Rims that fit Yota trucks?
#23
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Thread Starter
#27
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#28
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Thread Starter
Try fitting an alloy wheel which has square-shouldered lug holes and a center bore that's too large for the hub and see if it centers.
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BTW: This is my 88 with 2002 Taco wheels (which are also hub-centric).
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BTW: This is my 88 with 2002 Taco wheels (which are also hub-centric).
#30
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Thread Starter
Um, sorry. But no. Those wheels fit the hub perfectly (like my 88 alloy wheels did) and they center on the hub without a single lug nut being installed, despite the fact the lug holes are much larger than the stud diameter.
#32
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Thread Starter
Try this: Take a set of alloy wheels which has a center-bore larger than 106mm and mount them on your vehicle with only 1 lug nut and see how far you get. I can do this because my rims are hub-centric so I know the wheel will run true in spite of having a large number of nuts missing.
#34
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#36
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Since there is no conveniencing you...from 4 crawler's web site.
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ml#lug-centric
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Hub-Centric:
A hub and wheel design in which the wheel is centered on a raised center portion of the hub. The lug nuts/bolts then serve only to hold the wheel in place on the hub. Most tire balancing machines use a conical wheel mounting mechanism to locate the wheel/tire on the machine for balancing.
Lug-Centric:
A hub and wheel design in which the wheel is centered by the lug nuts/bolts themselves, often with clearance between the center of the hub and the cut out in the wheel. Toyota wheels are lug-centric and as such require a special lug-centric fixture to be properly balanced on a cone-type balancing machine, as the wheel center hole may not be exactly centered on the lug center point.
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ml#lug-centric
..........................................
Hub-Centric:
A hub and wheel design in which the wheel is centered on a raised center portion of the hub. The lug nuts/bolts then serve only to hold the wheel in place on the hub. Most tire balancing machines use a conical wheel mounting mechanism to locate the wheel/tire on the machine for balancing.
Lug-Centric:
A hub and wheel design in which the wheel is centered by the lug nuts/bolts themselves, often with clearance between the center of the hub and the cut out in the wheel. Toyota wheels are lug-centric and as such require a special lug-centric fixture to be properly balanced on a cone-type balancing machine, as the wheel center hole may not be exactly centered on the lug center point.
Last edited by snobdds; 01-03-2013 at 09:14 AM.
#37
Registered User
Thread Starter
Lets look at that more closely (it looks like you didn't read it very carefully):
Hub-Centric:
A hub and wheel design in which the wheel is centered on a raised center portion of the hub. The lug nuts/bolts then serve only to hold the wheel in place on the hub.
Well surprise, surprise! Both the front and rear axles on the 4R feature a raised portion around the center hub. Both are 106mm and match the center bore of the wheel. The wheel centers without the lug nuts.
Lug-Centric:
A hub and wheel design in which the wheel is centered by the lug nuts/bolts themselves, often with clearance between the center of the hub and the cut out in the wheel.
BZZZZZZZ! The yota wheel centers without the lug nuts being present. Also, the center bore has no clearance around the hub.
I'm not sure what the special adapter being required to balance the wheels is about. I just had mine mounted and balanced and there was no special tooling required. Even if there was, it's irrelevant since it in no way changes the fitment of the yota rims to the yota hub.
Hub-Centric:
A hub and wheel design in which the wheel is centered on a raised center portion of the hub. The lug nuts/bolts then serve only to hold the wheel in place on the hub.
Well surprise, surprise! Both the front and rear axles on the 4R feature a raised portion around the center hub. Both are 106mm and match the center bore of the wheel. The wheel centers without the lug nuts.
Lug-Centric:
A hub and wheel design in which the wheel is centered by the lug nuts/bolts themselves, often with clearance between the center of the hub and the cut out in the wheel.
BZZZZZZZ! The yota wheel centers without the lug nuts being present. Also, the center bore has no clearance around the hub.
I'm not sure what the special adapter being required to balance the wheels is about. I just had mine mounted and balanced and there was no special tooling required. Even if there was, it's irrelevant since it in no way changes the fitment of the yota rims to the yota hub.
#39
Registered User
Thread Starter
Toyota wheels are lug-centric and as such require a special lug-centric fixture to be properly balanced on a cone-type balancing machine, as the wheel center hole may not be exactly centered on the lug center point.
#40
Registered User
I looked into this one--from what I've found, everyone is right!
Toyota uses both hub and lug-centric wheels. Usually, the factory steel wheels are both lug-centric and, to varying degrees, hub-centric and the alloys are hub-centric.
What really defines a lug-centric wheel are the beveled lug holes and corresponding acorn-shaped lug nuts. With the Toyota lug-centric wheels, the hub also centers the wheel somewhat but the lug nuts do the more precise centering.
Wheels with flat, perpendicular surfaces where the lug nuts and wheel holes contact are being centered by the hub, such as those later-model Tundra/Tacoma alloys pictured above. The flat-faced lug nuts can't really center the wheel with sufficient precision.
This thread kind'a boils things down:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...ic-wheels.html
I've always had the lug-centric steel wheels on the '85 but I noticed when changing a tire on my parents' '98 4runner with 16" alloys that it is hub-centric with the flat-faced lug nuts.
So for replacement wheels, you just have to determine if that particular wheel is lug-centric (beveled lug holes) or hub-centric (square-faced lug holes). For lug-centric wheels, the center hole can be over-sized. For hub-centric wheels, the center hole must fit snugly over the hub projections. Lug nuts that match the wheel (acorn-lug, shank-hub) must be used.
For the balancing machine issue, I read that the lug-centric adapter for hub-centric wheels is used because the balancing machine does not have a properly-fitting hub to center the wheel.
I'm searching for used tires myself. I've found plenty of availability with 15s. I was tempted to try some 16s a while back just so I could run the 235/85R16 size but I changed my mind, partially due to the backspacing finickiness of the solid-front-axle Yotas. Lately, I've found I really like running factory, period-correct wheels.
Toyota uses both hub and lug-centric wheels. Usually, the factory steel wheels are both lug-centric and, to varying degrees, hub-centric and the alloys are hub-centric.
What really defines a lug-centric wheel are the beveled lug holes and corresponding acorn-shaped lug nuts. With the Toyota lug-centric wheels, the hub also centers the wheel somewhat but the lug nuts do the more precise centering.
Wheels with flat, perpendicular surfaces where the lug nuts and wheel holes contact are being centered by the hub, such as those later-model Tundra/Tacoma alloys pictured above. The flat-faced lug nuts can't really center the wheel with sufficient precision.
This thread kind'a boils things down:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...ic-wheels.html
I've always had the lug-centric steel wheels on the '85 but I noticed when changing a tire on my parents' '98 4runner with 16" alloys that it is hub-centric with the flat-faced lug nuts.
So for replacement wheels, you just have to determine if that particular wheel is lug-centric (beveled lug holes) or hub-centric (square-faced lug holes). For lug-centric wheels, the center hole can be over-sized. For hub-centric wheels, the center hole must fit snugly over the hub projections. Lug nuts that match the wheel (acorn-lug, shank-hub) must be used.
For the balancing machine issue, I read that the lug-centric adapter for hub-centric wheels is used because the balancing machine does not have a properly-fitting hub to center the wheel.
I'm searching for used tires myself. I've found plenty of availability with 15s. I was tempted to try some 16s a while back just so I could run the 235/85R16 size but I changed my mind, partially due to the backspacing finickiness of the solid-front-axle Yotas. Lately, I've found I really like running factory, period-correct wheels.
Last edited by YoungFeller; 01-03-2013 at 08:10 PM.