2002 4.3 into 88 4runner
#21
Began working on the cooling system today.
Tru-cool radiator from Speedway and a Flex a lite fan:
Lower Mounts:
I had less room than I thought
About a 1/2" between the water pump and fan:
I went ahead and added some additional bracing on the bottom:
Top mounts, Had to test fit the hood to make sure it was going to close!
Need a upper and lower hose and its done!
(the cooling part anyway. )
Tru-cool radiator from Speedway and a Flex a lite fan:
Lower Mounts:
I had less room than I thought
About a 1/2" between the water pump and fan:
I went ahead and added some additional bracing on the bottom:
Top mounts, Had to test fit the hood to make sure it was going to close!
Need a upper and lower hose and its done!
(the cooling part anyway. )
#23
Trukool radiator and Flexlite fan from Speedway
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedw...hevy,3557.html
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/HEAVY-...-155,1807.html
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedw...hevy,3557.html
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/HEAVY-...-155,1807.html
#25
Though I would post an update since I haven't done so in a while.
I blocked off the holes for the old A/C lines and added a Lokar transmission dipstick:
The Lokar shifter and center console is all finished:
I have started with the fuel system. I removed the fuel pump from the factory module. I tried to save the factory fitting, but is snapped off . Now I don't know if I should just use a clamp and fuel injection hose or try to put a fitting on there and flare it? I would like to run AN lines all the way up to the fuel rail. The Pump is going to be mounted on the frame. I don't know how high of pressure the line would have before the pump? The line needs over 90 PSI after. That is the reason I am changing all of this and running larger line.
I also fabbed up a bracket for the kickdown cable and hooked up the throttle cable:
I am sure I have done more than that, but I have kinda lost track . Going to get after this in the next few weeks!
I blocked off the holes for the old A/C lines and added a Lokar transmission dipstick:
The Lokar shifter and center console is all finished:
I have started with the fuel system. I removed the fuel pump from the factory module. I tried to save the factory fitting, but is snapped off . Now I don't know if I should just use a clamp and fuel injection hose or try to put a fitting on there and flare it? I would like to run AN lines all the way up to the fuel rail. The Pump is going to be mounted on the frame. I don't know how high of pressure the line would have before the pump? The line needs over 90 PSI after. That is the reason I am changing all of this and running larger line.
I also fabbed up a bracket for the kickdown cable and hooked up the throttle cable:
I am sure I have done more than that, but I have kinda lost track . Going to get after this in the next few weeks!
#27
#29
I thinks you done passed me! I have not worked on it much this winter, but want it running by spring.
Everything I have heard is the stock fuel system is not adequate for the Vortec motors. Are you running the stock lines, pump, everything?
#31
Registered User
Yes stock everything, I cut the stock 5/16 line just under the passenger door and transitioned to high pressure rubber 3/8 (running above the tranny up to the fuel rail) by using a compression fitting threaded to a full 3/8 barb being carefull to ream the cut end of the 5/16 so it would mantain its full inside diameter. It is possible that it wouldn't have enough volume at wide open throttle for extended runs but it is giving me 50 psi at the fuel rail so I am going to go with it as my multi port injectors are rated at 24lbs @ 43 psi.
#32
I started getting the fuel system together today. I am using a E8248 pump and a fuel filter from Speedway Motors:
Up tight and out of the way:
Bracket is not very pretty, but it is stout and not going any where!
I removed the factory fuel pump and epoxied a 5/16" fuel line to the fuel sock. I used a 5/16" compression fitting from Earls to adapt it to AN6 fitting. The return is 1/4" compression fitting to AN6:
Up tight and out of the way:
Bracket is not very pretty, but it is stout and not going any where!
I removed the factory fuel pump and epoxied a 5/16" fuel line to the fuel sock. I used a 5/16" compression fitting from Earls to adapt it to AN6 fitting. The return is 1/4" compression fitting to AN6:
#36
I have had this swap done for a year and I highly recommend it! Will probably be swapping to ton's after wheeling season is over this summer. Plenty of power compared to some of the Jeeps I run with that have V8's.
Doesn't wheel too bad either
Doesn't wheel too bad either
#37
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: twin falls idaho
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hey how are your gm motor mounts holding up? i finished this swap about a month n half ago with the same gen 4.3 and had those same mounts with the advanced adapters MM and within a week one mount was toast (rubber tore) i ended up making some urethane bushing style ones to mount to the advanced adapters setup and have been running great since..
if they are fine then great! but i talked to my rep from advanced and he told me to drill a hole through the plates/rubber part of the factory gm one and put a bolt in there and tighten it enough to keep everything together and they will last a long time..
very nice runner by the way!!!
if they are fine then great! but i talked to my rep from advanced and he told me to drill a hole through the plates/rubber part of the factory gm one and put a bolt in there and tighten it enough to keep everything together and they will last a long time..
very nice runner by the way!!!
#38
hey how are your gm motor mounts holding up? i finished this swap about a month n half ago with the same gen 4.3 and had those same mounts with the advanced adapters MM and within a week one mount was toast (rubber tore) i ended up making some urethane bushing style ones to mount to the advanced adapters setup and have been running great since..
if they are fine then great! but i talked to my rep from advanced and he told me to drill a hole through the plates/rubber part of the factory gm one and put a bolt in there and tighten it enough to keep everything together and they will last a long time..
very nice runner by the way!!!
if they are fine then great! but i talked to my rep from advanced and he told me to drill a hole through the plates/rubber part of the factory gm one and put a bolt in there and tighten it enough to keep everything together and they will last a long time..
very nice runner by the way!!!
#39
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Carrol Ohio
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awesome rig and swap thinking of doing the same but i suck powerful bad at the wiring part so prob gona go with a carb option jus dont know yet thanks for all the info keep wheeling bro