7 PSI you'd probably be happy for a while!! Even at that it wouldn't require much money to add alot more HP and keep reliability.

Thanks,
Full Boogie

92runnersr5

i got a few questions. i have a tdo5h turbo laying around here from a build up i was doing on another vehicle. anywho what i was wondering is will my turbo be able to match up to the bolt holes with minor drilling (mine is 3 11/16ths" centre to centre across the holes). also what do you do about the maf? thanks
-Eddie

Full Boogie

Eddie, I will have to check those measurements to see if the turbo will bolt up-is that a Mitsubishi turbo?? As far as the MAF nothing needs to be done other than you need to make sure the turbo is sucking through it, not boost going through it, and use a BPV (Bypass valve) so you can route it back in between the MAF and inlet of the turbo, or you will have idle problems, and the truck might want to die after a hard accelerate and quick let off with immediate pushing in of the clutch.

Thanks

92runnersr5

yeah thats a mitsu turbo, if i could make it fit id be interested.and you got me kinda lost on the BPV, where do i put the BPV to route into the intake tube? i got a quick sketch done up could you point out where to put the bpv? thanks and let me know about the measurments asap please !! thanks alot in advance!!

Full Boogie

Basically the inlet of the bypass valve would come off your charge pipe going to the intake, then route the outlet of the bypass valve back into the intake pipe between the inlet side of the turbo and your MAF/air filter. Basically the engine will run funny or not at with a large vacumm leak after the MAF because at that point the amount of air consumed by the engine is different from what the MAF meter would be reading, some expensive Blow-off valves can be adjusted to not leak under non-boost conditions, but they can still leave you with unexpected stalling and weird driveability, so instead of just blowing off into the atmosphere keeping all the air the meter has "detected" in the system keeps the engine/computer happy.


Thanks,
Rick

92runnersr5

oh thats what i was thinking but wasnt sure ... so have you come up with weather or not itll fit? the bolts are 3inches by 2 5/16th inches. id love to know if itll fit or not!!

Full Boogie

Well, didn't you say the one measurement was 3 and 11/16"s?? The measurements you have now is that center to center? I'll just measure it all out, bolt holes center to center and the actual inlet measurements.


Thanks

92runnersr5

yeah i said it was 3 11/16th that was centre to centre but then i realized that centre to centre is no good cuz its not square so the second measurement is 2 5/16th across and 3 down. sorry for bein such a pita. and there is a short piece of pipe in between the turbo and mani that i got and the measurement on that is 1 15/16ths. again sorry and thanks

Full Boogie

Well the Garrett T3 flange measures 3 3/8" bolt center one way and 1 3/4" the other, you would need an adapter to bolt up your turbo to this manifold, the other problem is if you get an adapter it might stick the turbo to far up or to the drivers fender area. I am not sure of the size difference in the Mitsubishi turbo versus a Garrett, we designed this manifold around the Garrett and I am also not sure if there would be any other interference problems with the turbo like the wastegate set-up hitting the manifold or whatever. Your best bet would be to sell that turbo and pick up a Garrett T3, you can get a T3 off a SVO mustang, Thunderbird and such off ebay or those specific auto forums for a very reasonable price, I have seen some get sold for $100 bucks that on a 2.3L Ford motor have made 20+ PSI and those stock turbos also spool very quickly.


Thanks

knucklehead38401

I'll take the coated one. Let me know how I can pay. Email me at knucklehead38401@yahoo.com

Thanks,
Brian

Full Boogie

Brain, Sounds good, if you want call at 402-306-0612 or e-mail with your shipping address and how you want to pay, we accept check, money order, paypal, and credit card. I will be running around today (Wife's Birthday), but should be able to get in touch with you so this can ship out Monday.

Thanks,
Rick